Replacing Bottom Glass & Cutting holes

FunkSkunk

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Nov 11, 2005
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I've found a great deal on a 225 gallon glass aquarium for only $75, the catch is the bottom glass is broken. I have done this before with my 90 gallon and it wasn't that hard. Just took my time and carefully removed the old broken glass, got a new piece cut, then silicon, cure, test, and now its all good!

My question for the monster 225 is what thickness should I get, I'm assuming 1/2 inch because thats what it is now. Also who makes a 225 Glass? I checked All-Glass and Oceanic but neither make a 225. What price range am I looking at?

Now the glass has a hole that was drilled and that is were the glass is cracked at, I'd like to have overflows drilled in this tank as well but I'm wary since this one already has broken at that very point. I've talked with one glass company who said they could cut the hole but that they wouldn't recomend it. The guy told me that "the aquarium companies have a special way they cut the holes to make them stronger." ???WTF??? After doing some research all i've found thats special is the expensive diamond hole cutter you need to get to cut it. Is that guy correct or what? Where in the tank and what size hole should i get cut, if I do go that route?? (As you can tell I'm a newbie about overflows, sumps, etc.) - and I know not to use tempered glass

Basically I need some advice - sorry for the long winded question :D
 

softturtle

Piranha
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Jun 9, 2005
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I think the bottom of these big tanks are tempered glass. I know you cant drill them but most of the time they com drilled. Am I correct in thinking that temperd glass is regular glass heated up or something like that? If so they are probally drilled then tempered.
But this could be a load of crap, I really don't know.
 

sohfatfish

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May 7, 2005
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Tampered glass has a film in between that prevents it from shattering out i think. If you are going to drill the bottom glass for overflow, build an overflow box into the side of the tank then drill the hole there. In this case the pressure from the water is not exerting on the hole itself but the partitions of the overflow box.
 

repair

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Jul 12, 2005
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You might be able to get a piece of glass from perfecto ( they are build aquariums ) in Noblesville Indiana.

Here is their number 317-770-7900
 

Ornatapinnis

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Sep 28, 2005
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THis is not as easy or safe a job as removing the old and replacing with a new sheet. The problem is that silicone does not stick to it self. When you cut out the old, there will be residual silicone on all the surfaces you need to mate up the nes sheet to. It will be a weak bond and a disaster is most likley what will happen.

If the bottom piece is in tact but cracked and all the seams are still glued to the sides and in good condition, how I would fix it is to silicone a sheet of glass either over the damaged area or more diffacult but better, silicone a sheet over the entire inside of the bottom of the aquarium. THis way the first bond (which is the best bond) is still in tact to hold everything together. It sounds as if all you need to do is seal up the area that would otherwise leak and have protection from additional runs in the glass if the water pressure caused any. Use the same thickness glass as is currently installed.

Drilling holes in glass is pretty straight forward, the diamond bit or the carbide type are the most common method, both are safe for aquarium use. THis size tank should have no less than two 1" drains in it.

Any good glass shop can cut and drill this but many freek out when you mention the word aquarium. If you take them a very accurate drawing of what you need with the hole location, it should be easy for them. THey don't need to know what it's for. I use GE's type I silicone for building aquariums.

Keep in mind, I've never seen this aquarium. Without seeing it I can't say for sure this is the way but I am positive that you cant just remove and replace with out having a major problem To do that, you will need to completly dissasemble the entire aquarium, have all the edges re surfaces either mechanically or chemically, then silicone it all back together. I have built and repaired many glass aquariums, some very large in the 500 to 1000 gallon range and even one larger. I've done it the wrong way before in my early attempt at building & repairing, it's a mess!!!

THe price is great, I'd buy it and re build it. YOu cant buy just one of the sheets of glass for that price. If you don't buy it, forward me the info, I have a project I'm doing this spring that the glass would be perfect for.

Joel
 

FunkSkunk

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Nov 11, 2005
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Ornatapinnis - you said "The problem is that silicone does not stick to it self. When you cut out the old, there will be residual silicone on all the surfaces you need to mate up the nes sheet to. It will be a weak bond and a disaster is most likley what will happen."

