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Plants utilize Oxygen and create CO2 at night. If you're on the high side with your CO2 (which by looking at your pH swing you are) you'll see the color change. Planted tanks do not have fixed levels of anything ever. There is a constant rythmic flux which means you need to affect the...

They are great, but 50% wc daily? Might as well get a perma-python (drip system) if you're doing that large a wc daily.

Unfortunately it's Malaysian driftwood.

Yeah don't do that. Ro/DI waste water wouldn't be acceptable unless you diluted it with a similar amount of water that you removed. Think on it this way. If your RO/DI system tosses 4 for every 1 processed, that means the 4 waste gallons are now 20% more concentrated than prior. So you...

That's beautiful.

The pH for each plant is different, check a few online resources to get the "preferred" pH for the plants you like and go from there.

Yep. You just will need to match your outflow and sump depth to get the desired level increase and decrease.

You are usually supposed to cut the lid. Typically theres a "perforation" mark where you should cut. As for your heater, make sure it's submersed if it is a submersable as it can crack and then you'd get a jumpstart when the element is exposed to water.

Just setup a sump with the return pump on a timer.

Some low light plants will die when hit with a drastically greater amount of light, but for the most part, no one would sell those as they're rather unsightly.

Fungi are technically plants, so tank fungus will thrive with no light.

I bet you are low on trace or iron. A good csm +b or iron chelate based trace (like Flourish trace) would probably alleviate your issues. Water lettuce requires a decent amount of potassium, and competing with the other plants may leave it in short supply.

Agreed.

FYI a firemouth won't beat up an oto. A firemouth wil eat an oto.

Apple snail.

Yep, yours too. The entire US has an invasive species of one type or another that has affected citizens economically.

Any tanin-heavy wood will work.

BB for the most part, is such a simple organism that temp swings within a reasonable range won't affect them at all. I wouldn't be too concerned until you started talking a 20 deg F change.

You could just go with a wet dry cannister setup like the Eheim pro 3 series. Best of both worlds with no overflow worries.

Ok guys, you're reading it backwards. PAR is a component of intensity. Intensity is not a component of PAR. PAR can fluxuate without a change in intensity, but if your intensity wanes your PAR also wanes. Yes, there is more to it but I'm fairly sure no one wants to perform integral...