View Full Version : Educating MFK on Africans!
First off: :p
Second off: These are Africans of some sort or another I will post basic info on them along with a picture, and I will post however many I feel at a time, I will try to update it at least once a week with new Africnas! [Info obtained from gcca (http://gcca.net/index.htm) and Cichlid Index (http://www.tropheus.info/riftlakes/index.html)
also Species Summary (http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=2249) also pictres are taken from image searchs and a few from Malawi Cichlid Home Pg. (www.malawicichlidhomepage.com) along with my own knowledge! =) ] Most of the credit should go to some of these pages and the people who put them together. As for pics I dont take the credit off of them but aol doesnt always let me link to the site they are from which is why I say aol search images.
Third off: This is for all you people that need more info on Africans, maybe you can learn some basic info on here. Esp. you African haters :D Enjoy.
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Labidochromis caeruleus
General:
Labidochromis caeruleus is a very popular cichlid! The "lemon yellow" variety, shown above, has secured a place in the cichlid hobby because of its bright yellow color. The fish is also available in a blue-white form, but it is rarely seen. Labidochromis caeruleus is a maternal mouthbrooder.
This fish is attractive, easy to keep and easy to breed. Compared to many mbuna species, it is not very aggressive. These positive traits all add up to a great fish!
Unlike most Malawian cichlids, both the males and the females are very attractive. The dominant male in the group will generally be a brighter yellow and have a glossier, darker and more prominently-black edged dorsal fin.
Habitat:
Labidochromis caeruleus is endemic to Lake Malawi (Africa) and is found in two distinct biotopes; rocky shorelines and in Valisneria (plant) beds. They are found at depths of 6 to 120 feet. In the wild, they have been observed feeding on a variety of invertebrates and snails.
Care:
Labidochromis caeruleus likes hard alkaline water around 76-82 degrees, although they will tolerate slightly higher or lower temperatures. I have kept and bred them in Chicago water with no problems at all. Regular partial water changes are essential to the well-being of the fish. Keeping them with other moderately aggressive Malawian cichlids presents no problems. Recommended tank size for five adults would be a 30 gallon-long tank or larger.
Feeding:
You can feed Labidochromis caeruleus just about anything. A good quality flake food and cichlid pellets occasionally supplemented by frozen foods will work well. Include a good vegetable flake such as HBH Graze.
Breeding:
Labidochromis caeruleus is one of the easiest mouthbrooders to breed. I recommend that you purchase five or six juvenile fish and raise them up. They will breed at six months of age or about 1-1/2 inches in length.
Breeding occurs in the typical mbuna fashion, so provide a piece of slate or other smooth surface for the "act". After breeding, I remove the female to a well-planted "maternity" tank.
Females are generally good "holders" and will refuse food for up to four weeks. Because going for food for so long can critically weaken the female, I generally strip the eggs from the fish. At two weeks, the babies will be at the "heads and tails" stage. After three weeks, the babies are nearly fully formed. My preference is to strip 12–14 days and bubble them in a commerical egg tumbler.
Small females will produce 10 to 15 babies. Larger, fully-grown females will have 25 to 30.
Info: gcca (http://gcca.net/index.htm)
Melanochromis Chipokae
General:
Melanochromis chipokae is an attractive Malawian mouthbrooder that exhibits clear sexual dimorphism. Males have a dark grey-blue body color with electric blue highlights to the flanks. Females are just as attractive, exhibiting a bright yellow belly, orange tail and alternating tan and brown stripes that extend into the dorsal fin. (See picture of mouthbrooding female at right) First typed by Johnson in 1975, this fish is often sold under the name Pseudotropheus chipokae.
In the areas where populations exist, it is a common fish indicating evolutionary success.
Melanochromis chipokae is popular aquarium fish, but may not be the best choice for beginners. While it generally stays pretty small, it is a very aggressive fish. Some sites report that aquarium specimens reach 6 inches in captivity, but I have never seen one this big.
Females of both species are nearly impossible to tell apart. My guess is that auratus and chipokae would interbreed if given a chance!
Care:
Melanochromis chipokae is not a recommended fish for the beginner. Although it is hardy, the aggressive nature of this species makes it challenging to keep. Both males and females are aggressive, even at the juvenile stage. I have seen inch long fry fighting! Alpha males quickly kill off rivals and won't hesitate to beat on any females which "aren't in the mood."
In a mixed tank, these fish will quickly take over the lead position in the tank. Despite their small size, they can cause a lot of stress and damage to other fish. Beware!
Despite these dire warnings, by employing the right strategy, this fish can be easily kept and bred. Provide plenty of cover for sub-dominant individuals and females. The tank for these fish should be full of caves, slates, flower pots, plastic plants and anything else you can find to disturb the sight lines of the alpha male and provide cover. Extend the rockwork vertically at least halfway up the tank. Provide a PVC anchored near the water line for stressed individuals.
Feeding:
Melanochromis chipokae is easy to feed. In the lake it is a true omnivore. Reports have found filmentous algae, zooplankton and cichlid fry in the stomachs of wild caught individuals. Provide a good quality cichlid flake and spirulina flake.
Breeding:
Melanochromis chipokae isn't hard to breed, but you must provide shelter for the female. Provide a flat slate near the preferred "home" of the alpha male in the tank. When the female is ripe and ready, she will approach the male. After spawning, if your tank is stuffed with enough rock, she will retreat and hold onto the eggs for about 14 days.
Young females tend not to be reliable holders, mostly due to male aggression. After a couple of spawns, the females get smarter about hiding and become good holders in my opinion. I have netted out brooding females, bagged them, and delivered them with no loss of eggs.
Brood sizes are relatively small-- about 12-18 eggs. I have stripped females both early (after two days) and later (after 10 days) with good success. I fed the fry on freshly hatched baby brine shrimp and transitioned them at two weeks to flake food with no problems. The fry grow fast and at 3 to 4 weeks take on the coloration of the adult female.
Info: gcca (http://gcca.net/index.htm)
Oreochromis mossambicus "the mozambique mouthbrooder"
General:
Oreochromis mossambicus does make a fine aquarium fish. It's easy to care for, grows quickly and is interesting to breed. The wild type is a dull greenish fish, but a number of interesting color varieties such as the gold, orange and red are available to liven up your tank.
If you've ever had Tilapia at your favorite seafood restaurant, Oreochromis mossambicus is the fish you ate! Interestingly, many of the color varieties were bred specifically to make them more palatable to consumers! Apparently, an orange fish makes folks think of Red Snapper. Go figure!
Many of the characteristics that make this a good farm fish, make it a terrible nuisance when populations become feral. Please do not release aquarium specimens in the wild!
Why does Oreochromis mossambicus so easily beat out native fish? Here's why:
It eats just about anything including algae and detritus thus exploiting a food resource not used by most native fishes. Oreochromis mossambicus will happily switch from vegetable to animal sources. It's not picky!
It can live just about anywhere including ponds, reservoirs, drainage ditches, riverine environments, even brackish water.
It's tough! Oreochromis mossambicus can tolerate a wide range of water temperatures from 40F to 104F, low oxygen levels, poor water quality and pollution.
It's a prolific mouthbrooder! Broods can be in the hundreds and females can carry several broods a year.
It will breed even in poor conditions. Even when food is low or nearly unavailable, this fish will continue to breed.
It gets big (1.5 lbs and may exceed 15 inches long) but breeds young at only two inches.
Care:
Oreochromis mossambicus is easy to keep . . . when young. You can abuse it, frankly, and it will survive. That said, it is a messy eater, so frequent water changes are necessary if you want optimal growth.
And grow they will! This is a fast-growing fish.
However, when this fish gets bigger, it can get increasingly aggressive.
Feeding:
This fish will eat anything. Flake, pellets, zucchini, algae wafers . . . you name it! They are greedy, too. They will fill up their buccal cavities (males and females) and carry around any food they can't eat right away.
Breeding:
Like most African cichlids, Oreochromis mossambicus is a maternal mouthbrooder. This fish is easy to breed. It's the 'convict' of the mouthbrooder set. It is hard to tell the males from the females, but the fish seem to figure it out on their own.
This fish pretty much breeds itself. Put five to six fish in a forty gallon or larger tank and leave them alone. They will breed at eight to nine months.
Females drop eggs in a nest constructed by the male. Interestingly, in contrast to most Haps, the eggs are fertilized by the male before the female takes them up in her mouth. The eggs are incubated for 3 to 5 days. Young fry remain in the female’s mouth for another ten to fourteen days.
Realizing that I wanted to breed this fish before it got too big, I stripped a young female's second brood shortly after the eggs were laid. This litle two inch fish had over sixty small 3/32" diameter eggs. I placed these eggs in a commercial egg tumbler with some Acriflavine Plus (anti-fungal) at 80F and performed daily 50% water changes replacing the anti-fungal as necessary. Eleven days later I had over 30 babies left which was plenty!
The young fry are able to eat newly hatched baby brine shrimp immediately. After one week, I switched them to crushed flake food and they grew rapidly.
Info: gcca (http://gcca.net/index.htm)
Aulonocara walteri
General:
Aulonocara walteri is a moutbrooding, Malawian cichlid first typed by Konings in 1990. Technically, this fish does not have full nomenclature yet, so I probably should call it Aulonocara sp. "walteri".
Aulonocara walteri is typical of other Malawian peacocks. Brightly colored males with a lot of blue and drab, barred females. The common name, "Blue Face Peacock", is appropriate as males have the greatest concentration of color on the head. In preparation for breeding, males become a deeper blue and the color extends further down the body. Some male Aulocara walteri also exhibit yellow or tan coloration on their upper flanks.
Males grow to over 4 inches. Females top out at slightly over 3 inches.
Habitat:
Aulonocara walteri is found near Likoma Island in Lake Malawi. Although most of the jacobfreibergei group are rock dwellers found at 15M and below, this fish has been found in as little as 3 meters of water. They are usually found at the intersection of sandy and rocky habitats.
Care:
Aulonocara walteri is easy to keep. Provide a sand or soft gravel substrate and rockwork simulating caves.
As always, regular water changes are important. I suggest at least a 30% water change every other week. In my case, I do about 50% weekly.
Males can be aggressive to each to other, so an aquarium of four feet or longer is recommended if you have a large group of fish.
Aulonocara should not be kept with more aggressive mbuna such as Pseudotropheus or Metriaclima species. Of course, only one Aulonocara species per tank . . . they will interbreed!
I have successfully kept Aulonocara with a mildly-disposed Tanganyikans such as the Brichardi types.
Feeding:
Aulonocara walteri is easy to feed and accepts a wide variety of foods. I fed spirulina flakes, earthworm flakes, cichlid flakes and frozen mysis shrimp. I believe offering a variety of foods is of benefit to these fish.
