Wet/Dry filter noise - HELP!!

Try adding a few gallons to the sump.

As the pump pumps water out of the sump, if there isn't enough in the tank, it will empty the sump before the overflow can catch up. If you have enough water, then the water level in the tank should always stay the same, but if you add or remove water, the level in the sump will change.

That may not be the problem though. Try sticking a bit of air tube down the overflow pipe. That lets air escape (I think?) and reduces the noise. I did that on my tank, and it makes it a ton quieter.

Your pump may be too strong. If the return pumps water faster than your overflow can handle, it can cause a noise like a toilet flushing. This happens when water fills past the top of your overflow. Water pressure (by weight) builds up and forces water down the overflow causing a siphon effect in your overflow. This will suck the water very quickly into your sump until it hits the level of your overflow opening at which point air will enter the overflow with a huge sucking sound. Then the cycle will repeat itself over and over which could be the cause of the fluctuation you see in your sump. You might want to try putting a valve in-line with your return pump and adjust the flow rate down.

That's the main downfall of drilled tanks, they can actually handle less flow due to the fact they are a strictly gravity fed system rather than a comparably sized overflow box which uses a controlled siphon in the U-tube.

If your standpipes (overflow pipes) don't look like this link, you should consider making some. They are way quieter than other designs. Check it out...
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

dabears54;1754783; said:

it definitely doesnt look like that...is the top of that pipe, the part sticking out of the water open? and other than that it is just a pipe with an "L" joint on it?

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The top has a cap on it with a very small hole drilled in it. The size of the pipe needs to be slightly larger than your bulkhead. If you have a 1" bulkhead, you need your standpipe to be 1 1/4" (inner diameters). The top of the pipes need to be a couple of inches above the tank.

I promise if you try it you will not be dissapointed with the reduction in noise you'll see. It'll cost you less than $20 in PVC and maybe an hour in time.

Here's the link from the same site to build your own...
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/BuildYourOwn/tabid/54/Default.aspx

Basically all you need (assuming you have two 1" bulkheads) are two 1 1/4" to 1" reducers, 5' 1 1/4" PVC pipe (for a 24" tall tank, add another foot for a 30" tall tank), two 1 1/4" Tee fittings, two 1 1/4" 90 degree elbow fitttings, and two 1 1/4" caps. I like to use all slip fittings.

After you get them assembled, you can spray paint them black with Krylon Fusion and you can hardly see the part sticking out of the top. Just check out the "build it yourself" link. It's pretty self explanitory. If you need any help, just shoot me a PM.


***EDITED TO ADD***
I didn't use pieces 2, 3, or 5 as described in the link. I slipped a short piece of 1" PVC into the bulkhead, then the 1 1/4" to 1" reducer bushing (female on both ends) onto that short piece. Then the 1 1/4" longer pipe onto that and so on.

dabears54;1754911; said:

thanks a lot man - really helpful - will probably head to the hardware store tomorrow to put something together

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No problem. Shoot me a PM if you run into any snags.