Ok so I have been seeing all the cool DIY tanks on this forum and I really want to do a 270 that's 72Lx36Hx24W. Now here is my questions: Can I use 3/4" plywood, can it have a veneer, how thick should the glass be, can lexan glass, and what's a good brand of the liquid rubber to coat the plywood. Thank you this post is just so I could get a good "direction" on what I have to buy and now I can get a good idea on the price, don't worry I will fill you guys in the build when/if I do it.
need some help before build.
- Thread starter fkabbage
- Start date
You'll be alot better off to stay under 30 inches tall for your first build.. there is ALOT less water pressure. If you go 36 inches high your glass will need to be 3/4 thick... if the height is under 30 you'll be ok with 1/2 glass and if its under 24 high you'll be ok with 3/8.
As for the plywood.. 3/4 ply will be fine for a tank under 30 inches as well. As long as you put top bracing on the tank ti keep the walls from bowing.
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As for the plywood.. 3/4 ply will be fine for a tank under 30 inches as well. As long as you put top bracing on the tank ti keep the walls from bowing.
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well in that case i am going to do a 72x28x24, that sound better. Thank you for taking your time to answer my question
If it were me with that piece of acrylic.... id do 24 tall and 30-36 front to back all the water pressure is built up from the height of the tank not the footprint if you get what I mean? There is a calculator for glass thickness in the sticky for this thread but I would say. 1/2 inch cell cast acrylic would hold just fine for up to 24... maybe 26 inched tall. Just my opinion though, check the calculator
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3/4" plywood is fine assuming it's properly supported for the height of tank you plan to build. I agree with the other poster and build it shorter if you can. Somewhere around 30" high means the glass/acrylic/polycarbonate price doubles. You'd have to play with a calculator and then price your local options to be sure.
The plywood can have a veneer.
I don't typically comment on glass/acrylic/polycarbonate thickness.
Lexan and other types of polycarbonate have been used in aquaria. My recommendation is to research the exact product you're considering and to make sure it's not a cheap import "knock-off" brand from China.
Why are you considering "Lexan"? Do you have access to some cheap or free panels?
I've never used a rubberized product to seal a plywood tank. When you shop for one pay attention to the percent solids and the recommended dry mil thickness. Some of these products are very low in solids and need to be applied pretty thick so they can get expensive despite their per gallon cost.
The plywood can have a veneer.
I don't typically comment on glass/acrylic/polycarbonate thickness.
Lexan and other types of polycarbonate have been used in aquaria. My recommendation is to research the exact product you're considering and to make sure it's not a cheap import "knock-off" brand from China.
Why are you considering "Lexan"? Do you have access to some cheap or free panels?
I've never used a rubberized product to seal a plywood tank. When you shop for one pay attention to the percent solids and the recommended dry mil thickness. Some of these products are very low in solids and need to be applied pretty thick so they can get expensive despite their per gallon cost.
I would personally just swap the last 2 dimensions and make it 72Lx24Hx36W, would make for an awesome footprint and give the fish more room to move front to back! 3/4 plywood would be fine just brace the top if the walls are going to be unsupported, kinda like a typical acrylic tank would have. For a good sealent look into Max ACR, others have used it and I can't say enough good things about it, worked wonderfully for my build. It is 100% solids, worked great with fiberglass, thinned out nicely with alcohol for the first coat which allowed it to absorb right into the plywood to get that initial "bite" and was very easy to apply with a solvent based roller, no different than painting a wall. GL with your build!
