Part 1—Sump or Not?
What size pump should I use? Overflows? Should I go with a Sump or
Canisters on my tank I’m ordering? How do I set up my sump?
These questions come up over and over again on MFK. So, this document is intended to compare options, and to present what I think is a pretty good design for most situations.
The first question to answer is whether you want to use a sump or not. The answer is yes if your tank requires more than 2 or 3
canisters to be properly filtered. Sumps are usually MUCH cheaper than canisters. In freshwater aquaria, they can be configured to be much easier to clean than a canister, too. But....cleaning 2-3 canisters? You get the idea. I’d say any tank bigger than 180 Gallons should be filtered with a sump instead of a canister.
Sumps provide a place to put injured fish, and fry. They take all the equipment out of the
display tank, and move it into the sump--CA Cichlids break stuff sometimes. And they get violent with each other when they all run for the same hiding spot when you put your arm in the tank to adjust the heater. Sumps alleviate most of that. Sumps make drip systems possible. Tired of doing water changes? Well, you don’t have to anymore if you have a drip system. Sumps let you grow plants in the tank water, but the fish can’t tear at them. Those of you considering growing Pothos plants in tank water to reduce Nitrates might like the room a sump provides to grow those plants without fish nipping the roots. Sumps mean you don’t need airstones to “aerate the water” anymore. Sumps are a great place to keep
sponge filters on hand and cycled if the need arises. And sumps are just roomier.
There are some disadvantages to sumps….not many, but some. Sumps require some planning. Sumps require some extra effort to run silent. And sumps will probably require you to DIY.