In the wild, Aulonocara hover over the sand and make use of sensory pits located on the lower snouth to detect invertebrates moving in the sand. Once they detect movement, a fast plunge into the sand rewards this fish with a tasty snack. In the aquarium, you can observe this behavior if you provide a sand substrate.
Breeding:
Aulonocara walteri is easy to breed. For best results, I suggest a species tank. Supply one male and several females. In my case, I had one male and four females. Provide a flat piece of stone (slate is good) for the breeding site.
I should admit that I broke the "species" rule due to lack of tank space. I kept adult Aulonocara walteri in a 90-gallon tank with some juvenile Metriaclima hajormaylandia. The Aulonocara walteri were quite a bit bigger, so it wasn't a problem.
Males will display to females and draw them to the breeding site where breeding ensues in typical Aulonocara fashion. Brood sizes are in the 20-30 range.
In my experience, females are very good holders, successfully holding the fry to term. I stripped fry at 18 days and they had just a bit of a yolk sack remaining. The babies will take freshly hatched baby brine shrimp immediately.
The fry grow fast and have the drab coloration of the females until about four months of age.
gcca (http://gcca.net/index.htm)
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 2:08 AM
Good info!
A very good guide for the novice african cichlid hobbyist.
Thanks :clap :clap :clap
Peanut_Power
10-19-2005, 2:11 AM
So how much of this is cut and paste? Either way its rather organized....probably would be a good read if i could find the effort to keep my attention span directed towards it too.....but alas.....I lost interest quickly! Good job though Ash! Impressive indeedy! Too bad there aren't any african pike cichlids eh? *sigh*
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 2:15 AM
So how much of this is cut and paste? Either way its rather organized....probably would be a good read if i could find the effort to keep my attention span directed towards it too.....but alas....i got bored after I read the little ner** at the beginnin.....
well... its the thought tt counts... finding good info requires effort too... :grinyes:
I'll get to them, there are alot of Africans to go through and I am getting sleepie!
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 2:20 AM
I'll get to them, there are alot of Africans to go through and I am getting sleepie!
coffee quick.... coffee!! :grinyes:
coffee quick.... coffee!! :grinyes:
haha yah right I got some mid terms to study for, classes to attend, them some work.. more like SLEEP then coffee!!
Peanut_Power
10-19-2005, 2:23 AM
There AREN'T any African pike cichlids....lol....they are only South American.....although there are a few that get pretty close to Central America.
You should throw in big words Ash, keep the readers at the edge of their seats. Like....'scales shimmerin like opaque emeralds, *insert cichlid here* strikes fear into any unwary cichlid that is unfortunate enough to be caught within its devilish stare'
There AREN'T any African pike cichlids....lol....they are only South American.....although there are a few that get pretty close to Central America.
You should throw in big words Ash, keep the readers at the edge of their seats. Like....'scales shimmerin like opaque emeralds, *insert cichlid here* strikes fear into any unwary cichlid that is unfortunate enough to be caught within its devilish stare'
eh I am to lazy to look it up, I am now all knowing on my Africans =) Just a know a very little bit!
lol nice, makes it more intresting, I'll try that when I got more time =( Like over winter break!
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 2:34 AM
Like....'scales shimmerin like opaque emeralds, *insert cichlid here* strikes fear into any unwary cichlid that is unfortunate enough to be caught within its devilish stare'
hahaha... the horror tale of fish keeping...
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 2:35 AM
haha yah right I got some mid terms to study for, classes to attend, them some work.. more like SLEEP then coffee!!
heh. since i study in the day and work at night... the answer to everything is coffee :ROFL:
dang you must be one bouncy mofo!!
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 2:42 AM
dang you must be one bouncy mofo!!
yup... bouncin to the sounds of ladies' night :grinyes:
yup... bouncin to the sounds of ladies' night :grinyes:
O__o like the song "oh its ladies night" okay well my retarded self is going to sleep now. wow This is really off topic..
Peanut_Power
10-19-2005, 2:48 AM
Sleep is no substitute for coffee! :D :woot:
DeLgAdO
10-19-2005, 2:49 AM
O__o like the song "oh its ladies night" okay well my retarded self is going to sleep now. wow This is really off topic..
*singin*
OH YES ITS LADYS NIGHT!
AND THE FEELINGS RIGHT!
OH YES ITS LADYS NIGHT!
OH WHAT A NIGHT!
OH WHAT NIGGGGHHHHTTTTT!
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 2:50 AM
*singin*
OH YES ITS LADYS NIGHT!
AND THE FEELINGS RIGHT!
OH YES ITS LADYS NIGHT!
OH WHAT A NIGHT!
OH WHAT NIGGGGHHHHTTTTT!
Oh hell yea!
love to see the ladies bouncing to that song... makes the job so much more enjoyable :grinyes:
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 2:51 AM
O__o like the song "oh its ladies night" okay well my retarded self is going to sleep now. wow This is really off topic..
ladies night at the club i work at really...
night to the retarded one.
haha... from african cichlids to a night life... :ROFL:
ladies night at the club i work at really...
night to the retarded one.
haha... from african cichlids to a night life... :ROFL:
O___o yah my African Cichlids are real night time party animals wheee
IoStrisciare
10-19-2005, 1:42 PM
O___o yah my African Cichlids are real night time party animals wheee
speaking of which...
where's the second part of this series? :grinyes:
speaking of which...
where's the second part of this series? :grinyes:
I'll post more when I get home I am at school right now waiting to go to comp class cant do much when all my infos at home =(
sandtiger
10-19-2005, 2:57 PM
There AREN'T any African pike cichlids....lol....they are only South American.....although there are a few that get pretty close to Central America
Technically Central America is a part of South America so all CA cichlids are in turn SA cichlids.
I keep Africans!!!! But only one species. N. brichardi (Fairy cichlid)
http://www.ohiexchange.com/armke/images/neo_brichardi.JPG
NOT MINE ^
I do prefer American cichlid though...sorry.
As for sleeping....I'll sleep when I'm dead.
cabouta1
10-19-2005, 3:10 PM
your input is awesome ash. great work, look forward to more of your african posts. keep several myself, in two different tanks. always looking for info on my fish. thanks
Caveman
10-19-2005, 6:41 PM
Pretty fish. :screwy:
Mourinho18
10-19-2005, 8:26 PM
you should try some africans that are a bit more rare. Everybody knows about labidochromis caerelus (lazy on the spelling). :D
yah I know they all know but I am trying to start out simple then go into it, so everyone gets the basics first!
rallysb1tch
10-19-2005, 10:28 PM
*giggle* When I read the title of this thread it reminded me of something that happened at a LFS a few weeks ago. Rallysman and I were looking around and I noticed that the mixed African Cichlids were on sale. Without thinking (I was in FISH MODE) I yelled "Hey look they've got Africans on sale!" Of course people took it the wrong way and started laughing at me! :lipsseale Thanks for taking the time to post the info on the cichlids, it is very helpful.
GREAT informations.... cool!!!!!!
*giggle* When I read the title of this thread it reminded me of something that happened at a LFS a few weeks ago. Rallysman and I were looking around and I noticed that the mixed African Cichlids were on sale. Without thinking (I was in FISH MODE) I yelled "Hey look they've got Africans on sale!" Of course people took it the wrong way and started laughing at me! :lipsseale Thanks for taking the time to post the info on the cichlids, it is very helpful.
:ROFL: thats funny
yah no prob. =)
General:
Haplochromis sp. "hippo pointe" is rather new cichlid native to Lake Victoria in Africa. Males have a lovely red blush, but will also exhibit some blue and shades of green. Females are a light olive green with some dark markings on the side. Males get up to about 3.5 to 4 inches while females stay smaller at around 2 to 2.5". Like all Haplochromines, this fish is a maternal mouthbrooder.
I have seen sources which note that Haplochromis sp. "hippo pointe" is a threatened species. To be honest, you could easily say this about most Haplochromines in Lake Victoria. Because of the introduction of the Nile Perch, over 400 species are threatened. It's a sad fact for a cichlid hobbyist.
Like other Lake Victoria haps, they grow very quickly and will breed while quite young. I have had females spawn at only 6 months of age, but spawns are larger and more successful when females are nine months old or more.
Habitat:
I haven't found much locale information for this fish on the internet. Many Victoria haps are found over the muddy and sandy areas of the lakes and I would guess that this would be similar.
Supposedly, this fish is found near Hippo Pointe, an area where a bunch of hippos are found. Hippos (the large mammal) are extremely aggressive and territorial and kill more people in African than crocodiles. You'd have to be one very brave collector to swim around with these 2 ton killers.
Care:
General:
Haplochromis sp. "hippo pointe" is easy to keep, but this species is pretty aggressive. It will often dominate Malawian haps. I kept eight Haplochromis sp. "hippo pointe" with a breeding colony of six Aulonocara marleri. Although I didn't see any fighting, the Hippo pointe male quickly took charge of the the tank even though he was quite a bit smaller than the marleri male. It's a good idea to provide caves and hiding places so that females and subdominant males have a place to retreat.
I kept mine in neutral water of medium hardness. I'm told that water conditions in Lake Victoria are highly variable, so this fish should be quite adaptable.
Feeding:
Feeding Haplochromis sp. "hippo pointe" is not problem. They readily accept flakes, pellets, and frozen food. I fed Doromin, sprirulina flakes and Agaudine dura-flakes.
Breeding:
As mentioned previously, this fish is a precocious breeder and will start breeding at only six months of age. For best results, keep one or two males to 4-6 females. Provide a flat slate for breeding. I have noticed that this fish will breed after a water change, especially if followed by a low pressure system building as part of a storm. They breed in the standard Hap fashion using the T-position.
info:gcca (http://gcca.net/index.htm)
General:
Astatotilapia latifasciata, often sold as Haplochromis "zebra obliquedens" is an attractive, barred African cichlid first typed by Regan in 1929.
There is quite a bit of variation in the appearance of this fish. Bars vary from brownish to black and the underlying background color varies from creamy yellow to golden. Poor fish exhibit uneven bars or blotches. Larger males may exhibit a red blush on the breast portion. Occasionally, Astatotilapia latifasciata is confused with Haplochromis sp. "44" as males of that species also have red on the breast. I have observed large males without any red on the breast, but with a blue sheen on the face and gill covers.
Males top out at about five inches; females are somewhat smaller at 4 inches maximum length.
Habitat
Astatotilapia latifasciata is native to Lake Nawampasa and Lake Nioga in central Uganda, north of Lake Victoria. One source mentions that these two lakes are connected by a swampy area in the rainy season and that is why Astatotilapia latifasciata is found in both locations.
Care:
Astatotilapia latifasciata presents no problems. Neutral to moderately hard water is best and regular partial water changes are recommended. Some Astatotilapia latifasciata males exhibit aggression towards other males and sometimes females, so provide ample hiding places.