But i plan on cutting all of the silicone out and thorughly cleaning the area where it was. I'm not going to leave anything. Is glass porous? How is there residual silicone after ai cut/scrap/and acetone the glass?? Are you talking about sanding the area? Please explain, my 90 gallon is fine after about 3 years of use. I know that is nothing compared to the 225 tank though.

also what does - "YOu cant buy just one of the sheets of glass for that price." mean? If you mean the cost of the glass only being $75 I know it wouldn't. I'm expecting something in the $200 range.

I would love to see a pic of the tank too, but I'm not located near the seller... hopefully this weekend or so I'll post up a pic.

Thanks for your help so far though :thumbsup:
 

guppy

Small Squiggly Thing
Apr 15, 2005
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According to the chart it should be 16mm for the bottom.
 

Ornatapinnis

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Hey, sorry for the slow responce. was real busy today.

Experiance has taught me that you can scrape all day long and there will still be residual silicone left over. I have had 3 glass tanks that we built on sight that we have had to move afterwards that were to big to remove from the bulding in one piece. After razor blading all the edges for what seemed like forever, when I misted water on it, you could still see lots of silicone still present. What I do is mask off the area that need cleaned and either use a belt sander with a carbide sleeve to "polish" the edges and mating surfaces or I use an acid on these areas. When I'm done I have a dull, whitish surface that is clean, silicone free glass. At that point, it is safe to silicone back together.

I don't know of you will be able to get the existing pieces as clean as would be desired. If you overly chemically clean (acetone) you may damage the existing silicone in the corners that hold the sides & face together. What would you do in the bottom corners where you need to leave the existing silicone in tact? I'm just saying it's very risky removing and replacing. I am very experianced in building glass aquariums and I would not feel confident repairing it that way.

What I ment was that $75.00 is a steal. I was pointing out how great a price that is and that you would pay much more money than 75.00 for just one of those pieces of glass if you went to a glass shop and ordered one, you getting them all for super cheap!!!!

If I can offer any additional advise let me know...Joel
 

FunkSkunk

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Nov 11, 2005
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ok, I've got the tank finally! Well it is in rough shape but i think its fixable. Here's what it looks like, and I'll post a pic when i can. Not sure if freebie members can post up pics directly or if I'll have to post them remotely.... anyway..........

The tank is 6x30x24 the plastic top and bottom pieces are the cheap fake wood grain look. There are 3 overflow holes in the tank, and one acrylic overflow blocker thing (sorry don't know the correct term). The bad part is the plastic surronds are busted badly on one corner - I'm sure that needs to be replaced,right? The crack is on the middle hole and its real tight, not a jagged nasty one, you can barely see it, so that is good i guess. Still a crack though. The overflow acrylic thing is on one end of the tank in middle of the side - aka not a corner overflow. and the other two holes are in the middle of the tank? the location is good for overflow but to me that seems like a weird spot for them. I know this would be much easier if i had a pic to post up!, soon ....

Here are my thoughts so far on fixing the beast
- instead of replacing the glass, buy a thinner piece to put on top of the current glass (as you guys suggested already) *But what about drilling for the overflow? Is that ok to do, what about those other two wholes (3 in total)? I'm not sure how to use them.... sorry it's got me pondering.

- One of JCashion and my friends is a metal fabricator he had the following idea (i'm not in agreement with him at this point) But i'm posting it to hear your thoughts. / take a piece of 3/16 sheet metal and cut to fit the bottom of the tank on the inside? or outside? (can't recall which he said) and have it powdercoated. then silicone it to the tank. He said powdercoating is super safe and wouldn't put any chemicals in the water. To me it sounds like adding another hundred pounds to the beast!


Ok, i can't think of anything else right now. This tank is insane big and heavy, took 4 guys to move it. Ok let me know your thoughts. :thumbsup:
 

guppy

Small Squiggly Thing
Apr 15, 2005
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White vinegar and very fine sand paper works to remove the silicone residue.
 
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