If i were to...

If i am willing to help my fellow MFK'ers


  • Total voters
    46

CichlaRyan

Piranha
MFK Member
Jun 24, 2008
2,725
47
81
Land of sun
make a care/info sticky on pbass who would join me by adding there personal experience with bass and information that they know is true?
i just want people to have better luck with there fish you know..:headbang2s


lol pass you guys know i meant pbass lol!
 

mjuniorc

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Oct 16, 2007
2,801
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Fish Room
first off, show your expierience's... and we will see if we can add on!!!
so tell us what do you know about CiChLA, besides the name peacock bass....?:ROFL:
 

bwid713

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 26, 2007
136
0
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Pittsburgh
Post your care/info sheet, if the mods feel its worth while they might make it a sticky.
 

Guerillah

Gambusia
MFK Member
Jun 25, 2008
153
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16
40
USA
I feel there should be a sticky for care of pbass. You have to search a lot of threads to find enough info about them, and even then there are a lot of conflicting views.
 

CichlaRyan

Piranha
MFK Member
Jun 24, 2008
2,725
47
81
Land of sun
so its settled i will post my person info and you guys will addon 3 cheers for helping fellow MFkers with peacock bass knowledge and btw if you help what aever you say in the thread i will include your name so you take credit.
 

mjuniorc

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Oct 16, 2007
2,801
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Fish Room
hahahahahaha... caught you doin alot of searching other threads... just to make it happen...:ROFL:
you need to share youre experience in order for it to work... not copy everyone else's comments and paste:ROFL:

if i can remember... i BELIEVE you said you use to breed pbass.. and sell them.... but i have yet to see any of your pea's... so pls.. SHARE... your pics... & EXPIERIENCE.... key word ( YOURS!!! )
 

mjuniorc

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Oct 16, 2007
2,801
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43
Fish Room
something else hit my mind also.... i think your someone i know on here... that changed his name again:ROFL:
 

CichlaRyan

Piranha
MFK Member
Jun 24, 2008
2,725
47
81
Land of sun
hhahhahah your so wrong its funny i was looking threw some old threads i saw laying around on the similar threads on the bottom of my screan then i came across a couple "hoped to be stickys" and just looked and read them to see if there is anything that i can add from that thread btw when i said add not copy paste i mean look see if therers anything i like then re-right it with my own knowledge pretty much mixing it with what i know. im not some loser who this hes smart by going are copying and pasting other people work even if its wrong. but anyways your so wrong in every ways its just made me chuckle. and next time please know your right about something then tell someone your this or that becuase you may just be WRONG!

and if you want to see what i summed up in about 15 min here it is ENJOY!!

Okay well I know this isn’t the best info but here it is.


Basic care for Peacock Bass

Peacock bass have always been a loved species of South American cichlid for a long time from the smaller seven stripe Cichla Intermedia to the superior and speckled Cichla Temensis. Peacock bass have had a ranged history in both fishing and in more advanced Section of Fish keepers. Many fish keepers chose to listen to the needs of the fish, other chose to listen to there wallets. Either way some/most people don’t always do as the fish needs, some times simple errors you cannot see will and may end fatal to your more sensitive Cichla’s. Each species has its own range in pH, Water hardness, Ammonia ,Nitrites and Nitrates the basic parameters.

Cichla Ocellaris
Temperature – at small size anywhere from 82-86 bigger sizes (5in+) would be 79-84
Size- 2ft they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in couple months
Tank Size- for a single ocellaris a 200+ would be better but a tank with a larger width than 27in would be better. For schools 2+ go for a 300+
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto
Breeding- myself, I have never breed ocellaris it is possible but will require talent and you must think like the fish. The standard I have used to try to breed my bass is about ph 7.5 water hardness half soft half tap. I never have ammonia because it is a big risk factor for sensitive fish like peacock bass. (Please add here I’m not to sure about this part)

________________________________________________________________________

Cichla Monoculus

Temperature- at small size a range would be 82-87 they can withstand a little bit more heat then the ocellaris at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 80-84

Size- 2.25ft-2.35ft they grow to max size in 1-2years. But if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger then recommend tank ; in 6-8months.
Tank Size- they will need a bigger tank then ocellaris preferably 240+ for a single mono for groups 350+ they will probably need a bigger then 350 but I don’t think that any 350 has any width less thank 30in correct me if im wrong on this.

Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.

Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)

Breeding- Tongue there all yours. All I know is that monos can stand 6.5-7.8pH during breeding regular pH is 6.8-7.2


Cichla Orinocensis

Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-90 they can withstand the most heat in the Cichla Family at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-85 or maybe even lower.

Size- 2ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 6-8 months.

Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 200+ for a single for groups 300+ they will probably need a bigger then 300.


Attitude- very very very aggressive towards spawning this goes for this Cichla. But normal behavior would be aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.

Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)

Breeding- there are steps for orino’s one you see that your orinos have paired off take them and place them into there own spawning tank or else they will kill everything in that tank not exaggeration. I have heard that even a 150G will do but I would go 200+ don’t add substrate add a large flat stable rock because I don’t know if this applies to all Cichla or only orinos but they will lay there eggs on the rock raise temp to 84 apply a little AQ salt and wait for nature to take its course. Once eggs are laid wait for 1weeks till they hatch and parents lay off the spawn. Then either remove parents or fry.


Cichla Temensis

Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-87 they can withstand a high amount of heat. At a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-84.

Size- 3ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 1-1.2 years.

Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 300+ for a single for groups 450+ they will probably need a bigger then 450.

Attitude- to me there not aggressive at all at smaller size I haven’t yet had a problem with one hurting another but as they grew up they teamed on one and would have killed him if I didn’t take him out. They have to be aggressive during spawning but I don’t know anyone who has mastered tem’s.

Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)

Breeding- I do not know helps me here people.



Well there you have it people what I know on every basic species im not going to go into Azul and Intermedia because I highly doubt a regular peacock bass keeper will run into these without them being a fake. The people who have these have to be experienced and know what they are doing.



 

bOOsteN aUdI

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Apr 1, 2005
6,444
593
174
38
East Coast
lol that looks copied anyways i think you should have to search for your info... you learn more that way then someone just holding your hand
 

Morledzep

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Apr 26, 2007
1,789
4
0
where my cichla are
i can tell you what has worked for me.. but i'm not gonna treat each type of pbass separately.

i got all but 3 of my pbass as tiny guys.. i kept them in tanks with the temp between 82 - 88 degrees.. the PH in all of my tanks is 7.6 and i do water changes to keep the TDS below 300 PPM and the nitrates at or below 40 PPM.

i test my tanks every other week, unless something doesn't look right (an extra test now and then when you're not sure never hurts). and i do water changes only as needed by the results of the testing, usually once a month, sometimes as long as 6 weeks because of the stocking level in each tank.

when they are tiny 2" - 3" i feed them frozen brine shrimp, frozen blood worms, and frozen krill. i feed the babies once or twice a day.. but i do NOT do power feeding to make them grow faster. i want them to remain healthy and grow at a natural rate.

at about 5" i start just chopping up market shrimp and catfish nuggets and add these in to the feeding rotation. Somewhere around 8" or 9" they start losing interest in the smaller foods (brine shrimp and blood worms). I've never had a fish refuse frozen krill no matter how big they are.. it seems to be an all around favorite.

Usually around this point i start adding more variety.. small hunks of chicken breasts, halved chicken hearts, small hunks of tuna and salmon, small hunks of beef heart.. i tried some lean pork one time, but it was a resounding failure.. not even the catfish would eat it.

i use RO/DI water for water changes and keep crushed coral under the decorative gravel in the bottom of the tank. i use the gravel vac rarely.. and then mostly to only get the pleco crap off the top of the gravel. i think, other than changing tanks, i've only actually "changed the diapers" thoroughly once or twice..

we tried to buy freshwater clams to help control the nitrates.. and either i never had enough or the fish were eating them.. i still keep finding empty shells now and then on top of the gravel.

I've never fed live fish intentionally, but i've had a couple cheap community fish that i've used to establish a tank get eaten. i believe that feeding live food increases the aggression level in the tank and increases the possibility that they will try to eat each other.

i think i'm probably doing something right.. i have 14 peacock bass: i've only lost 7 over the years, 3 tems to a tank crash while i was on vacation, 3 tiny orinos to crayfish (chalk this up to bad advise), and 1 4" orino that i can only assume was eaten by one of his brothers.. because i never found the body.. lol.

this is purely my experience, i'm not a scientist, all i have is what i've learned in the process of raising my fish.
 
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