Feeding:
Astatotilapia latifasciata is an easy to feed, hungry fish. In the wild, these fish are insectivores. In the aquarium, they will stuff themselves with just about anything. I fed cichlid flake, spirulina flake, pellets, mysis shrimp and plankton. Be careful not to overfeed them.
info:gcca (http://gcca.net/index.htm)
General:
Haplochromis ishmaeli is mouthbrooding cichlid native to Lake Victoria in Africa. This fish has been in the hobby for years, but few cichlid aquarists are aware of what a stunningly beautiful fish this is!
In general, Victorian Haps are given short shrift by many hobbyists. Some Victorians are just as colorful as their Malawian and Tanganyikan counterparts. Perhaps more interesting, many of the newest fish-- many of which lack scientific names-- are coming from this lake.
Haplochromis ishmaeli was first typed in by Bourlenger in 1906 from specimens collected in what is now Uganda. I have heard that this fish is extinct in the wild, but I have not been able to verify this.
Habitat:
This fish is primarily found over the muddy bottom of the lake. Few individuals were found over sandy bottoms. Haplochromis ishmaeli is found at depths up to 9 meters.
Care:
Haplochromis ishmaeli is quite easy to keep. Like most African cichlids, it appreciates clean, hard water. This fish is fairly aggressive, however, and you should only keep it with tankmates that can "take it." I kept six of these fish along with three Pseudotropheus daktari, six Crytocara moorii and some dwarf bristlenose plecos in a 40 gallon breeder. I think this crowded arrangement diminished aggression.
Even at the juvenile stage, they show aggressive tendencies, so be forewarned. Provide cover for the females. If a female is not ready to spawn, the male may pursue her and damage her severely. I have read that these fish grow over 5" in length, but at one year old, my largest male is just over 2.25" in length. They are slow growers.
Feeding:
In the wild, Haplochromis ishmaeli were found to feed almost exclusively on mollusks, occasionally snacking on an insect or two.
Fortunately, in the home aquarium, this fish will happily gobble a variety of prepared foods-- flakes, sticks, etc. They are very good eaters. I fed mine Tetra Cichlid Flakes, New Life Spectrum, HBH Graze and Tetra Cichlid Sticks.
Breeding:
It is easy to tell the male from the female. Males hae bright yellow splashes on the flanks, a bluish-grey head and vivid black stripes. On the male, the tale is an orange-red color.
Females have brown stripes over a golden tank background and lack yellow and blue coloring. Sub-dominant males will also look similar to females, but the stripes will be vivid enough that you should be able to tell the difference.
info: gcca (http://gcca.net/index.htm)
Caveman
10-19-2005, 11:02 PM
Where are all the MONSTER African Cichlid predators? :confused:
Where are all the MONSTER African Cichlid predators? :confused:
like I said, you gotta learn the basics first, thats how you learn things!! :D
I'll get to them just as I get to the not-so basic Africans just give me time, I'll try and update once a week and I do have school and work so its kinda hard to do alot at once be patient with me please!! :grinyes:
Caveman
10-19-2005, 11:06 PM
like I said, you gotta learn the basics first, thats how you learn things!! :D
I'll get to them just as I get to the not-so basic Africans just give me time, I'll try and update once a week and I do have school and work so its kinda hard to do alot at once be patient with me please!! :grinyes:
Come on Pokemon that aint cool to tease me like that.
guppy
10-19-2005, 11:07 PM
This one can almost pass for a pike cichlid.
vanimate
10-19-2005, 11:54 PM
good job ash!
when you say you got some of the info from GCCA, is that the greater chicagoland ciclid organization your are referring to? gcca.net?
good job ash!
when you say you got some of the info from GCCA, is that the greater chicagoland ciclid organization your are referring to? gcca.net?
gcca.net, thats just where I am getting the basics the rest I'll be doing a little research of my own, but I got some good sources.
vanimate
10-19-2005, 11:58 PM
they are having a swap this weekend that im gonna try to get some big driftwood pieces at, and maybe, just maybe a cichlid or two :)
DeLgAdO
10-20-2005, 12:00 AM
Where are all the MONSTER African Cichlid predators? :confused:
EMPEROR CICHLIDS!!!
they come for lake tanganyika
and are the worlds largest cichlid species
toping off at over 3 feet!!!! :eek:
Caveman
10-20-2005, 12:03 AM
EMPEROR CICHLIDS!!!
they come for lake tanganyikan
and are the worlds largest cichlid species
toping off at over 3 feet!!!! :eek:
Damn how could I forget about them?
vanimate
10-20-2005, 12:11 AM
yeah those emperors are nice! I'm sure you guys, and gal(s) have seen "jewel of the rift" alot of good emperor footage in there
Motag 7
10-20-2005, 1:24 AM
i don't think that people on this sight are lacking knowledge but just interest, the only africans that i have ever really liked have beenthe butterkoferi(sorry if its spelled wrong its late) and the kenyi cichlid :D
Caveman
10-20-2005, 1:26 AM
i don't think that people on this sight are lacking knowledge but just interest, the only africans that i have ever really liked have beenthe butterkoferi(sorry if its spelled wrong its late) and the kenyi cichlid :D
I am with you on the Buttikoferi. Its like the Midas of the African Cichlids.
Motag 7
10-20-2005, 1:27 AM
i was in love with peacocks......for about a week, i bought a great lookin red peacock and few others and spent total of 180$ in 4 days for one tank and wound up giving them up and taking in a managuense, i didn't sell one of them, i gave them all away :)
Motag 7
10-20-2005, 1:28 AM
tah, buterkoferi are great fish and i like them so much because they are just like acentral or a south american
Sleep is no substitute for coffee! :D :woot:
I drink coffee while sleeping.
Motag, use the edit button to add in those after thoughts.
Motag 7
10-20-2005, 1:41 AM
good call :D
w3arB3aR
10-20-2005, 3:55 AM
how bout posting some nimbochromis venustus and champsochromis caeruleus?
how bout posting some nimbochromis venustus and champsochromis caeruleus?
yah yah I'll get to it later today or tomorrow along with all their other fish... new idea... just tell me what you want and I'll post the info. :D
But I am still posting random other Africans when I get bored.
fsc46
10-20-2005, 11:12 AM
Great job Ash! It's good to see others that like african cichlids. BTW the info she has posted is on point.
I have a request... post some info on one species of frontosa. It's very popular in the african hobby right now, and they make a great addition to and tank that houses them.
Great job Ash! It's good to see others that like african cichlids. BTW the info she has posted is on point.
I have a request... post some info on one species of frontosa. It's very popular in the african hobby right now, and they make a great addition to and tank that houses them.
will do most likly tonight or tomorow, yah I love Fronts, I own a few myself =)
Reiner
10-20-2005, 5:23 PM
Technically Central America is a part of South America so all CA cichlids are in turn SA cichlids..
Sandtiger you are wrong about the North and South American border. The continent of North America ends with the country of Panama and the South American continent starts with the country of Colombia. So all of Central America belongs to the Noth American continent.
Sandtiger you are wrong about the North and South American border. The continent of North America ends with the country of Panama and the South American continent starts with the country of Colombia. So all of Central America belongs to the Noth American continent.
Not only is it not the same, and the boarders are not near one another but the two areas of NA and SA are really different from one another.
tracyb7377
10-20-2005, 6:13 PM
wow great photo of the yellow lab i have 5 blue 3 white and 1 yellow but when the yellow matured it turned out to be caeruleus caeruleus and not labidochromis caeruleus as it was labeled in the store
Reiner
10-20-2005, 6:14 PM
Ash I'm sorry I have no idea what you are trying to say
Cyphotilapia Frontosa
Basics:
The king of Lake Tanganyika, this showpiece can attain lengths over 12 inches! "Fronts," as they're affectionally called, are by far the most popular tanganyikan cichlid. It's not just their impressive size or elaborate fins alone that make them so popular among aquarists, but rather their amiable and outgoing personality (not to mention that good quality fry are always in demand). This fish is like a puppy - after a short acclimization period, they'll eat right out of your hand. Wild specimens are just as gregarious as tank-raised individuals, which is a rare trait among piscovores. Despite being less active and non-aggressive, they excitably greet their owner with the same type of enthusiasm as mbuna.
Looks:
Frontosa are characterized by a white (or blue) body, adorned with either 6 or 7 black, vertical bars. Adults develop a large cephalic hump, with that of males usually being more pronounced. The hump is a large fatty deposit that rests atop a dorsal muscle that tends to extend forward. The hump develops and increases in size with age and is usually a sign of sexual fecundity. Their fins become more elaborate with age as well. There is nothing quite like the sight of a 10-year old frontosa with his long fins waving gracefully below and behind him.
Locatioin:
Frontosa are found in many different locations in the lake, but always in the deeper portions along the coastline - 10-50 m (30-170 ft). Like many sedentary animals (e.g., tortoise), Fronts have an unusually long life span of over 25 years. This sedentary behavior has probably been the impetus for the development of several geographic variants. The ones pictured on this page are all from Burundi. Other geographical races come from Kigoma, Bulu Point, Mpimbwe, Samazi, Kasanga, Chaitika, Kapampa, Kavala, and Zaire.
Male/Female:
Cyphotilapia frontosa is a monomorphic species with little or no difference between males and females. Males usually have a larger hump than females, but this characteristic is by no means a garauntee. Frontosa can only be sexed reliably by venting, and even this method cannot always be trusted. Venting frontosa accurately requires experience. Males also tend to be larger - they can grow to over 12 inches while females are lucky to reach 10 inches - but this too is not always true. In short, be cautious of any one ready to sell you sexed frontosa; make sure they're experienced and reputable.
Feeding:
As already mentioned, C. frontosa is a lethargic and slow-moving fish. Even in the lake they don't expend much energy in hunting down their food. Nature has endowed them with a unique trait which gives them an advantage over their prey - Fronts are nocturnal feeders and don't require much light to wake up. Fish make up the majority of their diet, Cyprichromis species being their primary target. Cyps spend the day in large schools (numbering in tens of thousands) in the upper water column, but at dusk, they descend to the bottom where they hug the substratum. Fronts, still awake and alert, easily scoop the unsuspecting Cyps up by the mouthful. Because of the ease with which they are able to feast upon the Cyps, frontosa don't have to spend much energy chasing their food, a chase they would certainly lose to the agile Cyps during the day.
In the tank, this cichlid can be fed small feeder fish (live or frozen), mysis, shrimp, krill, and worms. Pellets are also a good food, but flakes should be avoided after they reach 4 or 5 inches in total length. Flakes will either go ignored or get too messy and are not adequate to bring them into breeding condition.
