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Filtration and heat depend on the type/size/quantity of fish, where the tank is located, and the amount of light over it. My 125 has 2 AC110's, 2 Rena XP2's, a Fluval 304, and 225g rated wet/dry running 500GPH. Six 36" flouro tubes running 2x overdriven. One 200 watt stealth heater, and three...

Egg crate all the way, held in place with extra heater suction cups. Bigger fish are seperated but the fry can move freely between the two sides so they "enter at your own risk" to the "lunch deli" side.

One filter a week with 50G WC's. Equates to once every 5 weeks or so.

Though it may be a pain, drain it down to the bottom plastic trim. Use that as a reference and shim it with "door shims". Used for installing doors, they can be had in bundles at the big box home stores for cheap. Once the tank is level on the trim, start filling it back up and use a tape...

Rally hit it. It depends on lots of things. A 55 with 4 Tiger Barbs needs way less turnover and attention than the same tank with an Oscar. My 125 has 2 AC110's, 2 Rena XP2's, a Fluval 304, and a 225 rated W/D running 500 GPH. With a "moderate" load of medium to small fish, and modest...

Check the local glass shop for a replacement pane.

My gold Sev. Raised from smaller than a quarter, and hand fed to bigger than my hand. Going on 4 years old and quite possibly the most docile fish I've had/have.

Around here the stuff is bright white in the tank and makes the fish washed out looking. I prefer a play sand/general purpose sand mix. More natural looking IMO. Dirtier and longer to rinse, but darker in looks.

Sad to hear. Condolences to all.

I guess time tells in this case, but personally, I would be a little leery of putting any metals (excluding SS) in contact with the water. Al corrodes over time as well as most others. Thanks for the post though, I think I can "see" your idea/setup, but the "canal" would be better (IMO) made...

2.5g's W/D per ~500g's tank volume ?? I have more than that on my 125 now with a "minimal stock list/load. Got any references on this ? Seems to me "status quo" to be very minimal, but I, for sure, don't know everything.

Nice setups, mine pales in comparison, both in tank size and filtration.

They won't float in the tower of a W/D where they get trickled over, but they will float in a tub just like bioballs.

That does look pretty good. The back and sides idea would add to it even more.

fishdance: Right now, the plans are for 8'x4'x24" ~479g's (large to me anyway). I've not researched this internal design, but it would seem to require a substantial amount of the tank space. My undertank sump plans were for a standard 125g, and I am questioning if that's going to be enough...

Thanks Rivermud, I'll check it out. On further thought I guess it would be just having 2 4 inch stand pipes in the middle of the floor.

Or, a $3.00 25w blue party bulb in an old unused ceramic fixture and an unused dimmer. Lots of options, this is only my cheap,broke,recycle way. The dimmer does allow me to vary the "moonlight" from min.(cloudy waning moon), to max. (clear full moon).

No comments, flames, or anything ?? I am a gineau pig on this?

#1, you could use an inline solenoid on the supply line that will close on power off, preventing a flood. #2, you could also set up a gravity drip from a 2 litre bottle of prime to control cloramines. #3, you could plumb an inline heater into the supply line for the drip to pre-heat it before...

If I built a large plywood/glass tank, what do you folks think about this idea for draining to a sump underneath. Instead of the typical setup with standpipes/weirs across the back or in the back corner/s, Why not just cut 2 4" squares in the center of the bottom with acrylic/glass square tubes...