Information on Malawi Haps

mike dunagan

Feeder Fish
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Nov 11, 2006
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Lets comply information on Malawi Haplochromis a starter guide for members to seek general information about "Haps". Imagines are terrific, but please include information as well. Please include sources.

Haplochromis are open water fish from Lake Malawi.

We will start with general information about Lake Malawi.


Lake Malawi (also known as Lake Nyasa, Lake Nyassa, Lake Niassa, and Lago Niassa in Mozambique), is the most southerly lake in the East African Rift valley system. The lake, third largest in Africa and ninth largest in the world, is situated between Malawi, Mozambique, and Tanzania. It is also the second deepest lake in Africa but its placid nature at its northerly shore gives no hint of this feature. The lake's tropical waters teem with more fish species than any other lake on Earth.
Lake Malawi is between 560[1] and 579 km long[2] and is 75 km wide at its widest point; its total surface area is approximately 29,600 km².[1] The lake is bordered by western Mozambique, eastern Malawi, and southern Tanzania. Its largest tributary is the Ruhuhu and its outlet is the Shire River, a tributary of the Zambezi.[2]
Lake Malawi lies in the rift valley formed by the East African Rift where the African tectonic plate is splitting in two. This is called a divergent plate boundary. The lake itself is approximately 40,000 years old.[1]
It is approximately 350km south east of Lake Tanganyika.

[FONT=&quot]The water in [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Lake Malawi[/FONT][FONT=&quot] is typically alkaline with a pH of 7.7 – 8.6, a carbonate hardness of 107 – 142 mg L-1 and a conductivity of 210 – 285 µS cm-1. The lake water is generally warm, having a surface temperature that ranges from 24 – 29 °C (75 – 84 °F) and a deep level temperature of 22 °C (71.6 °F).[/FONT]

From Wikipedia
 

Marius

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Haplochromine

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A venustus cichlid, Nimbochromis venustus


The haplochromine cichlids, subfamily Haplochrominae, are a grouping of genera including Haplochromis plus a number of closely related genera (such as Aulonocara, Astatotilapia, and Chilotiplapia) endemic to eastern and southern Africa. Haplochromines inhabit both rivers and lakes, but it is the lake species that have been most closely studied because of the species flocks known from some of the larger lakes, such as Lake Malawi. Haplochromines are therefore typically divided into four groups:[1]

Among aquarists, the term "haplochromines" is often used exclusively to refer to the open-water, often predatory species as opposed to the predominantly herbivorous rock-dwelling mbuna.[citation needed]







wiki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haplochromine
 

mike dunagan

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Haplochromis are not actually called Haplochromis at all, well not anymore. There are three groups that "Haps" can be broken into Utaka, Predatory, and Others. The term Utaka like other terms used with lake Malawi fish is a local word that we in the hobby have borrowed. Most of the Utaka are from the genus Copadichromis, and inhabit the open water just off the the cliffs. They mouths of these fish have delevoped into protruding shape to help them feed more affectly on the sooplanton. They are often found in schools feeding.

The Predtory "Haps" is typical largem and prey on other Malawi cichlids. The preditory haps are not confined to any particular space. They are often found hunting in all types of enviroments. Some of the genus in the Preditory haps are Tyrannochromis, Naevochromis, Nimbochromis, Aristochromis, Dimidiochromis, Taenochromis, Champsochromis, Exochochromis, Hemitaeniochromis, Lichnochromis, Buccochromis and Stigmatochromis. All Predatory "Haps" are mouth brooders, and spawing in captivity is not as common. Most batches will contain 50-250 eggs. The number of eggs depends on the species, but also on the size of the female.

The "other" group consists of "Haps" that do not fit into the other two (Utaka or Predatory Haps) cateogories. This group includes genera as Fossorochromis, Otopharynx, Cheilochromis, Tramitichromis, Chilotilapia, Protomelas, Cyrtocara, Taeniochromis, Mylochromis, Placidochromis, Hemitaeniochromis, Ctenopharynx, Hemitilapia and Sciaenochromis. "The last genera, Sciaenochromis, is actually made up by predatory cichlids but is not counted into the Predatory Haps group since Sciaenochromis fish are much smaller, and also less aggressive than the other Predatory Haps. The “Other Haps” group includes herbivore fish, such as Hemitilapias, as well as insect eaters like the Placidochromis."

Sources:

http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/cichlid/haplochromis.php
 

mike dunagan

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Tank setup. When setting up a tank for the home a few things need to be taken into account.

1. Size
2. Rocks
3. Substrate
4. tankmates

1. When it comes to these fish there is a bit more trouble than just plain peacocks. One issue is picking which of three types of Haps you are going to keep. Once this choice is made we can look at the tank. If you go with any of Utaka you can try a smaller tank. (A few of the others can work, but you want fish that stay smaller around 5-6 inches) A 120 4fter can work, but I would recommend a larger 6ft tank. If you were to do a species only tank a smaller tank maybe expectable. I have seen fish work in a 55 or 75. Size of the tank makes a world of difference. A standard 55, 40L, and 40B can work, but keep an eye on them, it could turn ugly fast. You can easily put a male with a group of females. Notice that these tanks are at least 4ft long or like a 40 breeder, deep. This allows females to escape males. Rock work and other factors will need to be looked at as well. With any of these setups, it is important have places for the fish to break line of sight. I and other have breed without breaking line of sight, however it takes a little more work and you can lose fish. If you are considering any of the preditory haps, you will want a bigger tank. Each fish will require something different depending on ultimate size and aggression. So a broad stroke is not a safe bet. So I will not attempt to make one. The bigger the tank the better! The others, well that depends on the fish. It is better to look at the specific fish and make the comparisons then.