Breeding:
Patience is necessary if you plan to breed this wonderful fish. Three to four years are required for a 1-inch fish to reach sexual maturity. Sexually active males turn blue, especially the snout region. He will select an open, yet secluded area which is only weakly defended. When he has a willing female's attention, he will slowly pass over the spot with his fins folded. Spawning is very inconspicuous - no shaking, no flashing of fins, or sparring with conspecifics. As the male passes over the selected spot, he releases his milt, showing the female where to go. Some have hypothesized that the milt may serve to encourage the female to lay her eggs. She will then pass over the spot in the same manner as the male, slowly and with fins folded. After dropping an egg, she will back up - not turn around - to pick it up. She will repeat this procedure, "rocking back and forth" four to six times. Apparently, the male's milt is powerful enough to fertilize eggs several minutes after it is released.
Broods number anywhere from 20 to 50 fry, and maybe even as high as 80, depending upon the condition of the female and the variant. Females will hold for a period of 5 weeks. Fry should be separated and raised apart from the adults.
General Tank Set- up:
The tank should be decorated simply with a few rocks, which are important to give these shy cichlids a sense of security. Don't overdo it with lots of rocks or sharp rocks. These fish move slow until they get spooked - then they are lightning fast and very clumsy. The alpha-male will be your largest and oddly enough, shyest of the group. He will need a cave, but the females do alright in the open. While not always a success aethestically, clay pots can be used to create caves. Lace rock works well as does slate if placed on its side to create alleys and secretive coves. 40 gallons will work well as a grow-out tank. For a colony of 10 adults, a 125-gallon tank or bigger is recommended.
bluedempsey
10-20-2005, 6:32 PM
^
awesome info :clap
Nimbochromis venustus
General:
A large Malawian mouthbrooder, was first typed by Boulenger in 1908 as Haplochromis Venustus. In 1989 it was reclassified into the species Nimbochromis by Eccles and Trewavas.
Nimbochromis venustus is closely related to Nimbochromis livingtonii. Both are popular cichlids reguarly found in pet stores. Nimbochromis venustus is sometimes called the Giraffe Hap because of the blotchy patches that appear on females (see photo at right) and sub-adult males. Males in breeding dress have a bright blue head and yellow-green sheen to the flanks partially covering the "giraffe" splotches. There appears to be quite a bit of difference between individuals depending on age, position in the hierarchy and the presence of breeding color.
Habitat:
Nimbochromis venustus is found over sandy areas in the lake at depths averaging 15 meters.
Care:
Nimbochromis venustus is fairly hardy and easy to keep. Like all Malawian cichlids, it appreciates hard water and temperatures of 76 to 80F. Nimbochromis venustus grows up to 10 inches; a group of six to eight adults would do best large tank of at least 100 gallons. Smaller specimens can be kept in correspondingly smaller aquaria.
Nimbochromis venustus is an ambush predator. It has been observed burrowing into the sand where it's splotchy coloration acts a camouflage. Because of this habit, provide a soft substrate of sand or fine gravel. A sharp substate combined with poor water quality can quickly lead to eye cloudiness in this fish which is impossible to reverse in my experience.
Like many predators that live in the sandy habitat, Nimbochromis venustus are strong and swift swimmers. I observed near constant schoaling behavior in the tank making for a very attractive display.
There are differing reports regarding aggression in this species. I have read reports stating that this fish is very aggressive toward both it's kind and conspecifics. This was not my experience; I would classify this fish as only moderately agressive.
I kept seven Nimbochromis venustus with a variety of other Malawian cichlids with only moderate aggression taking place. Individual fish do have quite different personalities, however, so keep on the lookout for aggressive behavior. When I added two fish purchased from a fellow club member, the newly introduced dominant male went aggressively after his forrmer tankmate. The fish were sold to me as a pair but were, in fact, a dominant and sub-dominant male. Cichlids always keep us guessing!
Feeding:
In the lake, Nimbochromis venustus is an opportunistic feeder. Much has been written about its habit as a paedophage (fry eater) where the ambush technique previously mentioned comes into play. Stomach contents have revealed, however, a variety of zoo plankton and other materials, so as you'd expect, this fish is easy to feed in captivity. I fed Tetra Cichlid Flakes, spirulina flakes, Aquadine Duraflakes, frozen brine shrimp and Tetra Cichlid Sticks. They are big eaters and will keep eating until they are quite plump!
Breeding:
Nimbochromis venustus is fairly easy to breed. The key components to success are:
The fish need to be at least four to five inches long and 1 to 1.5 years old. Be patient as this fish needs to be pretty big before they will reproduce.
Provide a flat stone or slate as the breeding site.
Position the slate away from strong currents in the tank as the eggs are externally fertilized, similar to Cyrtocara species.
Although I never observed a spawning, reports I have read indicates that it proceeds similarly to that of Cyrtocara moorii.
Spawns are very large containing from 60 to 120 eggs. I found the females to be shy holders in my hectic 125 gallon tank, so I stripped the female two days post spawning and incubated the largish eggs for 13 days. The fry exhibit the female color pattern almost immediately and are quite robust eaters. I fed my fry on Cyclops-eeze for four days and then transitioned them to crushed flake food. Even at young age, they are strong swimmers. The fry grow quickly.
A few notes about breeding this fish:
Males will spawn prior to obtaining full adult coloration. To identify up and coming males, look for a longer yellow streak down the nose and egg spots on the anal fin.
Females definitely respond better to fully colored males than sub-dominant males.
If you move a juvenile male into a tank containing several females and a colored-up male, expect trouble. A sub-dominant male was harassed by a dominant male on one occasion. Expect this behavior to be more profound in a species tank than in a mixed tank.
As always, I recommend you start with a group of six to eight juvenile fish and grow them up together
Waiting for the next fish! Red Empress, Calvus info if you have time.
Red Empress (Protomelas taeniolatus)
General Information:The Red Empress is a beautiful haplochromine line bred from the Namalenje strain in Lake Malawi. As is usual for haps, the males are the showy ones whereas females are drab gray/brown with black horizontal striping. The males generally color up around three inches. During courting and breeding, the male will actively and aggressively defend a large territory, driving out any fish that may inadvertently enter the territory. When not breeding, the male will no longer defend this territory and will allow any fish to go into it and be overall very peaceful. They are very aggressive against other males of their kind and it is not recommended to have more than one male in a tank unless the tank is very large.
The empress is not so much a digger as it is a relentless sand-sifter. In a tank with sand as the substrate it will regularly scoop up sand in its mouth and scatter it all over the tank, on plants, on rocks, and yes, next to the filter intake. Therefore, an intake with a sponge prefilter and/or the heavy pool filter sand are recommended to protect the filter impellor from sand damage. Generally, they will not bother plants and appear to appreciate a planted tank with some room to sift. Mine also enjoys the rock structure in my tank for hiding whenever something strange is happening in the tank such as an invading siphon tube. Rocks and caves are needed, but these structures must be planned to allow for plenty of available swimming room.
Adult Length: 8"-9" (22 cm) max, females smaller. Max size is generally 6" (15 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons (280L), 100 gallons or more preferred
Water Requirements: pH: 7.6-8.6 Very Hard, 76-82 degrees F (25-28 C)
Diet Requirements: They are herbivores but very opportunistic feeders. They will do fine on a varied diet including spirulina as well as meaty flakes/pellets. I feed a mix of spirulina flake and color-enhancing pellets. Empresses are bloat-prone, thus small, frequent feedings are preferred over one or two large feedings
Sexing: Males will develop a great deal of color as they mature, females will remain drab gray with black horizontal striping. Otherwise, venting must be done. Males will also have longer, pointed dorsal and anal fins with females having shorter and more rounded fins
Breeding: Maternal mouthbrooder. Male will intensify in color, stake out an aggressively defended territory, and vibrate and display in order to attract females. After breeding, male will cease defense of his territory, letting other fish use it to their desire.
Mourinho18
10-26-2005, 5:34 PM
give us some info on some tropheops
Altolamprologus calvus
The Pearly Calvus
General:
Altolamprologus calvus is a recently discovered Tanganyikan fish, first typed by Poll in 1988. This slender predator's unique compressed shape and somewhat menacing appearance has made it a popular fish for cichlid enthusiasts.
While not difficult to keep, Altolamprologus calvus can be a challenge to breed for the novice. This is a very slow-growing species; allow at least two years to get them from a one-inch size to your first spawn. Additionally, this fish requires a unique spawning area.
A number of color variants of Altolamprologus calvus are available in the hobby. The most popular, the "black" variety (sometimes called Pearly) is pictured above. Other varieties include white and orange. I have also heard of a zebra type, but have not personally seen it.
Habitat:
Altolamprologus calvus is always found in association with rocky areas, particulary the reef-like structures in the lake.
Care:
Altolamprologus calvus can easily be kept in a 15-20 gallon tank and is not aggressive towards con-specifics. Like all Tanganyikans, it appreciates hard, clean water. I kept mine in Chicago water and made no chemical changes.
I performed weekly, 50% water changes during my grow-out stage with no problems. Altolamprologus calvus can be sensitive to abrupt temperature changes, so make sure that your replacement water is consistent with what is in the tank. I kept my fish at 78F.
Feeding:
Altolamprologus calvus is a specialized predator, feeding on eggs, fry and young fish on the reef. The laterally compressed body of this fish allow it to penetrate tight crevaces and extract their prey hiding within. The large mouth is rapidly opened and the enormous suction produced draws in the prey forcefully.
Fortunately, in the aquarium, they will take a variety of high-protein foods. I fed brine shrimp and earthworm flakes, New Life Spectrum and Aquadyne duraflakes.
Don't get frustrated if your fish do not grow quickly; this species just doesn't get big fast!
Breeding:
Altolamprologus calvus isn't hard to breed, but you do need to make sure your fish are sexually mature and have the right place to lay eggs. While they are growing, you can keep
You can sex Altolamprologus calvus by size. Males are about one-third larger than females. I suggest starting with four to five fry or juvenile fish and growing them up in a twenty-gallon tank.
After two years or 2.5" for the female, pair formation will begin. Look for a small fish and large fish that like to stay together. At this point, it's a good idea to remove the other fish, although I have had successful spawns with unpaired calvus in the tank. If you have any plecos in the tank, it would be a good idea to remove them as they may eat the eggs.
Altolamprologus calvus likes to spawn in tight confines. In one of Pam Chin's columns, she recommended using shells. However, GCCA members who has successfully spawned this fish recommend Boester Bells named after Rick and Monica Boester who have sold many of these for breeding dwarf bristlenose plecos. These tapered, ceramic cones seem to appeal to the fish and worked for great for me.
The female will enter the Boester Bell and lay the eggs. The male, if he's not too big, will enter the mouth or stay near the entrance and wash his milt over the eggs. Young pairs will lay about 75 eggs. Larger pairs will lay over 200 eggs.
The female will stay inside fanning the eggs and protecting them while the male patrols outside. They are very good parents.
It's certainly possible to raise the fry in the parent tank, but I removed the Boester Bell one week post-hatch when the fry were are almost free swimming to a five gallon grow-out tank containing gravel and a seasoned sponge filter.
