After seeing VLDesign's and JohnG's successful builds based on my stacked lumber method, I got to thinking that smaller tanks could be done with the same design. 2x6s like mine and 2x4s like their builds are a bit much for smaller tanks though. Soon my tank will be added to the successful column after I coat it with Max ACR.
Available to most anyone are 1x2s which would work perfectly for this method. Another option would be 2x3s which I've found at both Lowe's and Home Depot.
JohnG's floor design is by far the best option in regard to strength and can be adapted easily by doing nothing more than using whichever smaller lumber size you need.
Use appropriately sized (length) deck screws and you're good to go.
As JohnG and VLDesign found success with just screwing the lumber down, it is an option if you want a little less labor intensive quick build. For me, I'll spend the extra effort to use Liquid Nails heavy duty construction adhesive between the boards. It's not really necessary when attaching the plywood sheathing, but it doesn't hurt. Also, instead of using Bondo, Liquid Nails can be used to fill holes, nail heads, etc. and doesn't crumble or crush over time. It's easy to work with too.
The window frame that JohnG used or the inset frame that I used are both good options for stabilizing the window.
Be sure to put in your cut out areas, so your bulkheads only have to go through your plywood sheathing.
Corner bracing that works with the outward pressure on the tank walls is my preference, but depending on your design you may go with just a straight brace alone or a combination of both as needed.
The key to the whole stacked lumber method is in the overlapping boards in the corners which is essentially a box joint. Box joints are tried and true strong woodworking joins as shown below.
Corner
Completed Box
Possibilities?
Max ACR is what I'll be using and is what JohnG and VLDesign have had great success with. Sweetwater epoxy paint is the simplest solution for a top coat color, but Pond Coat could be used as well.
Let's see some smaller builds out there using the stacked lumber method!
Available to most anyone are 1x2s which would work perfectly for this method. Another option would be 2x3s which I've found at both Lowe's and Home Depot.
JohnG's floor design is by far the best option in regard to strength and can be adapted easily by doing nothing more than using whichever smaller lumber size you need.
Use appropriately sized (length) deck screws and you're good to go.
As JohnG and VLDesign found success with just screwing the lumber down, it is an option if you want a little less labor intensive quick build. For me, I'll spend the extra effort to use Liquid Nails heavy duty construction adhesive between the boards. It's not really necessary when attaching the plywood sheathing, but it doesn't hurt. Also, instead of using Bondo, Liquid Nails can be used to fill holes, nail heads, etc. and doesn't crumble or crush over time. It's easy to work with too.
The window frame that JohnG used or the inset frame that I used are both good options for stabilizing the window.
Be sure to put in your cut out areas, so your bulkheads only have to go through your plywood sheathing.
Corner bracing that works with the outward pressure on the tank walls is my preference, but depending on your design you may go with just a straight brace alone or a combination of both as needed.
The key to the whole stacked lumber method is in the overlapping boards in the corners which is essentially a box joint. Box joints are tried and true strong woodworking joins as shown below.
Corner
Completed Box
Possibilities?
Max ACR is what I'll be using and is what JohnG and VLDesign have had great success with. Sweetwater epoxy paint is the simplest solution for a top coat color, but Pond Coat could be used as well.
Let's see some smaller builds out there using the stacked lumber method!