save my anubias

[Charney]

I have a beautiful monster anubias that is the center piece of my mixed cichlid tank. Its a 90 gallon lightly planted tank with three to four inch fish which consist of four different types of parrot fish, two oscars, and a balloon green terror (yes this is a grow out tank not the permanent tank). I recently moved and now the tank is in a room that gets lots of natural sun light and the algae growth is out of control especially on the plants. I have been trying to use an API algae product and scraping. It is not working well at all. My anubias looks awful. I just got twelve trap door snails. I am pretty sure they will be dead soon. The fish will not let the snails come out of their shells. Do you have any recommendations? I am considering ordering a bunch of bushy nose plecos, but do not really have the money to ship fish now. Any advise is appreciated thanks.

[WyldFya]

What type of algae is growing on the anubias? I would not use the algaecide.

PS, anubias has an s at the end.

[evercl92]

Algaecides, IME, don't work.
Adding faster-growing stem plants will help - assuming your fish will leave them planted. You could also (or rather) add floating plants to help absorb excess nutrients.
A picture of the algae would be most beneficial.

[Charney]

hope the pictures are all right. I have thought about using floating plants but assumed it would be a pain with the overflow.

[WyldFya]

Looks like your anubias are having a rotting issue. This would not be due to the algae, but rather the rhizome being buried. The rhizome (large stem that all the leaves and roots branch from) needs to be out of the substrate.

[Charney]

they are not in the substrate. The rhizome is firmly attached to pieces of drift wood. If you scrape the greenish/brown stuff off the leaves are healthy underneath. If i wait awhile to do it, the leaves start dying. the other plant picture that I posted with lots of algae is a java fern also rooted to a piece of drift wood. Do not know if this helps or not, but the substrate is sand and I do not use any fertilizers.

[marcello]

argh looks bad i think for save that anubias you must manually scratch with attention off the algae by hand and then put the anubias in a clear tank with fresh water

[Cohazard]

Your tank is out of balance. If you plan to keep it in the spot where it gets plenty of sunlight, you're going to have to make a change to the tank in order to solve the problem.

One solution is to try adding a lot of anacharis. It grows in lower-light, and is known for growing quickly which will absorb nutrients in the water, hopefully choking off the algae.

Another route, is to add DIY co2, ferts, and plants that require more light than the anubias and jfern, such ass wisteria, ambulia, etc...

[WyldFya]

What type of lighting do you have? It is hard to tell from the picture, but it appears to be brown algae, which is actually a sign of lighting that isn't intense enough.

[Cohazard]

Looks like cyanobacteria (BGA) and black brush/beard algae (BBA) to me.

[Charney]

WyldFYa: I have a 48 inch twin fluorescent hood. I believe one bulb is some type a of plant bulb and the other is a normal bulb you would use in one ceiling. Is this not enough light? Before I changed locations the tank literally never had algae.

Cohazard: if i went with buying anacharis how many/much would I need? Would it be a crazy amount? Also are you telling to or not to add fertilizer? I do not use any right now?

[Cohazard]

Cohazard: if i went with buying anacharis how many/much would I need? Would it be a crazy amount? Also are you telling to or not to add fertilizer? I do not use any right now?

Since anacharis absorbs a lot of nutrients, it's a good first step trying to solve the problem.

A few bunches would work (3 or 4, which will have appx 5 stems each), and since they're cheap, it will only set you back $8-10.

If that doesnt reduce the algae over a month or so, I personally would try dosing ferts, but if you don't know how, don't bother unless you research dosing ferts and know what you're doing.

[WyldFya]

Looks like cyanobacteria (BGA) and black brush/beard algae (BBA) to me.Neither of those alga are present in the pictures that I see.

[WyldFya]

WyldFYa: I have a 48 inch twin fluorescent hood. I believe one bulb is some type a of plant bulb and the other is a normal bulb you would use in one ceiling. Is this not enough light? Before I changed locations the tank literally never had algae.

Cohazard: if i went with buying anacharis how many/much would I need? Would it be a crazy amount? Also are you telling to or not to add fertilizer? I do not use any right now?
Brown algae, which is present in the pictures, is a sign of lighting that isn't intense enough.