The fry of Altolamprologus calvus are bottom huggers. For this reason, you will need to pay extra attention to water quality as extra food can quickly foul the substrate. I fed a mixture of Cyclops-eeze, Hikari First Start, and finely ground earthworm and brine shrimp flakes.
give us some info on some tropheops
gotta get back to work, I'll update on them later tonight or tomorrow k!
Mourinho18
10-26-2005, 6:00 PM
:thumbsup: , good stuff so far
AngelicGreenTerror
10-27-2005, 2:50 AM
I agree.. and nice Calvus picture.. I simply love it.
fsc46
10-30-2005, 11:31 AM
What's going on Ash? Studying for exams???
What's going on Ash? Studying for exams???
MID TERMS ARGH!!!! x__X I've been on and off here not much time, I promise I'll update soon =) I got fish to do lol!!
Pseudotropheus Tropheops Sp. 'red cheek', Pseudotropheus Tropheops red head, Pseudotropheus Big eye, Macropthalmus Red cheek. (common names for this fish)
General
In the wild the male guards a territory of around 2 m in diameter at a rock. A very attractive cichlid which I gladly recommend, best kept together with other rough cichlids.
Size
At the most 14-15 cm (5.5-6 in.), females are significant smaller.
Food
Shrimpmix
Aquarium
Above 300 litres.
Habitat
Turbulent water in rocky habitat.
Breeding
Not so easy to spawn like many other mbunas, but still it is relatively easy to spawn.
*please excuse the lack of info. I am short on time =( I will put a more detailed up date on this fish and another type of Tropheops later ok! Sorry, much*
Good luck with the mid terms.
I believe I owe you all another fish =) I thought this guy looked pretty intresting so I decided to post him. I saw him in a shop the other day!
Common Name
Neolamprologus Compressiceps
Temperament
Territorial, but calm towards tank mates of a similar size. f they become to aggressive, overcrowd the aquarium to give them less to fight over.
Food
Ominvore. Feed shrimp, frozen foods and small fish
Care
A large amount of rocks with caves for hiding places is needed. Plants can be added without being destroyed.
Water
PH 7.0 - 8.0, Hardness 8.0°dH - 12.0°dH, Temp. 73°F - 77°F
Size
about 5 inches
Region of the Aquarium
Bottom dweller
Breeding
Hard to breed, but if you have the right pH around 7.5 and the right aquarium set up, then you should be fine. Start off with one male and 3 females and once the male has found his female - remove the other two.
Gender
Difficult to determine by external features.
shekes
11-11-2005, 10:28 AM
WOW!! It looks really cool!
I thought so also!! I was like wow what a cool looking fish!! =)
Gooda
11-11-2005, 10:43 AM
This is a lot of good info. Its helping me with all of these German peoples questions. All they have over here is African Cichlids...
This is a lot of good info. Its helping me with all of these German peoples questions. All they have over here is African Cichlids...
yay glad it helps!! If you need info on a certian African just post the name of the fish on here and I will see what I can find for you =)
Vince
11-11-2005, 11:16 AM
I am with you on the Buttikoferi. Its like the Midas of the African Cichlids.
Uhh..I dunno. I think a Butterkoefferi will and can kill a midas or red devil. Dems fishies are psychos! :crazy: :screwy: fish.
:clap: :clap: :clap:
Nice collection of data Ash. :thumbsup:
Thanks again you guys =) Here is info for the Buttikoferi :D
General:
The Buttikoferi Cichlid, also known as the Zebra Tilapia, inhabits the river systems of Western Africa. The coloration of this fish is a series of black and white vertical stripes. Although they can be peaceful when young, as they grow so does their disposition, which becomes very territorial.
Tank Set-up:
The ideal setup for the Buttikoferi Cichlid is a tank of at least 70 gallons (minium tank size) with plenty of rocks for territories and a medium-sized gravel planted with hardy plants. This fish will become aggressive towards smaller fish, so it is important to keep them with similar-sized fish, or in a species tank.
Tank Conditions:
72-82 degrees F. pH level 7.8-8.5, KH 10-15
Max Size: is about 1 foot - in an aquarium
Breeding:
Currently, the Buttikoferi Cichlid is being successfully bred in farms and aquariums. They are substrate spawners, excavating a pit to lay eggs in. During spawning time, the pair will become highly aggressive.
Food:
Feed the Buttikoferi Cichlid a variety of both meaty and vegetable-based foods. Live foods should be offered such as brine shrimp, earthworms and mosquito larvae. A quality flake and tablet food containing vegetable matter should also be included in their diet. They are omnivores!
Caveman
11-11-2005, 1:41 PM
Took you long enough. I have been wating for the Buttikoferi forever.
Caveman
11-11-2005, 1:43 PM
I had a breeding pair of Buttikoferi. The male had way more blue on his fins then the female and also had much more bulk to the head.
=) sorry you guys were talking about it not telling me you wanted it... so I took a guess after that last post!! @_@
Caveman
11-11-2005, 1:53 PM
Do the Hemichromis fasciatus this is another one my favorite fish.
Okay Hemichromis fasciatus it is, but I couldnt find alot but here is what I gots:
General:
High, minimum population doubling time less than 15 months.
Distribution: Africa: Senegal to the Nile basins and from Lake Chad to Ituri River in Congo basin and upper Zambezi. Also known from Côte d'Ivoire and Ghana Elsewhere, widely distributed in West Africa. They are used in the wild as tilapia control.
Food:
Feeds on shrimps, insects and small fishes, best with live food but can eat other foods such as pellets.
Breeding:
A nesting substrate spawner which breeds in the early summer.
Max. size: 20.4 cm - almost 2 feet., weight: 300 g
Environment: freshwater; pH range: 7; dH range: 15
Climate: tropical; 23 - 25°C; 18°N - 17°S
so if you wanna add to it please do =)
oh snap I thought my thread went away awhile ago, guess I should update this thing. who wants to know about another fish????????
Vince
12-16-2005, 12:42 PM
How about the Oreochromis niloticus, breeding, growth rate, and maximum size? I'm thinking aquaculture :)
The Nile tilapia!
Max Size: about 62cm.
Habitat: Fresh and Brackish Water
Tempature: Tropical: 14 - 33 degrees celcius
Breeding/Aquaculture potential: Predominantly herbivorous. Young fry omnivorous. Phytoplankton becomes progressively more important as the fish grow. Breeds throughout the year in equatorial waters, but peak usually coincides with rain season. Maternal mouthbrooder. Males construct nests in firm sand at 0.6-2 m. Fecundity varies with size: 340 eggs in female of 17 cm TL; 3706 eggs in female of 57 cm TL. Hybridises with a number of other cichlid species. Used in polyculture with a number of other species. Adults require 28% protein in diet, but maximum growth at 34% protein. (they also like plants)
Potential growth rate: cant find.
Also here is the best thing I could find for breeding info:
http://www.ag.auburn.edu/fish/icaae/reprobiology.htm
Hope that Helps :D
Wow, great link and info. Thanks for the help :thumbsup: :)
yup yup =) anyone else need info for a African?
HarpoGarza
12-18-2005, 3:53 AM
yup yup =) anyone else need info for a African?
I just got a male Aulonacara nyassae, who is currently black. I was told by my LFS that the only way to get his blue colors to come out was to get him some females. Another LFS told me feeding him brine shrimp or krill once a week would bring out his blue. Whom should I believe? All research I've done points to him having some females, but in the 3 weeks I've had him he's already starting to lighten up a bit, and his blue is slowly developing. Also, any info on Nimbochromis livingstonii?
Nimbochromis livingstonii I do believe his info is already in this thread but I could be wrong, and I will get back to you on is it food or female fish thing, I got to go to work soon so I dont have much time for some research get off at six, will have it up by the end of tonight! I think food might help though, if its the right diet. I'll find it out for you.
SinisterKisses
12-18-2005, 10:54 AM
The blue should develop on its own to an extent, but to get the full colour out of him, you'll have to add females to really brighten him up :)
HarpoGarza
12-18-2005, 3:24 PM
Much obliged!
got off early here is some more info and the anwser to your question, just as sk said it's prob. going to get more color with females added.
Aulonocara nyassae
Gen. Info: Aulonocara nyassae, comes from the rocky, sandy shores of Lake Malawi, Africa. The male is a bright yellow to metallic blue, whereas the female is a drab brown to gray. Size: around 6 inches
Tank: This fish does well in an aquarium that is at least 50 gallons with plenty of rocks for territories and a sandy bottom. The male is usually only aggressive towards its own species unless its territory is invaded upon. Provide a ratio of 3 to 4 females to one male. Minimum Tank Capacity is 50 gallons.Tank Set-up should be Rocks, plants, sand bottom. Tank Conditions: 72-82°F; pH 7.8-8.5; dH 10-15. The lighting should be low.
Breeding/Coloration: The males colors will become more vivid during breeding time. The yellow will become more pronounced and his temperament will become more aggressive. Again, provide multiple females for the male, as it will take the stress off of the female carrying the eggs. Incubation is approximately 3 weeks, at which time, the female will release the fry. Provide the fry with newly hatched brine shrimp and finely ground flake food.
Food: This fish should be fed a variety of both meaty and vegetable-based foods. Feed live and frozen brine shrimp along with Spirulina-based flake and pellet foods. Diet: Omnivore.
any one else need info on an african?
Boulengerochromis Microlepsis :) heheh, get to work. I bought two of these guys...too lazy to look...
Boulengerochromis Microlepsis (said to be the largest cichlid):
*you know for such a large cichlid it was hard finding all this info. I dunno why.... Seems like a pretty awesome fish though, anyways I hope this helps some, if not then I am sorry and tell me what you do need to know and I'll try to find it!!*
Max. size: documented to grow up to 24inches, max. published weight: 4,500 g
Water Qualityt: freshwater; pH range: 9; dH range: 10
Tempature: tropical; 24 – 26°C
Food: Micro predators - High protein pellets and flake, live or frozen food of a suitable size.
Herbivores - Low protein high fibre pellets and flake (Goldfish food), cooked peas without skin, Cucumber slices, live/frozen food once per week. It is suggested that this fish gets a mix of both meaty and herbivore like foods, Granuar, Granumeat, Spirulina, and Granugreen are all what I have seen to be suggested.
Breeding: These fish are generally quite prolific and will spawn regularly if in good health and good water quality. They produce large well developed fry but only in small numbers sometimes as few as four. Although it is suggested that the will not breed in an aquarium unless you had a massive massive tank and tank set up. (didnt find much but here is a documentery on breeding them ):
http://www.cichlidae.com/article.php?id=89
Thank you! :) Once again, great info :)
yay! =) So yup if anyone needs anymore info just letme knowwww =)
Variabilochromis moorii
General:
Variabilochromis moorii is substrate-spawning Tanganyikan fish first typed by Boulenger in 1898.
