View Full Version : Sharks and Metal
epicentyr2
02-17-2006, 10:18 PM
I am going to build a large tank 12x5x5ft. I want to make a steel angle iron cage and line the inside with 2 layers of 3/4 in plywood, and then fiberglass the wood. My question is will the metal cage effect the sharks? I know sharks are very sensitive to magnetic and electrical fields. There will be no contact between the water and the metal cage.
thanks
Derek
(first post, Do I need 5 posts to view pictures?)
DeLgAdO
02-17-2006, 10:28 PM
I am going to build a large tank 12x5x5ft. I want to make a steel angle iron cage and line the inside with 2 layers of 3/4 in plywood, and then fiberglass the wood. My question is will the metal cage effect the sharks? I know sharks are very sensitive to magnetic and electrical fields. There will be no contact between the water and the metal cage.
thanks
Derek
(first post, Do I need 5 posts to view pictures?)
Welcome to MFK Derek!!
this thread is very interesting, id like to know this myself.
and yes you need 5 post to preview pics, if you dont see pics after your 5posts just wait it out, the server updates every half hour i believe.
ewurm
02-17-2006, 10:50 PM
The metal shouldn't produce any significant electromagnetic fields and probably won't be a problem if the metal NEVER touches the water, however, any tank water that splashes onto the metal will cause it to rust at a very high rate and could poison the fish if it runs back into the tank. I suggest coating the metal with an aquarium approved enamel to prevent this.
the metal shouldn´t be the problem,compared to all the electromagnetic fields produced by electric pumps,skimmers,light etc.
but a lot of public aquariums show,that sharks can adopt to this.
Ornatapinnis
02-18-2006, 9:51 AM
THis won't be a problem. Put lot's of effort into keeping salt spray and salt creep from coming in contact with the frame so it doesn't rust. I have a customer with a very similar set up. It's a 2" box steel frame with a plywood tank inside it. We had the frame powder coated before putting the aquarium inside it, has been rust free for about 5 years now.
As per concerns about electrical issues, put a simple titanium grounding probe inside the aquarium and attach the wire off it to the ground on your electrical outlet, this will terminate most the electricity in your tank. Grounding the metal frame is a good idea too.
Joel
Zoodiver
02-18-2006, 10:38 AM
I'm going to go against the flow and say the metal will be a problem. A concrete barrier (vs the wooden edge) would be much better, but even with a good thick layer I've seen sharks with problems. A few institutions have seen major problems and were forced to remove animals due to the inability of the sharks to navigate the walls of the exhibit in areas of high metal concentration. When we biult the bull shark tank at Dallas World, we had to re-do the thickness of the walls after the original poor for this very reason. If you do use metal as the main support structure, make sure it is well grounded and as far away from the water as possible.
Some shark species are more sensative to this issue than others. What type are you planning on getting?
Ornatapinnis
02-18-2006, 10:52 AM
A point I forgot to mention is that many sharks have problems with corners too.
A box type aquariums might not be the best choice for some sharks...
Zoodiver
02-18-2006, 6:16 PM
A point I forgot to mention is that many sharks have problems with corners too.
A box type aquariums might not be the best choice for some sharks...
I couldn't agree more!
water_baby83
02-18-2006, 10:38 PM
the metal shouldn´t be the problem,compared to all the electromagnetic fields produced by electric pumps,skimmers,light etc.
but a lot of public aquariums show,that sharks can adopt to this.
