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If you can make a tank, you can make an overflow box :)

1. With a sump, generally 4x turnover is good, so you're looking closer to 220 gph minimum. 2. Providing that you can fit everything you want to inside of it, yes. I used a 20H for my 55g's sump a couple years ago, worked fine. 3. I'll let someone else answer this one.

It's looking good!

Your broad generalizations about entire groups of people are REALLY, REALLY, cute. I really want to hear more of these. Do you know any about homosexuals? [/sarcasm]

Though I have no idea what's goin on in the S3 or iPhone 5, I can tell you that the move from the iphone 4s to the s2 was a happy one for me, and one that I would do over and over again.

That should be fine, but honestly (because I hate making mistakes that cost money), I would probably start with a 1/8".

Protip: Make sure that you drill the drip tray holes smaller than you think they should be, and run some tests and keep upping the hole size until you get it right. Drilling too small is fixable, drilling too large means you gotta buy more acrylic.

Personally, I would go with option 1. You can always add another outdoor pond, but the thing is, ponds are hard. Not in their construction or anything (though this sounds difficult enough), but in their maintenance and stocking. You are faced with completely unpredictable conditions due to...

There is a glass calculator stickied in this forum.

Yes, they'll be fine. (but you still shouldn't use ammonia remover :nilly: )

A good sponge should list it's density, it might be PPI (parts per inch i assume) or in pore size (micron). If you're looking for like, micron sized filtering, you might want to consider a cartridge filter of some sort, like one of those "big blue" whole house filters.

ALSO: get a new test kit!!! The strip ones are crap and humidity (uhh, common around a fish tank) can ruin them and make them read funny! You should defs get a drops kit.

Regardless of the salt content of your water, the nitrogen cycle operates almost identically. The reason why SW doesn't always need waterchanges is because of (A) the macroalgae that you were talking about growing using light energy to bind nitrates into more algae, and (B) photosynthetic corals...

We have a 400-425ish gallon pond in south Texas. From March-November the pond never drops below 72ish degrees. From november to march, the pond can drop as low as 45 degrees. We had it freeze over winter of 2010, but only to like, .5inch thick, and it was a really really crazy cold winter for us...

Uhh, I have no fish right now, but I was 12 when I joined MFK (I know, I know, TOS and such, twas the past) hahaha. At one point I had 200 gallons of tanks running, with my 75g being my brainchild. The 75 had 26x turnover (all filters, no "forthesakeofturnover" powerheads) and needed...

It definitely "grows" in my pond, I usually take a pack of scrubbies to it every 6 months or so. Just do it right before a water change and you'll be fine, albeit sore in the arms.

From what I have read, terrestrial plants in emersed conditions seem to be the best way to "denitrate" safely. They're cheap (free if you can get a pothos cutting) and can be added to anywhere in the tank where they can hang. They have the added ability to look really nice, and if you start...

They make intake screens, look at aquatic eco, they work fine.

30% Aluminum oxide? Doesn't sound safe. But it might be. This is probably no cheaper than regular ceramic rings, it's only 4x4x.75 for 4 bucks.

I would argue that scrubbies are better media than ceramics in sumps because of the fact that their surface area will not be all but lost in 1-2 months on the job.