Both male and female are very dark, nearly black, and sport an electric blue edge to the tail fin. There are also blue highlights on the pectoral and dorsal fins. Synonyms for this fish are Lamprologus moorii or Neolamprologus moorii. In fact, the Variabilochromis nomenclature is farily new.
Habitat:
In the lake, Variabilochromis moorii is found in the shallow, rocky habitat. Numerous caves and rock surfaces are found in this area. Maximum depth in this area is 10M.
Care (water quality and temp):
Variabilochromis moorii is not difficult to keep. You can easily house a pair in a 20-gallon tank. Temperatures of around 78 to 80F work well. Like all Tanganyikans, provide hard water and do regular partial water changes. Maybe change 30-50% per week. About 7.2pH and 300 ppm hardness, or dH 8.2.
Feeding:
Variabilochromis moorii is easy to feed. Tetra Cichlid Flakes, Spirulina flakes, Tetra Cichlid Sticks and occasionally frozen adult brine shrimp or plankton.
Breeding:
Best housed in a 55gallon tank for breeding.
Since this fish is a secretive cave spawner, provide lots of caves and rockwork. My fish spawned in a 4-inch terracotta cave.
Variabilochromis moorii is fairly easy to sex. You can discern the sexes by watching parental behavior. The small male guards the outskirts of the territory. The always-alert female stays near the eggs/fry at all times.
Variabilochromis moorii forms solid pair bonds unlike the bulk of Lamprologines which are harem spawners. Once you have a pair, you can expect good production and compatibility for a long time.
Spawns for this fish can be quite large, up to 500
mjime714
12-22-2005, 2:03 PM
Awe my gosh ash! You are awesome!! Into video games, African Cichlids and a looker... Can you cook?
This info is just what I have been looking for. I was into reef tanks way back but now, just getting back into aquariums, I am focusing on Africans. This info is great. Thanks for all of it.
No problem =) I dont know I am good with mircrowaves, ovens and frying pans.. haha. Yah if you find a fish your intrested in and its no listed on here let me know and I will see what info I can get for yah!
Caveman
12-22-2005, 5:29 PM
Boulengerochromis Microlepsis! Thats what i'm talking about. Need to get me a few of them.
I know they are some pretty cool looking fish. I am thinking of trying to get one myself =) (page 10)
Caveman
12-22-2005, 5:37 PM
I know they are some pretty cool looking fish. I am thinking of trying to get one myself =) (page 10)
You could raise them and get some more info for us on them. :naughty:
Here is another smaller African (Lake Tanganyikan) that I ve always been intrested and want to keep, I love how they are either one color and their fins are bright and vibrant and also how they shine, very nice looking to me, but hard to find info on them, but this is what I got:
Xenotilapia Sima llangi
Maximum Size:
6 Inches
Minimum Tank Size:
80 Gallons , pH 7.2 hard water, make sure they have hiding spots and open space. Tropical Tempature.
Social Status:
Best kept in groups (Schooling)
Spawning Type:
Mouthbrooder , will breed if kept in the right settings.
Feeding Classification:
Carnivorous Sandsifter, live food such as shrimp, freeze dried foods and sinking pellets.
You could raise them and get some more info for us on them. :naughty:
If I could get the money to get a seprate tank for them and actually and could find the fish and what not and set up a new tank I would. =) untill then I dunno much more =(
Caveman
12-22-2005, 5:49 PM
Those are sweet to. I normally dont like little African Cichlids but those one have a odd look to them.
I know!! I love the way they look its so intersting, I saw them on a websites ordering list and thought hmm so I looked them up! I want to get them but shippings to much =( I have to see if my lfs can get them in.
Caveman
12-22-2005, 5:53 PM
I know!! I love the way they look its so intersting, I saw them on a websites ordering list and thought hmm so I looked them up! I want to get them but shippings to much =( I have to see if my lfs can get them in.
Get a group order going down there. I wouldnt mind owning a few them.
I am going to check into!
Vince
12-23-2005, 10:11 PM
OK, I tried looking for this one but couldn't find any info. I don't have any pictures, and only have the "common name". It's "basengi" - red fire queen. Never heard, but I saw it on a wholesale list. Thanks in advance.
blacktip
12-23-2005, 10:44 PM
Okay, looks like some clever marketing here. Based on what I have seen in other posts regarding this fish and the location where a very common red colored hap originates from, here is what I haved deduced:
1. I believe that "basengi" is actually Senga Bay
2. "Red fire queen" is actually a Red Empress
Here's a link (http://www.malawimayhem.com/profile_show.php?id=377) to some info on this fish. Males can be very beautiful, but the one I had was very aggressive. Others I have known had individuals that were much more calm than mine was so mine may have just been a particularly beligerent individual.
Vince
12-23-2005, 11:48 PM
hah! Completely what I didn't imagine. Red fire queen sounded like it's super beautiful, but the fish you posted is nice, just not what I imagined. Thanks :)
blacktip
12-24-2005, 6:08 AM
The picture on that page that I linked to was not spectacular. These pages have some pictures of some more spectacular individuals:
http://www.cichlidae.com/tanks/contest/phase-06.php
http://www.malawi.cichlids.ru/articles/article.php?&art_id=199&cat=2
I am just gonna guess you got the info you needed =) sorry for not responding let alone sooner I ve been gone a few days and prob later tonight! Anyways if you need ne more lemme know.
Julidochromis dickfeldi (Nice but small! Maybe a suggestion for those of you who have smaller tanks and want Africans ;) I like them!)
General:
This slender, African fish native to the southwestern area of Lake Tanganyika in Africa. This attractive fish is a secretive cave spawner with interesting brood care. The parents will raise several generations of babies together and are great Moms and Dads. It's extremely difficult, if not impossible, to distinguish the sexes of this fish. I believe, and a number of sources confirm, that the females are generally the larger fish. Julidochromis dickfeldi don't get very big, only about 3 inches or so, so you could consider this a dwarf cichlid. They are well suited to smaller tanks because they maintain rather small territories.
Care:
Julidochromis dickfeldi don't like soft water, but they will do fine in neutral or moderately hard water. Julidochromis dickfeldi does not need a very large tank a standard 20 gallon tank will do. Fine gravel for the bottom of the tank and lots of rockwork to simulate caves and hiding places. Julidochromis dickfeldi is territorial, but with the proper tank set-up you can easily limit it. An interesting thing about this fish is that really doesn't move around outside of its territory. Julidochromis dickfeldi will act aggressively toward conspecifics, so don't keep it with any other julies. I suggest a species tank for this fish.
Water: pH range: 8.5 to 9.2 and dH range: 8.0 to 12.0., Temp: Tropical mid 70's-80's
Feeding:
If you look at Julidochromis dickfeldi, you'll notice the downward pointing mouth. In the lake, these fish graze on crustaceans and other small creatures found on the rocks. This is not a fish that will rush to the surface when you feed them! They'll stay within a couple of inches of the bottom and peck at food as it floats down. A large variety of prepared foods such as flake, New Life Spectrum pellets, bloodworms, etc.
Breeding:
Julidochromis dickfeldi isn't difficult to breed, but some patience is required for two reasons:
They have to be about a year old before they breed
It's not easy to tell when they've bred!
I suggest that you obtain six to eight fry or juvenile fish and grow them up together.
At one year, Julidochromis dickfeldi will start pairing off. If you've provided rockwork and caves, you'll notice a pair drive away other fish from their territory. After a month or so of "decorating" their new home, excavating gravel, etc., the fish may breed. You may notice increased activity within the cave, and one of the fish may rarely come out because it is guarding eggs. The eggs are laid on the roof or side of a cave almost always out of view. The babies are very small when born, and initially feed on small organisms present in the aquarium. One of the great things about Julidochromis dickfeldi is that the juveniles will help raise succeeding generations of fish. At one point, I had five generations of babies from 1/8th inch long up to about 3/4 of an inch long. The fry have an interesting habit of hanging motionless, orienting themselves vertically or horizontally to match the rockwork. Julidochromis dickfeldi fry grow very slowly taking about four months to reach one inch in length. Fry are easily damaged by rough netting, so be especially careful when you move them.
General:
Aulonocara jacobfreibergi is one of the largest of the cichlids generically called peacocks. Not large as far as cichlids go, but males can attain a size up to 8 or 9 inches, females somewhat smaller. Not surprisingly, it is also one of the most popular. Originally called Trematocranus jacobfreibergi or the Malawi Butterfly, it was one of the first peacocks brought into this country in the early seventies. There are several populations available today all grouped under the name Aulonocara jacobfreibergi. The most common are the "Otter Point" and the "Lemon Jake". Others include the "Hongi Island" and the "Cape Kaiser". Recently some albino A. jacobfreibergi varieties have surfaced.
Habitat:
A. jacobfreibergi is present in different populations in both the northern and southern parts of Lake Malawi. They are found in both sandy and rocky parts of the lake. The males like to occupy caves and will fight off all invaders into their territory.
Care:
A. jacobfreibergi likes hard alkaline water around 76-82 degrees, although they will tolerate slightly higher or lower temperatures. Some salt may be added but they do fine without. As stated, A. jacobfreibergi likes a sandy to rocky habitat and caves should be included. Minimum tank size for a pair is 20 gallons.
Feeding:
A. jacobfreibergi fry are relatively large and can eat anything. Start them out with newly hatched brine shrimp. If you prefer you can start them out with infusoria and/or microworms. Adults will readily eat flake food, pellet food, adult brine shrimp, bloodworms and earthworms. In the wild they eat insect larvae and crustaceans.
Breeding:
A. jacobfreibergi are typical Lake Malawi cichlids. Wild fish do best when one male is in a tank with 4-6 females.A minimum tank size of 55 gallons, a 75 gallon even better. If you raise young to get a breeding colony, sometimes a second male in the tank will be fine. Caution must be used if you use two males. One, you should always use the best male for breeding and with two males in the tank you can never be sure who is fathering the young*. Secondly, two males living harmoniously together one day makes a great battle the next. Keeping a second male in another tank is probably best. Then you have a spare to step in when needed.
Fossorochromis
General:
Fossorochromis rostratus was first typed by Boulenger in 1898, yet you don't find many accounts of hobbyist spawnings until the last ten years.
Fossorochromis rostratus is a large, mouthbrooding Malawian cichlid that reaches lengths of up to ten inches. It's a large, fast swimming piscivore and you'll need a big tank to keep it. It's also a beautiful fish, but I have seen quite a bit of difference in individual coloration. As you'd expect, they are most dramatic when in breeding colors.
This is a fish for the intermediate to advanced aquarist who is patient. Males do not reach sexual maturity until they are at least eight inches long. Plan on allowing at least two years for a fish to get this big.
One curiousity about this fish is that when frightened, it will quickly dive into the substrate and bury itself. Fossorochromis rostratus can do this with remarkable speed.
