I never thought of using putty knives..that might be a bit cheaper to use than rollers..looks like now i just need to wait for my glass to come in so I can get to work epoxying..
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My idea for a DIY plywood aquarium
- Thread starter Big Fish Freak
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I was thinking that would be the best route to go..much more strength and waterproofing with a chemical bond..
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Rollers might work better and faster for your build, especially when your applying it vertically.
I didn't use a roller for a few reasons. 1) I could move my tank around easily and everything was accessible within arms length from the standing position. 2) I was usually working on a flat surface, so I poured the epoxy onto the work surface, then spread it around with a spreader, then usually touched it up with a brush.
I may have used rollers if I was building a bigger tank. If you can't reach the back or bottom of of the tank, you can use extension handles for rollers, which may be necessary. Else you may need to work from inside the tank. When you got uncured epoxy in the bottom of the tank, then you can't work from inside the tank and you need to let it cure.
I was gonna try to use the putty knives as much as possible because I have read a lot of stories about the epoxy starting to cure on the rollers, and then it screws the whole applying method up..I may have to use the rollers for the sides and back but I will see what I can do with the knives..
I am gonna be working from inside the tank, and I will have help so I plan on starting with the front panel, then doing the two short sides, and work towards the center of the back panel. Once we finish the vertical sides, I plan on doing the bottom..I think this approach will let me get to all the places I need to get to with easy access..
With the tank as large as it is, 2-3 people could easily work on the inside and not be bumping into eachother, so it should work out fine, and the more coats we do, the faster we will be able to get it done..
So, while I am waiting for my glass, I have been thinking about plumbing this tank, and was unsure about how I should plumb the returns..The plumbing going to be on the short side of the tank..
I am debating on whether to have the plumbing come up over the side of the tank, or plumb a bulkhead into the tank..and what would be better in everyone's opinion, one outlet or two. I would imagine one because that means less head pressure being lost and making the pump work harder, but having 2 means I can create a better surface disturbance and gas exchange..
Anyone have any good thoughts or links to good threads? I have been searching but I can't find anything specific on the type of question I am asking..
I am debating on whether to have the plumbing come up over the side of the tank, or plumb a bulkhead into the tank..and what would be better in everyone's opinion, one outlet or two. I would imagine one because that means less head pressure being lost and making the pump work harder, but having 2 means I can create a better surface disturbance and gas exchange..
Anyone have any good thoughts or links to good threads? I have been searching but I can't find anything specific on the type of question I am asking..
I will be building soon and I will be doing coast to coast over flow into a Herbie over flow system. One Return line in.
As with using Knives to spread the epoxy.... You are much better off using a proper roller, foam or short Nap 5mm or 10 mm.
With knives on the walls it will be hard to lay down a film evenly and I know I heard people doing a pour method of laying down epoxy but you really have to be careful and check the spec sheet as each manufacture is different as with West systems epoxy there is a max thickness per coat the recommend.
Roller isn't bad just try to work fast and if available get a slow hardener for the resin.
As with using Knives to spread the epoxy.... You are much better off using a proper roller, foam or short Nap 5mm or 10 mm.
With knives on the walls it will be hard to lay down a film evenly and I know I heard people doing a pour method of laying down epoxy but you really have to be careful and check the spec sheet as each manufacture is different as with West systems epoxy there is a max thickness per coat the recommend.
Roller isn't bad just try to work fast and if available get a slow hardener for the resin.
Be mindful when you build your coast to coast where you put it..I planned mine out the way I have it, but when I went to put it together I realized that if I went according to my original plan, the overflow box would not allow me to put in my glass...So now it's a coast to almost coast overflow. I haven't found anything on max thickness per coat of epoxy, coolkeith may have some better info on it as he has been using the same epoxy I am going to use..I am still waiting on my glass to come in so I can start epoxying..I am getting a couple local glass shops to compete a bit for the piece of glass, so I'll see what I can come up with as far as lowest price I can get..right now it's at just under $550, which is not too bad, but I just talked to another guy who said he could do it for somewhere closer to the $450 range..
One of the guys said they would even deliver and help install the glass for me for free..He's an avid fish keeper, and is excited to see the build.
I am taking this time to explore my plumbing options and make sure I filled all the core voids in my plywood..I had one that went all the way through the sheet of plywood..it was in the middle layer of ply so I think it would have been fine, but I didn't want to take any chances..that one was a PITA..
I have also been exploring the idea of using plants as filtration too.. I like the look of plants coming out of the top of the tank..I think I will probably put some mangrove trees in there as they would make a nice natural looking habitat too..
I don't know what the thickness limit is for pours. However, I've poured some 3/4" thick fillets without any problems. All the pours I did with 100% MAX ACR went rather well, with most being around 30 mils thick.
I agree with Canamonster about not being able to lay down an even coat on the walls with knives/spreaders. The stuff self levels OK on a flat surface, but not vertically. If I was you, I'd look into buying some rollers in bulk. Get a contractors pack or about a dozen of them at a time.
One tip: After each coat you might have some unused epoxy leftover on the roller, roller trays, brushes, ect... You might want to make good use of that. I got a few coats of epoxy on the outside of my tank with my leftovers.
I agree with Canamonster about not being able to lay down an even coat on the walls with knives/spreaders. The stuff self levels OK on a flat surface, but not vertically. If I was you, I'd look into buying some rollers in bulk. Get a contractors pack or about a dozen of them at a time.
One tip: After each coat you might have some unused epoxy leftover on the roller, roller trays, brushes, ect... You might want to make good use of that. I got a few coats of epoxy on the outside of my tank with my leftovers.
I was planning the same idea!! was gonna use the leftovers to put the fiberglass on the outside corners just for some extra extra stability and strength. I will probably use them to coat the side of my tank where the plumbing will be, just in the event I spring any leaks in the pipes..
Okay, so after a very long and irritating break from the build, I am finally going to be finishing this thing up over the weekend. I have a few questions though about the epoxy and process.
First question, if the epoxy isn't going to be 100% cured when I apply the next layer, how do I support the glass window without damaging the epoxy?
Second question, can I do one face at a time without having any issues? like do one face and build up layers and then once that face is complete do another face?
Question three, if working one face at a time is acceptable, and I decide to do the front face with the window first, how many layers of epoxy should I have down before putting the glass down? my window is going to fit VERY snugly. I am going to use the epoxy to adhere the glass to the wood, and then I plan on going around the edge of the glass with silicone to fill in the (very small) gap that will be around the glass and frame. There shouldn't be any exposed wood on the front panel.
First question, if the epoxy isn't going to be 100% cured when I apply the next layer, how do I support the glass window without damaging the epoxy?
Second question, can I do one face at a time without having any issues? like do one face and build up layers and then once that face is complete do another face?
Question three, if working one face at a time is acceptable, and I decide to do the front face with the window first, how many layers of epoxy should I have down before putting the glass down? my window is going to fit VERY snugly. I am going to use the epoxy to adhere the glass to the wood, and then I plan on going around the edge of the glass with silicone to fill in the (very small) gap that will be around the glass and frame. There shouldn't be any exposed wood on the front panel.
