Salt water ick treatment

guppy

Small Squiggly Thing
Apr 15, 2005
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confused, lost, and lonely
this is a thread prepared by water-baby, very nicely done.
since salt water ick is almost as big a problem for salt tanks is FW ick is for fresh this sticky should come in handy for those of you with salt tanks.

Ich Treatment Part II - Saltwater

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Among the numerous ailments fish are suseptable to in the home aquaria, one of the most commonly occurring, and equally devistating diseases dealt with are the several strains of Ich. Now keep in mind that I said several. Though there are many different treatments, precautions, cures, and so forth for each particular strain, the one of focus for this sticky is Marine Ich which falls into the classification of Cryptocaryon irritans. Cryptocaryon irritans are a ciliated protozoan. Ciliates (Phylum Ciliophora) are one of the largest groups of protozoans and all posses cilia or compound ciliary structures for food acquisition or locomotion at some point in their life cycle. Of the some-odd 7200 species that have been described, around one third are ecto- and endo- commensals and parasites (Ruppert and Barnes, 1994).Cryptocaryon irritans are obligate ectoparasites, which means that it is an external parasite that needs the fish host to complete its life cycle. The name 'Marine "Ich"' has been dubbed because it is essentially the marine equivalent on Ichthyophthirius multifiliis.While the two species of ciliates have superficially similar life cycles and signs, they have been found to be only distantly related.

BASIC INFO

C. irritans has a four stage life cycle. The parasitic stage (trophonts) is the one that results in the appearance of white spots all over the fish. The trophonts burrow under the skin where they feed on body fluids and tissue debris. When the trophonts first infect the fish they are small but grow as they feed and so the white spots are initially small but get larger as they mature. Once mature, they drop off the fish and sink/swim down to the substrate where they encyst and begin to reproduce. In this stage they are called tomonts. After a number of days in which the tomonts divide, the cyst ruptures, releasing the tomites. Tomites may differentiate into theronts, the infective stage, which actively seek a host to reinfect.

When the theronts are embedded in the skin of the fish, the fish may secrete a thick layer of mucus in response to the irritation and they are protected from outside influences. This makes treatment of infected fish difficult. There are many symptoms your fish may display when infected, however some of the most common are clouding of the eyes (in cases where the eyes become infected). Fish may also scratch or "flash" against rocks or substrate because of irritation, show a loss of appetite, and laboured breathing, especially when the gills are infected. Some fish may even jump out of the tank, in the attempt to escape the conditions.

SUGGESTED TREATMENTS
There are two proven methods for the treatment of Marine "Ich", which are copper and hyposalinity. Neither the copper or hyposalinity methods can be used in the presence of elasmobranchs (sharks and rays) or invertebrates, so treatment must be performed in a seperate quarantine tank. Hyposalinity is the preferred treatment as it is not dangerous to the fish and actually eases osmotic stress on the fish. Hyposalinity can also be performed in the presence of calcareous substrates. Hyposalinity is adjusting the salinity of the water to somewhat less the that of natural sea water.


How do you treat with hyposalinity?.....

It is very important that you can accurately measure the salinity or specific gravity of the water. Cheap hydrometers do not have enough accuracy. If the salinity is too low, it is possible the health of the fish will be compromised. If the salinity is too high, it may have no affect on the parasites, as discussed above. A Refractometer is the safest method for measuring salinity. If you don't have access to a refractometer, a lab grade floating glass hydrometer should suffice.

The goal is to reduce the salinity of the water to between 12 and 14ppt and leave it at that for at least 4 weeks but preferably 6 weeks. The salinity must be lowered gradually to give the fish time to adjust to the lower salinity and more importantly, ensure the bacteria in the biological filter can adjust. It should take around 2 days to get from 35ppt to 14ppt.

Your starting point should be between 1.025 and 1.027. Replace about one fifth of the volume with RO, RO/DI or aged freshwater that has been well aerated. Repeat this 12, 24 and 36 hours later, monitoring the specific gravity along the way. After the fourth water change the specific gravity should be 1.010 or pretty close. Wait a few hours to make the final adjustment to get down to 1.009. Note that you can estimate the resulting specific gravity. If you are changing one fifth of the water and the current specific gravity is 1.025 the result will be:
* ((1.025*4)+1.000)/5 = 1.020 approx.

Then, after 12 hours:
* ((1.020*4)+1.000)/5 = 1.016 approx.

After 24 hours:
* ((1.016*4)+1.000)/5 = 1.013 approx.

After the 4th change:
* ((1.013*4)+1.000)/5 = 1.010 approx.

Water temperature influences specific gravity and if you heat water without changing the salinity the specific gravity will decrease. As the goal is to keep the salinity between 12 and 14ppt it is important to know the temperature as well as the specific gravity. What temperature should you use? Some people have argued that raising the temperature is good because it speeds up the life cycle of the parasite. While this is TRUE, the elevated temperature also raises the metabolic rate of the fish causing increased oxygen and energy consumption and somewhat negating the benefits of the hyposalinity. Temperatures close to "normal", (those the fish are used to), or only slightly higher will be the best. Ensure the temperature is taken into consideration for the specific gravity.
While the fish are being treated it is extremely important to monitor the pH and specific gravity. Unless you are treating in a well established tank with an established biological filter there will be a tendency for the pH to drop and this must be monitored. This can also happen in an establish tank due to the lower salinity. If the pH starts to drop, water should be changed or buffer very carefully and added to the system. If the fish are sick, rapid changes in pH will only cause more problems.

The specific gravity also must be monitored as excessive evaporation due to temp. increases will cause the salinity to rise and possibly create suitable conditions for the free swimming parasite. If the salinity does rise, it may be necessary to extend the length of the treatment after the salinity has been lowered again.