Habitat:
Fossorochromis rostratus is found over sand and gravel areas in the lake and may co-habit these areas with Cyrtocara moorii. Fish found over the sandy areas tend be very fast swimmers and Fossochromis rostratus is no exception. In the lake, the fish spends a lot of time sifting through the sand.
Care:
Fossorochromis rostratus has similar requirements to most Malawian cichlids; hard water and temperatures from 75 to 80F. Provide a soft substrate such as fine gravel or sand as this fish can be damaged by it's tendency to dive into the substrate when scared.
Because this is a large fish, I recommend a 100 gallon tank for a group of six to eight individuals. Large fast-swimming fish like these do not do well in small tanks.
Feeding:
Fossorochromis rostratus will quickly consume a variety of prepared foods. When young, I fed Tetra Cichlid flakes and Spirulina flakes. As the fish got older, I fed Tetra Cichlid Sticks. I have not observed this fish eat live food.
Breeding:
Fossorochromis rostratus is very difficult to sex until it obtains very large sizes. Subdominant males look exactly like females! For this reason alone, this can be a challenging fish to breed.
toxicfish
12-30-2005, 7:03 PM
Hey Ash, how about some Info on this guy :)
That Aulonocara maleri?? Sunshine Peacock?
Ne who heres some info:
General:
Aulonocara maleri "Maleri Island" was first brought into the United States in the early to mid seventies. This is the fish that was originally named the "Sunshine Peacock". Since that time, no fewer than three other peacocks have been called that in the marketplace. Although fish such as Aulonocara baenschi are just as beautiful, A. maleri will always be the "Sunshine Peacock" to me. These fish were bred to enhance the orange color in some males and is the ancestor to the famous "German Reds" and the newer "Ruben Reds".
Habitat:
A. maleri are, of course, from Lake Malawi. I don’t know where they were originally collected, but my guess is from somewhere along the Tanzanian coast. They are presently no longer collected from the lake. A. maleri are classic peacocks. They love a sandy bottom and also do best when provided with several caves.
Care:
A. maleri likes hard alkaline water around 76-82 degrees, although they will tolerate slightly higher or lower temperatures. Some salt may be added but they do fine without. As stated, A. maleri likes a sandy to rocky habitat and caves and/or flowerpots should be included. Minimum tank size is a 5 gallon tank for one fish. They do best when kept in groups. For a group of 5 or 6 adults (1 male and 4 or 5 females) do well in any tank that is 36 inches long or over. They also do well as part of an Africa
Feeding:
A. maleri fry can eat anything. Start them out with newly hatched brine shrimp or if you prefer a quality flake food. They will also accept micro worms. Within weeks the fry will be large enough to accept white worms. Adults will readily eat flake food, pellet food, adult brine shrimp, bloodworms and earthworms.
Breeding:
A. maleri are harem spawners. Adult fish do best when one male is in a tank with 4-6 females. You can have more than one male but he will be harassed. My breeding colony consists of 4 females and 1 male. Each female produces approximately one spawn every five weeks consisting of anywhere from 20 to 30 eggs.
toxicfish
12-30-2005, 7:32 PM
That will work :thumbsup: ....When I bought it they told me it was a Turquoise Peacock.
uh they are turquoise in color? lol =) but I'll post some info on them also !
Aulonocara sp. "Turkis"
The Turquoise Peacock
First of all, lets state right up front that this fish does not occur in Lake Malawi. It is a man-made fish. It is not an atrocity like the Parrot Cichlid but rather a product of careful inbreeding of Aulonocara species to obtain a specific goal, a Turquoise Peacock. Who better to accomplish this then the Germans? This fish came over from selectively bred German stock about two years ago. There is not a real good picture on the web of this fish, so it has gone relatively unnoticed. Well, I’m here to tell you that this fish is unusually colored, very striking and, yes, turquoise. One word of caution, they are extremely slow to color up. It is not rare for a male to be well over a year old before he starts coloring up.
Habitat:
The Turkis, as it is called, is still an African Cichlid so it likes hard alkaline water and a temperature of about 80 degrees F. They love to dig, so give them plenty of gravel and plenty of caves or any other appropriate hiding place. The males are relatively non-aggressive and you can house more than one male in a tank provided you have plenty of room. Of course, one male and six to eight females is best. Somewhere around a 40 to 50 gallon breeder is ideal.
Care:
As with most African Cichlids, the Turkis is happy anywhere. Proper temperature, pH, hardness and weekly water changes of about 25% keep this fish happy and healthy.
Feeding:
The Turkis is a good eater and readily eats anything given them. As with all fish, you should feed a variety of foods. They attack earthworms, as well as, frozen brine shrimp, pellets and flakes.
Breeding:
The Turkis is, of course, a mouth brooder and a harem spawner. They are completely typical of their Genus (Aulonocara). Given adequate conditions and food, they will breed easily.
DeLgAdO
12-30-2005, 7:46 PM
wait your a staff memeber too?
wtf is going on? :confused:
toxicfish
12-30-2005, 11:26 PM
wait your a staff memeber too?
wtf is going on? :confused: LOL
mjime714
01-10-2006, 10:51 AM
Yo Ash, can I get some info on the Copadichromis sp. "Likoma Blue" (Ndumbi) please? Many thanks.
downset21
01-17-2006, 6:04 PM
I need suggestions ash... I just set up a 55 gal. tank at work. It is decorated with plenty of reef rock that I piled up to make hiding places and looks like a reef. The tank is 4 feet in length and 1 foot wide. I had pseudotropheus species before and wanted to try out new african cichlids. Can you put together a list of african cichlids that you would throw in a 55 gal. tank decorated like this? I'm not familiar with what is compatible, and it seems like you know this kind of stuff off the top of your head.
For some reason this didnt show I had any new posts in here grr I am SOOOOOO Horribly sorry I didnt get back to this sooner I promise I dont mean to let you down, Yes I will get your info on Copadichromis sp. "Likoma Blue" (Ndumbi) by 12pm tonight I have school 10am-10pm tonight x__X so I will do what I can I am so sorry it took me so long! and pseudotropheus are you going to be keeping any of that species in their still or no? If not I think I got a few ideas but I need to double check on sizes just to be safe =) I'll get back to you by tonight also, and do you know the pH level? Do you know are you looking for something cheap, or harder to get some of my suggestion you might have to order off either a seller on here or online somewhere?
mjime714
01-18-2006, 9:07 AM
For some reason this didnt show I had any new posts in here grr I am SOOOOOO Horribly sorry I didnt get back to this sooner I promise I dont mean to let you down, Yes I will get your info on Copadichromis sp. "Likoma Blue" (Ndumbi) by 12pm tonight I have school 10am-10pm tonight x__X so I will do what I can I am so sorry it took me so long!
Oh dont even worry about it. You are doing us the favor. I cant make you do it any faster than you have time for. Much appreciated Ash! Thanks.
downset21
01-18-2006, 6:22 PM
For some reason this didnt show I had any new posts in here grr I am SOOOOOO Horribly sorry I didnt get back to this sooner I promise I dont mean to let you down, Yes I will get your info on Copadichromis sp. "Likoma Blue" (Ndumbi) by 12pm tonight I have school 10am-10pm tonight x__X so I will do what I can I am so sorry it took me so long! and pseudotropheus are you going to be keeping any of that species in their still or no? If not I think I got a few ideas but I need to double check on sizes just to be safe =) I'll get back to you by tonight also, and do you know the pH level? Do you know are you looking for something cheap, or harder to get some of my suggestion you might have to order off either a seller on here or online somewhere?
I havent tested the water yet due to being very busy at work. there are no fish in it yet. I decorated it with reef rock, and tufa rock will be added shortly. I am told that these raise the PH. I plan on having a PH of at least 7.7. Money is not an issue so far. If the fish are under $20 each, I can deal with that. the tank is 4 feet by 1 foot.
downset21
01-18-2006, 6:24 PM
i agree, you take your time. I just finished school, so it's not lost on me how a 12 hour day like that can make you not want to do research on fish. focus on that stuff first and foremost.
Oh dont even worry about it. You are doing us the favor. I cant make you do it any faster than you have time for. Much appreciated Ash! Thanks.
=) Thanks, alright well I am having some trouble finding good info I think its gonna take me a little longer then I thought, not a fish I am that familiar with, There seems to be alot of them though, so for now I will post info on them just to give you a general idea about the Copadichromis, and hopefully by the end of the week I can find some good info for yah, they all seem to have some cool colorations too.
Copadichromis sp. "Mloto Fluorescent"
General:
This fish has just recently been introduced into the hobby. It is being exported from Lake Malawi by African Diving Ltd. of Sweden. Although they are predominantly an exporter of Tanganyikan fishes, they do export Malawian fishes also. To my knowledge, African Diving Ltd. is the only company exporting this fish to the U.S. and by the looks of this fish, they have a winner. It is presently grouped together with "mloto" type fish because of it’s overall appearance, although the name given this fish will probably change in the future. Given the color of this fish, it is aptly named "Fluorescent". It is one of a small handful of African Cichlids that have green pigmentation. As you can see by the photo, this fish has an iridescent green head and a blue body. Note: This picture was taken hours after arriving from Africa. This iridescent green is mindful of the color sometimes seen on Bettas and Guppys, but a rare commodity in African Cichlids.
Habitat:
This fish is found and collected at Hai Reef in Tanzania. According to African Diving Ltd, "It is a rare cichlid that may be found in sediment rich biotope where rocks meet the open sand floor. Females gather together in small groups seeking plankton some meters up from the bottom." Being this is a new fish in this country, some things must be assumed from other fishes of this type. From the colony that I have, I would say that they are semi to non aggressive with males attaining a length of 5-6 inches with females being slightly smaller.
Care:
Copadichromis. sp. "mloto fluorescent" require no special care. They, of course, love hard alkaline water with a temperature range of 74-84 degrees. A mixture of 2 parts non-iodized salt to 1 part Epsom salt will aid in digestion and prevent bloat. I use about 1 ounce of this mixture for every 15 gallons for water.
Feeding:
I feed these fish the same as everything else in my fish room. They are truly typical wild fish. Let a finger stray into the tank and they’ll try to eat that too. It’s amazing how quickly they adapt to dependency on humans. They are always the first ones scurrying about they tank waiting for food when someone enters the room. (Guess they read about Pavlov’s dogs.) I haven’t found a food that they won’t eat. At present, they have accepted frozen brine shrimp, earthworms (their favorite), bloodworms, pellets and assorted flake foods. I do make sure that they get a little more green matter, in the form of Spirulina, than some of my other fish.
Breeding:
I would presume it to be non-earth shattering news to declare that this fish is a mouth brooder. I have 2 males and 6 females in a 50 gallon breeder tank that has a variety of hiding places. This colony only arrived 2 weeks ago but from observation, the 2 males are typically territorial yet atypically not out for each other’s blood. They get along well, although it goes without saying, that 1 male is boss. Both males do however show equal coloration. They are fattening up nicely and I am starting to see signs of eminent spawning. The males are chasing the females, yet not one of the females shows any outward signs of being attacked.