2. When it comes to rock with it really it up to your taste. I would not add too much. Most haps will only need these to escape other tankmates, and of course for you looks. My smaller haps, really enough the rock work. The larger haps however, have not taken to the rocks as well. Open space is best for them.

The rocks that work best are Texas Holey Rock, Rock large river rock, and even lace rock. When picking rocks, try to get ones without sharp edges. In an all male tank you will have chasing and edges can cause eye loss or death.

3. Substrate is key. Haps for the most part need sand. They use it to make nests, or to pick through the top of the sand to eat. I have found that sand that is half way between a gravel and a fine sand works best.

4. Tank mate- Like peacocks, I have found small rock dwelling tangs work well. I have also found that peacocks make great mates for Utaka or some of smaller other haps. Often people put Haps with mbuna. I have found that in the long run the haps health suffer. They often stress and die. The larger haps, well they often eat the smaller tank mates.

Source: Mike Dunagan
 

paulW

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Jun 12, 2008
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Here are some notes based on my personal experience.

I think Haps benefit from a taller tank. It's not all about floor footprint with these guys. My current tank is 30" tall, which works out great. I can have a layer of rockwork on the bottom (maybe 8-12" high, covering about 2/3 of the bottom). I have have some rock dwelling africans living in the rockwork, yet have plenty of room in the mid and upper water for Haps and Peacocks.

You have to be careful not to have too many males of the same species or simliar coloration. There needs to be enough room for the other fish to get away if spawning is happening, or if a male is tired of sparring.
I have a few really large caves that a tired, submissive Red Empress will sometimes take refuge in. The cave is exposed enough that the Mbuna really don't use it.


Off the top of my head, here are the non-Peacock and non-Hap inhabitants that I have in the tank now.. all get along fine. I would avoid the overly agressive Mbuna.

Pseudotropheus saulosi
Labeotropheus trewavasae
Yellow Labs
Neo cylindricus
Neo Lelupi
Metriclima Aurora
Cy. Afra
Jewel cichlid
Pseduotrophis Red Top
 
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joncynot

Feeder Fish
Oct 17, 2010
1
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NY state
I have a 220 gallon: 30" height which works well for haps. I recently removed the females of n. boadzulu and left 2 males which calmed the whole scene down. The male boadzulu excludes all fish from the breeding site resulting in all inhabitants having to live in half the tank (6' length). Now the only females are 2 l. albus with 3 males and several c. afra (minos reef) with a gorgeous male and 3 p. saulosi with 1 male. Males: 1 n. venustus, 3 c. moorii, 1 p. electra, 1 s. fryeri. Non cichlids: 3 chocolate plecos for algae control and 2 large clown loaches to eat those darn snails which clog my very large Eheim cannister filter. Peace has returned.
 

smokey JOE

Feeder Fish
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May 1, 2011
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just a bit from my experiance if you must add mbuna to a hap tank wait till the haps are alot bigger seems to curb the mbunas aggro (a bit) heres some of the species ive kept from the great rift all with a * i still own

nimbochromis venustus *
nimbochromis fuscoteaniatus*
copadichromis borleyi/ red kadango
dimidiochromis comprecciceps*
aulonacara hansbeanchi*
aulonacara beanchi
pseudotropheus elogatus yellow tail*
pseudotropheus pollit
pseudotropheus zebra gold
pseudotropheus crabro
pseudotropheus demasoni
haplochromis brownae
protomelas taeniolatus red empress
synodontis njassae
synodontis multipunctatus wild group of 3
ive had a few more but cba
 

JAYBIRD1011

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Jun 5, 2017
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Wilmington NC
just a bit from my experiance if you must add mbuna to a hap tank wait till the haps are alot bigger seems to curb the mbunas aggro (a bit) heres some of the species ive kept from the great rift all with a * i still own

nimbochromis venustus *
nimbochromis fuscoteaniatus*
copadichromis borleyi/ red kadango
dimidiochromis comprecciceps*
aulonacara hansbeanchi*
aulonacara beanchi
pseudotropheus elogatus yellow tail*
pseudotropheus pollit
pseudotropheus zebra gold
pseudotropheus crabro
pseudotropheus demasoni
haplochromis brownae
protomelas taeniolatus red empress
synodontis njassae
synodontis multipunctatus wild group of 3
ive had a few more but cba
 

JAYBIRD1011

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Jun 5, 2017
329
578
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Wilmington NC
So, I have this synodontis in my tank now. He’s about 8 1/2” to 9”. I’m thinking of buying some peacock babies @1” size from a local breeder. When these guys get bigger, should my synodontis be okay?

BFA3EB2B-C0A0-4491-B43E-6E3461FE6A20.jpeg 7D588FE3-3C30-4644-BB21-3DCE6F2AAA66.jpeg
 
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