This has some truth to it, however, commercial size aquariums are far more complex than your every day home aquarium. All electronic additions are housed seperatly from the aquarium its self, and are concealed typically in several layers of cement (I.e, a control room). They distance as much equiptment from the water as possible, therefore, only a small percent of the actual electro - fields are in contact with the livestock. I wouldn't recommend trying to duplicate this unless you have a seasoned aquatic contractor, and lots of $$. Your safest bet is to steer clear of metal as much as you can. I agree with zoodiver on grounding any and all metal you use, and also suggest that if you use metal for support beams in your cement, that you opt for a specially coated rod. Usually they coat them in one or more types of rubber, which will also help ground them out. These can be difficult to find in some areas, as they are usually "special orders", but you could check with any local contractor for advice. This link is one of many I am sure who regularly produce these products. You may want to check it out. He also takes custom orders based off of your design plans. Hope this helps some.
http://changshengmetal.en.alibaba.com (http://changshengmetal.en.alibaba.com/)
--EMI
water_baby83
02-18-2006, 10:53 PM
OK, that last one game me a headache trying to navigate it, here are a few more direct suppliers.
www.AlltheIndustrials.com (http://www.alltheindustrials.com/)
www.metcoat.com (http://www.metcoat.com/)
Oh yeah, on the first web adress from my last post, you may have to enter it into your adress bar, it gave me problems.:p Plus once I looked at it more, it was way too confusing, but maybe that's just me??:) Anywho, try these ones instead.
--EMI
ewurm
02-18-2006, 11:11 PM
The apex predatory and king of the ocean doesn't understand the concept of a corner? :ROFL: You are totally right though...I have never seen a square shark tank.
as long as the shark is a NON obligatory ram ventilator (eppaulett, marble, bamboo etc.) corners arent a problem. being a ram ventilator (black tip for ex.) means that they always have to be moving to push water through the gills and if they stop they can die. NON obligate ram ventilator=corners, obligate ram ventilators= no corners. I hope this makes sense.
ps- check the october2005 Tropical fish hobbyist article on pg. 106 called Shark Aquarium Ethics
basically if your shark is a obligate than corners can disrupt their swimming patterns enough to eventually kill them
Zoodiver
02-19-2006, 10:32 AM
I hope this makes sense.
That was very well worded.
I've worked alot with bamboo sharks in metal framed enclosures before and they seem to do well with it. Most were in a 15,000 gallon done with a rebar frame over concrete and wire mesh to support the concrete rock work. That may be a species to look into if you are going to go with it.
epicentyr2
02-21-2006, 10:57 PM
Wow!! Thanks for all of the replies. I have been away from the forums for a couple days and this is great to return to. (I was closing the big deals that make me able to feed my addiction. ) I plan on keeping 1 bonetthead, 1 atlantic sharpnose, and a couple of rescue sharks from distressed keepers when needed (no nurse or black tip reefs), also hopefully a breeding pair of blue dot rays. I want the steel frame to enable the moving of the tank for sale when I sell the house. A wood frame would be too cumbersome and weak to move.
Don4921
02-22-2006, 10:59 AM
show us some pics when it is done!
Zoodiver
02-22-2006, 12:54 PM
In the original post, you mention 12' x 5' x 5'.....that's too small for sharpnose or black tips.
Maybe a bonnet, as long as it's shaped correctly.
krj-1168
08-27-2006, 1:24 AM
In the original post, you mention 12' x 5' x 5'.....that's too small for sharpnose or black tips.
Maybe a bonnet, as long as it's shaped correctly.
Actually - NOT.
First the tank is too small for an adult bonnethead - which can reach 4-4.5ft in length. and given Scott Micheal's rule of the tank width should be at least 1.5x the length of the adult shark(for free-swimmers) - the tank would too narrow.
Actually for Ram Ventilators like Sharpnose & Bonnetheads - the tank's width should be at least 2x max length of the adult shark. And the tank should be at least 4-5x the max adult length of shark.
So to truely make this tank work for a single Bonnethead - it would need to be an oval tank that is at least 18ft long x 9 ft wide(or about 5,400 gallons - with a 5 ft depth).
For the Atlantic Sharpnose - would have to be an oval tank - at least 16ft long x 8 ft wide(about 4,250) - large enough for 2 Atlantic sharpnose.
Actually the best free-swimming shark for the tank - at it present dimensions - is a species of smoothhound. Because smoothhounds don't need to swim 100% of the time. And most smoothhounds average about 3-3.5ft long.