[WyldFya]

Since anacharis absorbs a lot of nutrients, it's a good first step trying to solve the problem.

A few bunches would work (3 or 4, which will have appx 5 stems each), and since they're cheap, it will only set you back $8-10.

If that doesnt reduce the algae over a month or so, I personally would try dosing ferts, but if you don't know how, don't bother unless you research dosing ferts and know what you're doing.
This may or may not work. With the green algae, it may take an effect, but likely won't. There is an imbalance of nutrients in the tank. Adding more plants may take in the nutrients, or it could make the imbalance worse. I would recommend getting a test kit for phosphates/phosphorus, nitrate, potassium, and if possible iron.

[Cohazard]

Neither of those alga are present in the pictures that I see.

So what type of algae is the green stuff in the second and third picture? I'm not too well versed in algae types, but BGA has a fairly unique look, and those pics point to the growth pattern I've seen in FW tanks that had an infestation.



Brown algae can also be caused by high silicates and nitrates. This is an established system, so it's not the silicates, however, you do have a heavy bioload: 4 parrots, oscars, and gt.

They sound small (4" you mentioned), but those cichlids are big waste producers.

What level are your nitrates at? How much water do you change weekly?

Right now, doing 50% WC's weekly is your best bet.


Here's a pic of cyanobacteria (Blue green algae -BGA-) in an aquarium, does this look like the stuff on your java ferns Charney?

http://www.aquamax.de/Shop/Artikelbilder/Zusatzbilder/Algen%20im%20Aquarium_Blaualgen%20-%20Cyanobacteria_STUG_cyano1.jpg



HTH

[WyldFya]

The alga in the second and third pics looks like plain green algae. Brown alga is rarely caused by high nitrates, due to the growth of higher order alga.

[bloodshed]

The algae In your tank has nothing to do with the intensity of the lighting. Anubis grows better in low light conditions. The fastest way to get rid of that algae, is a phosphate remover. If your fish are not to big you could also use otto cats or rubber plecos. they will help control the algae on the leaves of the anubis. If you want to try more plants, you could use jungle val. It also likes low light and eat phosphates likes crazy.

[Charney]

I just checked my nitrates. First time I have checked in a while and I was surprised (probably shouldn't be I had exams the last couple of weeks so the tank was not exactly a priority) to see they were pushing 25 mg/l. I normally do ~40% water changes. The water changes happen very regulary till about two weeks before an exam. The algae in the picture does not look anything like the algae I have.
I have always really liked jungle val, how many of them would I need for my 90 to help control phosphates. I always thought they were a moderate to high light plant.

[WyldFya]

The algae In your tank has nothing to do with the intensity of the lighting. Anubis grows better in low light conditions. The fastest way to get rid of that algae, is a phosphate remover. If your fish are not to big you could also use otto cats or rubber plecos. they will help control the algae on the leaves of the anubis. If you want to try more plants, you could use jungle val. It also likes low light and eat phosphates likes crazy.
Brown algae is not caused by excess phosphates, and is caused by inadequate intensity of lighting, and silicates. You may want to research what you are talking about before making suggestions.

[WyldFya]

I just checked my nitrates. First time I have checked in a while and I was surprised (probably shouldn't be I had exams the last couple of weeks so the tank was not exactly a priority) to see they were pushing 25 mg/l. I normally do ~40% water changes. The water changes happen very regulary till about two weeks before an exam. The algae in the picture does not look anything like the algae I have.
I have always really liked jungle val, how many of them would I need for my 90 to help control phosphates. I always thought they were a moderate to high light plant.
The bigger issue you should look at is your actual nutrient levels. Phosphates aren't going to be the cause of either brown or green algae. Also, many municipals have phosphates in the water, and when doing water changes you can actually damage your balance of nutrients more. What kind of substrate do you have.

[Charney]

i have 50 pounds of pool filter sand, two medium sized peices of drift wood with the anubias on it, one large piece of drift wood with a java fern and a pile of lava/tuffa rocks.