Copadichromis sp."mloto likoma"
Size
Up to about 15 cm (6 in.), females smaller.
Food
Shrimpmix and newhatched brine shrimps.
Aquarium
At least 350 litres (75 gal.).
Habitat
Open water with sandy floors.
Breeding
There is no Info.
General
Copadichromis sp."mloto likoma" is a very popular cichlid i malawitanks. Like other Utakas it's best kept together with other peacefull cichlids like Aulonocara's and Labidochromis.
Copadichromis azureus
Size
12-18 cm (5-7 in.), females a bit smaller.
Food
Shrimpmix, but newhatched brine shrimps are good as variation because Copadichromis azureus feed on plankton in the nature.
Aquarium
At least 300 litres (65 gal.).
Habitat
In the intermediate zone between rocky and sandy floors, but they are most common in open water.
Breeding
Easy to breed, usually with over 50 frys per brood.
General
Copadichromis azureus is one of the most beautiful cichlids in the Lake Malawi. The males are metallic blue all over the body. Furthermore it is relatively quiet and peaceful which makes it to one of the most popular cichlids from the Lake Malawi. Females and juvenile noncolourated males are silvercoulered with three spots on each side, typical for Copadichromis.
Copadichromis borleyi
Size
Up to 18 cm (7 in.) females a bit smaller.
Food
Shrimpmix and newhatched brine shrimps.
Aquarium
At least 350 litres (75 gal.).
Habitat
Rocky habitats on a medium depth of 10 metres (32 ft.).
Breeding
No Info
General
Copadichromis borleyi belongs to the Utaka-group which consists of relatively quiet and peacefull cichlids, these could be a bit shy inhabitants in aquariums. They suits best together whith other peaceful cichlids like species from the genera Aulonocara and Labidochromis. To keep them together with other species from the Copadichromis genus you have to be sure that the females don't are too similar to each other.
Copadichromis sp. "viginalis gold"
General Info: Virginalis Gold has been found only in Nkanda in the northernmost part of Lake Malawi on the Tanzanian shore. The Gold's were first seen in 1994.
Size: 7-9cm -deeper dwellers (the shallow dwellers can max at 18cm)
Tank Size: 60 gallons
Food: Shrimpmix and newhatched brine shrimps.
Breeding: Takes place mostly inside a cave, the eggs are taken up immediately by the female and therefore probably fertilized inside her mouth. A 5-cm to 6-cm female released only 6 to 10 fry so far. That's apparently why these fish are so expensive, unlike Lake Victoria's Cichlid that has larger numbers of fry.
I havent tested the water yet due to being very busy at work. there are no fish in it yet. I decorated it with reef rock, and tufa rock will be added shortly. I am told that these raise the PH. I plan on having a PH of at least 7.7. Money is not an issue so far. If the fish are under $20 each, I can deal with that. the tank is 4 feet by 1 foot.
Also thank for understanding =) Okay Ideas I have in my head: You could try putting 7 Labidochromis caeruleus with some Neolamprologus of your choice they are shell dwellers, or maybe Aulonocara walteri they are rock dwellers maybe you could mix those in they grow about the same size as Labidochromis, Astatotilapia latifasciata you can also try a mix in with them they also grow at about the same size as the other two but are slightly agressive towards other males, You can also do Calvus which are very cool fish but can be agressive towards one another its an equalibrium issue, I ve owned a few my self and I absolutely love them but they grow extremely slow but good fish and tend be laid back they can prob. mix with other non-agressive africans even shelldwellers would be good with them also you could get a good amount of them in your tank but they can be costly something you would have to look around for prob., another is Pseudotropheus Tropheops Sp. 'red cheek' which should be able to mix fine also about the same size as all the others, this one is also near the same size not positive on mixing Aulonocara nyassae, Xenotilapia Sima llangi one of my favs but schooling fish best kept in schools but the tank might be too small for them I would say no more then 3 if you did, not easy fish to find but very very beautiful fish, Julidochromis dickfeldi you could mix in with some of those they get about 3 inches and are neat looking but only put in one they are very agressive towards there own kind, ulonocara maleri "Maleri Island" are also nice looking fish you can have about 6 of them to a 30-40gallon tank and like to be kept in schools, Also a mixed african tank may look neat I have an aturas, johanni, colbalt zebra, labidochromis carelus and a Pseudotropheus socolofi (powder blue), they all seem to get along fine its all about finding a neutrual blance in the number of fish. Anyways I hope some of those ideas help you out and give you some ideas!! =) Good Luck - post pics when its all done.
downset21
01-19-2006, 3:37 PM
im printing out your answer as we speak. Now I need to get the funding to finish the project. You're a life/time/headache saver. much appreciated.
im printing out your answer as we speak. Now I need to get the funding to finish the project. You're a life/time/headache saver. much appreciated.
lol just make sure you get the right mixes and it should be good ^__^ good luck!
mjime714
01-20-2006, 10:36 AM
NICE!! Thanks Ash for the info and taking the time to get it for us. Now.. where to find these fish....
lol ask you lfs to order them in for you or talk to someone on here that sell's fish =) or cichlids!! I know the feeling I am still trying to find someone who can get xenotilapia order in.
Katuluu
01-27-2006, 3:08 AM
Any plans on doing any West Africans?
Any plans on doing any West Africans?
Yah I can prob. add in some west and victorian. Any inparticular that your looking for?
Katuluu
01-27-2006, 9:27 AM
Steatocranus Casuarius has always been one of my favorites and is probably one many people don't know about. PLus their is a certain appeal about a cichlid that thinks it's a goby. :screwy:
Steatocranus Casuarius has always been one of my favorites and is probably one many people don't know about. PLus their is a certain appeal about a cichlid that thinks it's a goby. :screwy:
LOL alright I dont have much time to do it now but I can have it up by the end of the weekend, I am getting ready to go to school, so I should have some info up by sunday night =)
Sorry I am a day late! I been so busy :( bleh. Here is your info:
Steatocranus Casuarius (Lionhead cichlid)
Gen. Info: A fish with a strong personality that grows on the keeper. Although it is a bit on the aggressive side, the Blockhead is still recommended for many community tanks. Keep up tank maintenance and perform frequent partial water changes. An undemanding and amusing fish. Because of its small swim-bladder, the fish moves in a jerky-hops around the tank.
Max Size: 8-10cm (m) 5-7cm (f)
Food: Anything. Will take flake, live, frozen, or pellet, crustaceans, aquatic insects, Tubifex and plant matter, Very undemanding.
Water: pH range: 6 – 8; dH range: 5 - 19
Tempature: Tropical: 80 - 84 degrees
Tank set up: Likes rockwork and caves, river fish.
Breeding: Adult males have larger nasal hump, breed in caves, care for the young well. Also very agressive and territorial when breeding.
Scotty
02-04-2006, 3:07 PM
General:
Astatotilapia latifasciata, often sold as Haplochromis "zebra obliquedens" is an attractive, barred African cichlid first typed by Regan in 1929.
There is quite a bit of variation in the appearance of this fish. Bars vary from brownish to black and the underlying background color varies from creamy yellow to golden. Poor fish exhibit uneven bars or blotches. Larger males may exhibit a red blush on the breast portion. Occasionally, Astatotilapia latifasciata is confused with Haplochromis sp. "44" as males of that species also have red on the breast. I have observed large males without any red on the breast, but with a blue sheen on the face and gill covers.
Males top out at about five inches; females are somewhat smaller at 4 inches maximum length.
Habitat
Astatotilapia latifasciata is native to Lake Nawampasa and Lake Nioga in central Uganda, north of Lake Victoria. One source mentions that these two lakes are connected by a swampy area in the rainy season and that is why Astatotilapia latifasciata is found in both locations.
Care:
Astatotilapia latifasciata presents no problems. Neutral to moderately hard water is best and regular partial water changes are recommended. Some Astatotilapia latifasciata males exhibit aggression towards other males and sometimes females, so provide ample hiding places.
Feeding:
Astatotilapia latifasciata is an easy to feed, hungry fish. In the wild, these fish are insectivores. In the aquarium, they will stuff themselves with just about anything. I fed cichlid flake, spirulina flake, pellets, mysis shrimp and plankton. Be careful not to overfeed
This fish is also threatened these days. Apparently very rare in the lake. What a pity as the colour of the male is quite something, especially when he gets a little aggro. :naughty: :woot: :clap :headbang2 :thumbsup: :cry: :cry:
Scotty
02-04-2006, 3:45 PM
ASH, you are doing a stearling job here. I just hope the people appreciate the time you have spent obtaining the info. I hope your studies are going well. How about the Champsochromis caeruleus. What an amazing fish this is. :naughty: :woot: :clap :clap :clap :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
ASH, you are doing a stearling job here. I just hope the people appreciate the time you have spent obtaining the info. I hope your studies are going well. How about the Champsochromis caeruleus. What an amazing fish this is. :naughty: :woot: :clap :clap :clap :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Thanks a bunch sometimes it takes awhile for me to get back becuase I get so busy. So its nice to know that people appreciate this. I think it was a good idea b/c alot of people kept asking questions and some info is harder to find then others so I do what I can so people get what they need to know so the fish gets its proper care. Everything is going good so yay. The info you requested will be posted below I am looking up info on it now =)
Champsochromis Caeruleus
Common Name: Malawi trout
General Info: Champsochromis Caeruleus is found in Lake Malawi. This particular predator has a long slender body with a dark to metallic blue body and a red anal fin with numerous egg spots. In the wild the Malawi trout lives in the open water column. It is also seen over rocks as well as open sand. The trout cichlid is a pursuit hunter with a preference for Usipa, the lake sardine. This fish is one of the largest predators of Lake Malawi.
Max Size: 18 (inches)
Tank Recommendations: Tank Size: 75+ (gallons) ,Temp: 76 - 80 (Fahrenheit), pH: 7.8 - 8.8. A tank with a set up like this is most suitable: Provide a long wide tank for adults with a few caves and a sandy substrate. Also this fish doesnt leave you with a wide selection of other kinds of fish to keep it with but these guys are some ideas as to what they can be kept with: large sanddwellers like Fossorochromis rostratus or predators can be kept as company.
Food: Feed these fish a diet of quality flakes, krill,clams and nightcrawlers.
Breeding Habits: A territorial male constructs a large sand castle on the sand. A maternal mouthbrooder.
Just for kicks here is the Champsochromis spilorhynchus
Habitat information
Champsochromis spilorhynchus occur mainly over sandy and muddy substrates in Lake Malawi nd the upper Shire River. They are also found in Lake Malombe.
They occur inshore all around the lake and in the upper Shire River, but also extends well offshore. They are known as pelagic