Breeding snails

fenton06

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Jan 10, 2009
81
0
36
Ankeny, IA
Ok, so I've searched and searched and everyone talks about having bred snails, but I can't find any info on their setup or HOW to actually do it. Maybe I'm just over thinking everything?

I have a clean, bare bottom 10 gallon that i would like to raise snails in, but other than needing a tank I have no idea on the best way to actually breed them. I think i would need a small heater to heat the tank (any specific temp?), but do I need an air stone or something of the sort? What kind of filtration if any? Floating plants? I think this would be a fairly simple process I just have no idea how to do it. I think feeding them lettuce or cucumber slices is ideal from the little information I have found.

There are some yellow snails at walmart I have my eye on that actually look fairly healthy, but my LFS is going to be getting some snails in at the end of next week and I would be much more comfortable buying the snails from them.

You are all probably wondering why I actually want to breed snails, and that I can buy XX amount for cheap online. I am purchasing a few (3) clown loaches to go with my oscar and would like to feed the snails to the loaches on occasion after the snails are breeding, and down the road I am planning on getting some puffers so I would also be feeding the snails to them as well as the hard shell is good for their beak.

Hopefully this turns into an informational thread for future reference or others looking into doing this. Thanks!
 

Edwin

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Aug 16, 2007
1,243
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34
Whittier,Ca
just put 2 snails together and bam... baby snails will come out.. thats how i do it...
 

Dr Joe

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 8, 2006
10,664
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Sixty Miles South of Tampa Florida
Aged, dechlorinated / dechlorimined water.

pH 7.5 ish.

Hardness, medium to slightly hard.

temp - 75*F - 78*F (heater optional, dependent on ambient temps) but keep temp stable.

Air driven Sponge filter (one that works with an air stone (small bubbles) is best).

A couple broad leafed plants Weighted to thr bottom of course (real is better, but not necessary)

A small light (if real plants) and to help with a little algae growth (food for the snails and bio-filter for the tank ;)).

25% W/C once a week.

A small piece of cuttlefish bone (like they use for birds) for minerals.

One or two shrimp pellets as needed.

A lid (snails come out of the water following the mineral trail (calcium etc. buildup at the water line as water evaporates) if they don't find it in the water.

And a few mature snails to get things started.

If fish won't eat the snails, crushing a couple usually does the trick (puffers like apple snails).

That's pretty much it, a background and gravel just cause cleaning and visual problems.

Dr Joe

.
 

fenton06

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Jan 10, 2009
81
0
36
Ankeny, IA
Thanks for the info Joe, but could you elaborate on the sponge filter with an airstone? I'e been searching and just can't find anything.

Any suggestions on plant types? I'm not too familiar with live aquarium plants unfortunately.
 

albirdy

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
May 5, 2008
361
0
0
37
Bay area, California
For plant questions, you should go to the plant forum :)
it depends on your lighting, tank size (height, esp), gravel, use of ferts, co2, etc.
 

Lupin

Viviendo la vida loca!
MFK Member
fenton06;2810001; said:
I have a clean, bare bottom 10 gallon that i would like to raise snails in, but other than needing a tank I have no idea on the best way to actually breed them. I think i would need a small heater to heat the tank (any specific temp?), but do I need an air stone or something of the sort? What kind of filtration if any? Floating plants? I think this would be a fairly simple process I just have no idea how to do it. I think feeding them lettuce or cucumber slices is ideal from the little information I have found.
Fenton, what species of snails do you plan to get? Bear in mind some snails are sexual and some are asexual. MTS and pond snails are asexual. All apple snails, assassin snails, nerites, Sulawesi snails (Tylomelania sp.) and many more are sexual.

As far as aeration and filtration, combine both using a sponge filter. You can add another filter but be sure to cover the filter intake with a sponge or you'll find the snail sucked into it to death. As much as possible, buy a battery operated airpump in case of emergencies and power outages. Your sponge filter will work as a temporary filter as well during power outages.

Most snails prefer cooler waters so a heater won't be an issue although if the room temperature falls below 70 degrees Fahrenheit, then a heater is a must.