[guppyangelram]

I have a beautiful monster anubias that is the center piece of my mixed cichlid tank. Its a 90 gallon lightly planted tank with three to four inch fish which consist of four different types of parrot fish, two oscars, and a balloon green terror (yes this is a grow out tank not the permanent tank). I recently moved and now the tank is in a room that gets lots of natural sun light and the algae growth is out of control especially on the plants. I have been trying to use an API algae product and scraping. It is not working well at all. My anubias looks awful. I just got twelve trap door snails. I am pretty sure they will be dead soon. The fish will not let the snails come out of their shells. Do you have any recommendations? I am considering ordering a bunch of bushy nose plecos, but do not really have the money to ship fish now. Any advise is appreciated thanks.

I think the problem is very simple. You moved the tank to a area that gets lots of light! Light and nutrients from "large" messy cichlids = algae.Period.
Yes it sounds to me like it's out of balance.It it were me i would try to limit lighting to only a few hours a day and cut the feeding of fish back and add lots of hornwort,any larger Val species,duck weed and any other floating plant i could find and try to find a clean up crew that can live with your other fish. Adult Bristle nose Pleco ect? After the algae levels out you can remove some of the additional plants if you don't like them.Anubias can live thru a lot and if it's not rotting and stays firm it's fine, algae and all.Anubias will live in very low light but will thrive with higher light.My 2 cents.
Best Wishes :)

[WyldFya]

I think the problem is very simple. You moved the tank to a area that gets lots of light! Light and nutrients from "large" messy cichlids = algae.Period.
Yes it sounds to me like it's out of balance.It it were me i would try to limit lighting to only a few hours a day and cut the feeding of fish back and add lots of hornwort,any larger Val species,duck weed and any other floating plant i could find and try to find a clean up crew that can live with your other fish. Adult Bristle nose Pleco ect? After the algae levels out you can remove some of the additional plants if you don't like them.Anubias can live thru a lot and if it's not rotting and stays firm it's fine, algae and all.Anubias will live in very low light but will thrive with higher light.My 2 cents.
Best Wishes :)
Adding things just because you think they will solve a problem is never a good choice. It is always better to find the problem and fix that rather than adding things blindly. In the case of green algae, it will be present in any planted tank, so long as the tank is healthy enough to grow plants. For brown algae, however, it is not going to be caused by too much light. It like some low light plants cannot handle moderate lighting, and will cease to grow.

[guppyangelram]

Adding things just because you think they will solve a problem is never a good choice. It is always better to find the problem and fix that rather than adding things blindly. In the case of green algae, it will be present in any planted tank, so long as the tank is healthy enough to grow plants. For brown algae, however, it is not going to be caused by too much light. It like some low light plants cannot handle moderate lighting, and will cease to grow.
The appointed expert has spoken! I will bow out

[Charney]

I was looking at the tank and thinking back to the algae progression. There defiantly is brown algae in the tank but I would say the majority of the algae especially on the class as been green. Do not know if that helps

[WyldFya]

Green algae in a planted tank is unfortunately inevitable. It is a sign that the parameters are right for growing plants. So it isn't a bad thing, but it isn't the best looking. I find the only fish that is really effective at removal of green algae is otocinclus. Even bristlenose can't keep up with this.

[dafrimpster]

I would try SeaChem Excel. Start with a mild dose and go from there. The picture sure looks like some BBA is present but hard to tell in blurry pics. If you want more info on the Excel method go to PLantedtank.net or one of the other aquatic plant forums and do a search for excel. This might fix your problem. If it returns you will need to identify the source and eliminate it. If it doesn't return maybe this is a result of the tank move causing a temporary imbalance in your system

[Cohazard]

I think the problem is very simple. You moved the tank to a area that gets lots of light! Light and nutrients from "large" messy cichlids = algae.Period.
Yes it sounds to me like it's out of balance.It it were me i would try to limit lighting to only a few hours a day and cut the feeding of fish back and add lots of hornwort,any larger Val species,duck weed and any other floating plant i could find and try to find a clean up crew that can live with your other fish. Adult Bristle nose Pleco ect? After the algae levels out you can remove some of the additional plants if you don't like them.Anubias can live thru a lot and if it's not rotting and stays firm it's fine, algae and all.Anubias will live in very low light but will thrive with higher light.My 2 cents.
Best Wishes :)



That's good and sound advice. One of the many routes one could go to fix the problem. There is no 'one' answer to this problem.



