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Here's my setup ... I have 2 overflows that go to a drain since i'm a second floor. But, using the output from my drip setup can be used in your setup as the output to your drain, and since it's pressured by your pump, you can use it's head pressure to have waste water taken OUT of your...

Actualy it does not only top-off, It replaces the water that it taken out by the main pump. Also, the 'T' is on the return FROM your pump to the tank, so instead of having 2 pumps, one that works all the time, and a second that goes on/off, you use that single pump to power everything. Since...

option #3 : If available drain is between top water level of aquarium return line, Use a 'T' from the main return line and put your dripper on that line and use a float valve in the sump to keep your water level constant.

907 - 2 dead bodies + 4 new = 909 !!!

This is how I took care of the problem, notice the same setup as you. 2 Drains, using 1 1/2" PVC, the only thing that is required is a small hole a the top of the PVC on each drain. This does about the same thing as a Durso standpipe. You can check out my Gallery for more pictures ...

1/2 Gal / Hour on drip, So about 80 gals out of 130 (tank+sump) a week

Your overflow's size ... separate drain pipes ... getting smaller pump ... or are u keeping it the way it is now ?!

rdefino: any news on modifications ?!

The fact that both drain line meet to drain back down does limits your maximum flow, just think of the speed that is lost, changing direction for the flow slow's it down. If you give each drain it's own line to your sump will remove that problem, but will not make it 'magicaly' work as 2x2" ->...

The fact the your sump run dry if you open up the return valve is a sign that you dont have sufficent return from your over-flows. You dont say how much 'head' you pump has to work to get the water back to your main tank, but @ 16' of head your pump outputs about 1800 Gal/H and considering that...

For the Drip part, it only needs to be lower than the return to the 'Main' tank. The closer your drip output is to the level of the return for your main tank, the lower the pressure will be to the drip emitter but that can be taken cared of but putting a valve on your main line to create more...

PMK: It does take care of evaporation, but it also replaces the water you take out using the drip ... the drip goes to the drain, so all that gets taken out gets filled back up by the float valve. It's the simplest way i found and works as long that where you drain is at is lower than the...

I would put the drip on the pump or T-off from the main pump, and the water comming in on a float valve in the sump. Because in there's no power/pump failure in your setup, you are looking at a flood potential if it lasts long enough. If something can fail, it will usualy fail... and at the...

Since you're using independent containers, I'd be putting an overflow from container #1 to container #3 in case your filter media gets clogged ... just in case

There's also no value in the formula for the substrate, plumbing, etc ... that is also a factor in the total biological filtration.

Plus my 12 ... that 104 !!!

One thing to think of, is to put the temperature sensor up-stream so that when the heater does it's job, the heat comming off it does not affect it, only the incomming water does. I've done this in my Wet/Dry and the temperature is more stable.

Like all the above ... and I would add Red tail sharks ... my 2 Shark's often school with my CL's ...

Here's what I did for my return from my pump ... Drilled a 1/4" hole in the cap angled 45° down. It act as an anti-syphon and also does a bit of aeration with the opening just 1/2" aver the water level. You can check out my gallery to also see how I took care of the over-flows ... Hope...

Finally, one stood still long enough ... 1 out of 12 aint bad ...