Hyposalinity should be maintained for at least 4 weeks but 6 weeks is preferable. If there is any reinfection of the "Ich" during the treatment, the treatment should be extended to at least 4 weeks after the disappearance of the last cyst.

When the treatment is complete, the salinity should be raised gradually to normal over a number of days. Water changes with normal or even high salinity water is the easiest way to get the salinity up. Calculations using averages, as before, can be used to determine the appropriate specific gravity of the replacement water. If you replace one sixth of the 1.009 water with water at 1.025, the specific gravity will be raised to 1.012:
* ((1.009*5)+1.025)/6 = 1.012 approx.

As the salinity approaches normal it will be necessary to either replace more water in each change or use water with a higher than normal salinity. If you have been treating in a quarantine tank, you will need to leave the display tank with no fish in it for at least 30 days. This will ensures that all remaining parasites in the tank have gone through their full life cycle and the infective forms have died.

Summary
* Isolate the fish from any invertebrates or sharks and rays

* Lower the salinity (specific gravity) to 12-14ppt (1.009 @ 27°C) over a 72 hour period

* Closely monitor the pH and specific gravity

* Do regular water changes with low salinity water

* Keep the salinity (specific gravity) at 12-14ppt (1.009 @ 27°C) for 4-6 weeks, or at least 4 weeks after the last disappearance of the "Ich".

* Raise the salinity to normal over a 3-7 day period.

* Leave an untreated display tank fishless for at least 30 days

TREATING WITH COPPER
Copper is toxic to both fish and invertebrates and must be used with care. As calcium carbonate absorbs copper, copper cannot be used in tanks with calcareous substrates, such as coral sand or shell grit, or with coral decorations. Copper should not be used in the presence of invertebrates or elasmobranchs. Copper is not very stable in sea water and the levels must be continuously monitored. There are several medicines available at your LFS which include copper in the treatments, and with each, the directions may very. It is important to note however that when going this route, special concern needs to be applied in order to ensure positive results, especially since ALL fish are susseptible to Ich, but NOT all can handle copper meds! If you are convinced you want to use copper meds., one I have used in the past with fairly positive results is Cupramine brand copper treatment.

Medicating with Cupramine Copper:
* Use copper to treat protozoan infections.

* Remove all invertebrates (crabs, shrimp, anemones, etc.) before medicating.

* Remove chemical filter media (carbon, Chemipure, Poly Filter, etc.) during treatment.

* Build up slowly. If tank has never had copper before, use no more than one drop per two gallons each day for first two weeks. Thereafter, one drop per gallon is a full dose. Discontinue treatment temporarily if ammonia or nitrite levels rise.

* Use test kit to determine copper level before each treatment. If level is zero, you may add a full dose of copper (unless still in "build up slowly" stage). As level approaches .30 ppm, use a proportional amount of copper (for example; if test shows .15 ppm, use 1/2 drop per gallon of Cupramine).

Always always follow the instructions listed on the container, this is only basic guidelines for this treatment!
 

Atarax

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 14, 2006
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I have recently contracted Ich from a Regal from my lfs. they recomended "kick ick" for treatment have i made an error in buying it? does it not kill ick in SW tanks?
:WHOA: :WHOA:
 

ewurm

Aimara
MFK Member
Jan 27, 2006
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I didn't know their was saltwater ick, thanks for the info!
 

guppy

Small Squiggly Thing
Apr 15, 2005
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I have not used ruby reef's kick-ich but have found a couple bad reviews for it, the way it works is to stimulate extra slime coat production in hopes that new motile forms can't latch hold. It does not kill the organisms but tries to breack the reproduction cycle, even the manufacturer reccomends using it with there other product RALLEY so I would be leery of it alone.
 

water_baby83

Feeder Fish
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Jan 30, 2006
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guppy said:
I have not used ruby reef's kick-ich but have found a couple bad reviews for it, the way it works is to stimulate extra slime coat production in hopes that new motile forms can't latch hold. It does not kill the organisms but tries to breack the reproduction cycle, even the manufacturer reccomends using it with there other product RALLEY so I would be leery of it alone.
I agree, the problem with those types of medications, like guppy stated is that they do not actually help the current infestation - therefore, it becomes virtually useless IMO. By increasing the slime coat production alone, you MAY prevent further infection, however it will NOT stall the trophonts already embedded into the epithlium (skin). Because of this it cannot be assured that the reproductive cycle will be halted, generally because slime coats are shed, and re-build, so any time frame where a thick layer was not established would open the door for another infection.

P.S - Thanks for posting my thread Loren (Guppy,LOL)!:)
 

Atarax

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 14, 2006
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Gainesville, Florida(Go Gators!)
ok so kick ich didnt help for crap. i have switched to RX-P, although i do not have a protein skimmer, any ideas on the effectiveness of this product. the kick-ick has already cost me my butterfly, blenny, wrasse, and a damsel. :swear: :swear:
 

Max

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Sep 21, 2006
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I hate it when people reply to old threads but, that having been said I'll do it anyway. I would never treat my main set up with copper if you have or ever want to keep inverts. I would also avoid the use of meds that contain nitrate or nitrate based compounds if I had inverts in my tank.
It's a very simple thing to set up a q.t. I would strongly recommend that you use one for introduction and treatment of any ailments.
hth
Here is a link which may be of assistance: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=591357#post591357
 

AnDr3w

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Sep 8, 2006
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Davie, FL
What I like to use for saltwater ich is buy a cleaner wrasse or a cleaner shrimp.
 

Kdcarey

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 22, 2007
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cleaner wrasse???? nvr seen or heard of
 

leongray

Feeder Fish
Nov 29, 2007
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alabama
i was told by a specialty marine fish dealer to maintain salinity at 1.015 on a regular basis to avoid problems. what do you think?
 
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