Just did a water change and have a couple questions.

[xraycer]

The water change helped and the ammonia is back down to zero. Will definitely be adding that to my routine. The only reason I went so long without one is because I have a friend that had a saltwater tank for over two years that never did one water change. All he did was replace the evaporated water every once in a while. He didn't even know what ammonia was when I asked him about it lol. How did he go so long with no problems but I didn't even go 2 months before I had an ammonia spike?

This is just a quick synopsis: If a tank is cycling properly, ammonia and nitrite will be a zero regardless if you do wc or not. Wc are mainly for physically removing nitrate. Nitrate is not nearly as toxic as ammonia and nitrite, but high levels and prolong exposure can cause health issues and/or death......depending on the senstivity of the species of fish.

 

[predatorkeeper87]

just up your WC's until your tank catches up. .5 won't be overly terrible for a few days....

what ragin said about making your life easier. Put together a DIY water changer....or buy a python. Either way you are going to look at WC's in a whole new light...I did the 5 gallon bucket thing for far longer than I should have...never again lol.

 

[Yuki Rihwa]

Water change just to remove nitrate, Ammo and Nitrite should always at 0 ppm at all time, about your friend never do any WC and just replacing water each week, I got 1 tank (fresh water) that goes for over a year without any water change (I'm doing this for my own experience), the tank having 9 comet goldfish 3 inches in 60 gallons with a sump filtration and heavy planted tank (mostly java and anubias, golden pothos), feeding 1 time a day and skip 1 day a week, Ammo/nitrite always 0 ppm and Nitrate below 20 ppm). Also, i knew 1 of my LFS never do water change in their shop, they are just replacing water that evaporated and they are run their shop for over 20 years

 

[ehh]

Please don't go months or years without doing water changes.
I do believe fish can live for a long time by doing that. But I do believe those fish are healthy? No.
Nitrates do cause damage to different internal organs over time. And nitrates are removed by water changes.


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[muttley000]

I imagine the sand will practically be cleared up by the time I go to bed. My tank cycled fairly quickly. What ammonia removing additive would you recommend?

I don't really recomend using one because you shouldn't have to. In a bind Amquel or similar can make your ammonia into a less toxic form, you still have to do changes to get the bad stuff out. It sounds like you just didn't have a robust enough cycle to me. In a well running system even a fish dying in the rock work can not cause a spike.

 

[muttley000]

Please don't go months or years without doing water changes.
I do believe fish can live for a long time by doing that. But I do believe those fish are healthy? No.
Nitrates do cause damage to different internal organs over time. And nitrates are removed by water changes.


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Agree! Even if you use a algae scrubber for the nitrates and phosphates, elements are being used up and created that can't be tested for.

 

[tlindsey]

Please don't use a python to refill your marine tank

I python the water out, and use buckets and a pump with tubing attached to refill. Less lifting, aside from carrying buckets of saltwater upstairs...

+1 When I had salt setup's made up salt water in a Brute garbage can for wc's, always checked salinity level before hand. I would still use 5 gal. Buckets to remove and add the made up water.

 

[GlennDalton]

It depends on what type of fish it is. Goldfish have gill "rakes" that protect their gills from sand and silt. Any fish that can be described a "beneathic" - something that eats critters buried in the bottom will have gill rakes. If your benefical bacteria is properly established ammonia should not be detectable. You may need more bio-media. I have found SeaChem's Matrix to be the best made. There are several minerals that will absorb ammonia. Zeolyte is one. You can then "recharge" it by exposing it to salt water. For ammonia emergencies like you have 10PPM ammonia and your out the door for work you can use SeaChem's Prime. It traps ammonia and it's descendants for 24 hours. For really bad ammonia levels you can use up to 5 times the normal dosage. It's the best of products. Takes care of heavy metals,chlorine and like chemicals and chemicals in the ammonia cycle. Most people use something called a "python" to change their water. There is a modification you can make so the water doesn't go down the drain and your can run a hose out the window and water your plants or store it in barrels. If anyone wants information on how to modify their pythons so the water doesn't go down the drain Pm me.

Best of luck and healthy fish to you.

Glenn

 

[GlennDalton]

I always pour the water onto an upturned bowl sitting on the bottom. Or you can take one of those Fluval 1' by 2" by 1" foam filters and make a cut in the middle along the inside of the center. That way you can slip it over the hose your are using to negate any strong flow that will be displacing sand.

 

[GlennDalton]

I used to use 12 5 gallon buckets in order to fill my tank back up. I re-injured a repetitive motion injury I had gotten working at HP. Having to lift those heavy buckets over my shoulder and pouring them into the tank. Remember water weighs at least 8LBS per gallon making each bucket at least 40 LBS. I eventually bought a sump pump to move the water. It can suck dry a 100 gallon tank dry in less than a minute. Which is a great time saver on the regular maintenance of all my breeding tanks. I don't want this hobby and my breeding goals to be major time sukage. Do you have chlorinated water? I always treat the water BEFORE I change the water. Many people don't. I think that's just asking for trouble. It takes only seconds to damage your bacteria or your fish's gills.

Best of luck,

Glenn