Most snails eat plants. Pomacea canaliculata, Asolene spixi (hybrids with Marisa cornuarietis and babies), Pomacea insularum, Pomacea haustrum and Marisa cornuarietis are all voracious plant eaters. Pomacea diffusa (formerly called Pomacea bridgesii), assassin snails and nerites are not plant eaters on the other hand.

All snails need calcium in their diet. Unless your water is hard and alkaline, then you will need to dose calcium as well as increase both the KH and pH to avoid shell erosions. In most species, KH isn't an issue particularly Sulawesi snails (Tylomelania sp.). Increasing pH and KH involve the use of crushed corals, crushed oyster shells, plaster of Paris blocks, marble chips, aragonite or limestones. Eggshells with membrane removed and cuttlefish bones are also used but both can rot easily in the tank. Liquid calcium by Kent is also used but as it is calcium chloride, the pH will not be increased except the KH.

See this thread for homemade snail food recipes. I use snail jello and plaster of Paris pucks. Use Dap brand for plaster of Paris. As much as possible, focus on calcium enriched foods. Collards, rehydrated seaweeds and turnips work.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135871

For breeding, it depends on the eggs. If you are looking for mystery snails, then the eggs are laid above the waterline. Leave 2-3 inches space above the waterline and seal the tank or else the snails will escape and smash their shells when they hit the floor. Incubation of eggs can be found here. The warmer the temperature and the more moist the environment, the faster the eggs will hatch. Don't leave it under the light too long or the eggs will dry up. Leave five weeks. If by five weeks, the eggs fail to hatch, dispose them. Poke one with a toothpick before disposing them. Egg color is another indicator. If it has not changed much, then the eggs are definitely infertile.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131187

See this one for legality issues on ownership and shipping.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173265

There are some yellow snails at walmart I have my eye on that actually look fairly healthy, but my LFS is going to be getting some snails in at the end of next week and I would be much more comfortable buying the snails from them.
I would rather buy from msjinkzd. She has plenty of colors available at the very least and sell them at $3.00 each. PM her if you want her snails. If you prefer to buy from your LFS, make sure they are in good condition. Most of the snails bought from chain stores end up dying after a few weeks. Be sure their water is free from copper traces which can weaken and eventually kill the snails.

You are all probably wondering why I actually want to breed snails, and that I can buy XX amount for cheap online. I am purchasing a few (3) clown loaches to go with my oscar and would like to feed the snails to the loaches on occasion after the snails are breeding, and down the road I am planning on getting some puffers so I would also be feeding the snails to them as well as the hard shell is good for their beak.
Stick with pond snails and ramshorns for this one. They're more prolific and you don't have to put much effort into raising them.
 

Lupin

Viviendo la vida loca!
MFK Member
fenton06;2816305; said:
Any suggestions on plant types? I'm not too familiar with live aquarium plants unfortunately.
If you are looking for plants that are undemanding, stick with Java ferns, Java moss, anubias, hornworts, Egeria densa, Nymphaea lotus, Cryptocoryne sp., vallisnerias and dwarf sags. Most plants like the Heternanthera zosterifolia require a lot of lighting and fert dosing in order to grow.
 

Pyramid_Party

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Aug 6, 2008
4,916
4
68
Monterey, CA
I got a little snail colony going on in my shrimp tank. I didnt even do anything for it to happen. One day I noticed two tiny snails and they grew and then one day I noticed little globs of eggs in various parts of the tank. Snails started hatching and now I got a decent amount of them. They still lay eggs too. These are pond snails by the way. I have them in a 10 gallon with shrimp, I have sand, some java moss, a few Crypt. Wendtii plants, an aqueon 10 filter, and a small sponge filter with pump and a 50 watt heater. I keep the temp at 79. My water is hard and alkaline and this is good for snails. Acidic water is bad for their shells, it will cause them to have weak shells.


They eat whatever I put in the tank. I sprinkle a little fish flakes or crush a cichlid pellet or an algae wafer. They havent damaged any plants either.
 

Chris E

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 31, 2009
136
2
0
New Zealand
Ramshorns are very easy to breed - I have a small tank out side for raising mosquito larvae which has some in it and they have no problems multiplying.
Never had to do anything for them.
 
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