The bigger issue you should look at is your actual nutrient levels. Phosphates aren't going to be the cause of either brown or green algae. Also, many municipals have phosphates in the water, and when doing water changes you can actually damage your balance of nutrients more. What kind of substrate do you have.

So, if it isn't phosphates, and you put down my advice that it's high nitrates (which I made an educated guess that they were high, before he even told us he had high nitrates/ plus, yes, nitrates do cause algae, including brown and green), and potassium does not cause algae (that covers the macros N,P,K), what nutrients do you think is causing the problem?

At first I thought it might be silicates from the sand, but this is an established system that did not have a brown algae problem prior to the move, and the lighting level has stayed the same.

[Charney]

Cohazard you reminded me of something I did not mention. When I moved the tank I switched from very fine gravel to this pool filter sand. Sorry I did not include that earlier you just brought it to my attention. Everything else in the tank stayed the same. There has never been any detectable ammonia and the pH is ~7.2. Also the tank was moved around the end of July.

[WyldFya]

That's good and sound advice. One of the many routes one could go to fix the problem. There is no 'one' answer to this problem.





So, if it isn't phosphates, and you put down my advice that it's high nitrates (which I made an educated guess that they were high, before he even told us he had high nitrates/ plus, yes, nitrates do cause algae, including brown and green), and potassium does not cause algae (that covers the macros N,P,K), what nutrients do you think is causing the problem?

At first I thought it might be silicates from the sand, but this is an established system that did not have a brown algae problem prior to the move, and the lighting level has stayed the same.

Nitrates do not commonly cause brown algae. Your information is not accurate, and needed light shed on it. Nitrates cause many higher order alga, but not brown alga. The two primary reasons for brown algae is one, inadequate lighting, and two silicates. He has now shed the light that with his sand addition, the truth has come out. It is silicates in the water. Nitrates cause many alga, but brown is not one of them. The common alga seen in planted tanks that are caused by excessive nitrogen in the water are: green, beard, hair and thread.

[WyldFya]

Cohazard you reminded me of something I did not mention. When I moved the tank I switched from very fine gravel to this pool filter sand. Sorry I did not include that earlier you just brought it to my attention. Everything else in the tank stayed the same. There has never been any detectable ammonia and the pH is ~7.2. Also the tank was moved around the end of July.
The silicates from the pool filter sand would be the cause of the brown algae. To fix this problem, the easiest way would be to either add another light strip, or increase the lighting type to PC, or HO T5. With the light upgrade though, you will fight more alga problems.

[Charney]

Everyone thank you for all the help. Do you recommend a particular bulb to use? I cannot fit another fixture on my tank so I will have to switch the bulbs. Will this solution help out my anubias or will the additional algae problems to come still hurt the plant? If you don't mind could you explain how the additional light takes care of the silicates. Also now that I know val can live at a lower light requirement I think I am going to pick some up for my tank.

[WyldFya]

Changing the bulbs may help, but that would only be if your current bulbs are older than 6 months. Many bulbs lose intensity over time, for standard fluorescent bulbs that time is usually 6-12 months. Higher lighting will not fix your silicate problem, but it will fix your brown algae problem. Brown algae, like low light exclusive plants (java fern), cannot stand lighting above a certain point. Even with ideal water parameters, the light will cause the algae to cease growing, and die off.

[Cohazard]

I'm still confused as to why this problem would suddenly appear, just because he moved the tank? Same lighting, same sand substrate, old setup.

From what I've read, the silicates that the substrate and glass leaches early in the setup of an aquarium, dissipates over time. Once the ratio of silicates to phosphates goes away so do the diatoms.

[WyldFya]

He added the sand during the move. So his silicate levels haven't been able to come down at all yet.

[Cohazard]

ah I just caught his last post. yeah, it's definitely silicates causing the brown algae, and nitrates causing the green. :)

[roombo]

Would Purigen or Pura Complete help? I have the same problem