225 setup with bricks???

Demonfish

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Oct 23, 2005
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I am finally setting up a 225 gallon tank that I got last year sometime. The dimensions are 6 feet (length) by 2 feet (front to back) and 2 and a half feet (tall). The only problem that I am having is that there is no center brace across the top of the tank. the tank is used, I put all fresh silicon in, but I am still bothered by no center brace. What I am thinking about doing is setting up a center brace inside the tank using bricks (as in the stuff used to build houses). I'm wanting to make a center brace with them inside the tank and have it maybe upwards of 24" tall with a hollow spot in the top/middle for the fish to swim through a little easier. Also I'm wanting to use bricks as decor to kind of make it look like an old house or barn scene that was flooded out (maybe to build a lake?) long ago. My only concern at this point is, are bricks safe for fish? I know a little about how they are made, compacting rock, sand, dust, clay, etc. and then heating them into what becomes a brick. I'm just wondering if I do this will elements (mercury, iron, you get the idea) leach out into the water, making it poisonous for my fish? Also I am debating about not filling the tank completely up, maybe stopping somewhere between 18 and 24 inches high, leaving 6"-12" unfilled space at the top. If I do that I'm wanting to build ledges with waterfalls and things to create a really nice effect, and again bricks seem like the cheapest and easiest way to go.. If it's a matter that this will just make the water hard, not a problem. If this will poison the water and fish, then I've got a problem. What do you think?
 

Oddball

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I'd say, get a glass piece and seal it in as your top brace. Figure 6" wide and the length of your tank's width (front to back) empty.
As far as the brick work, I think you're going to have way too much weight for that tank's bottomglass to handle. I'd suggest constructing this 'barn' on a piece of plywood. Then, take the bricks and weigh them to see what you're dealing with. Are you planing to mortar the bricks together or just stack them? I'm assuming there some mortar involved since this will replicate a building with a roof. Adobe and terracotta bricks are safe to use (do not use chimney brick). The mortar is another matter. The safest approach would be to seal the entire construction with clear epoxy. Epoxy is inert and food-grade safe once fully cured.
 

Dr Joe

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I take it it's a glass tank.

Why not install a brace accross the top, from front to back about 8-10" wide?

Yes brick can have all those things and more. Even new brick. You would have to know the complete history of the brick. Any number of chemicals could have been sprayed on it. (I have some beautiful large (10-15") rock that I may never use near fish 'cause I sprayed it with a concentrated poison (by accident). I've let it weather for 4yrs and I can still smell the poison.

Maybe the faux brick would be better?

I like the idea, especially in a large tank like yours.

If you've got the patience, you could purchase the quantity of brick your going to need plus some and wash and soak it for a few months to see what leaches out.

Dr. Joe

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big train

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bricks are safe and morter leftovers o.k. to just make sure thers no paint or other stuff sprayed on them. i would defently get a center brase on that big tank and i have about 100 lbs of brick and masonary blocks in my glass bottom 125 plus 100 lbs of gravel.
 

CHOMPERS

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Demonfish;492033; said:
…The only problem that I am having is that there is no center brace across the top of the tank… … I am still bothered by no center brace.
It is quite possible that it was made to not need a brace. Also, I am not sure if you understand what center braces do. The water pressure against the glass pushes out. Thus the brace pulls in. There is no need to keep the tank from caving in on itself.

Demonfish;492033; said:
…What I am thinking about doing is setting up a center brace inside the tank using bricks (as in the stuff used to build houses).
Bricks can not do this; they have poor tensile strength. Also, silicone does not adhere well to cement products (clear latex will though).

Demonfish;492033; said:
… are bricks safe for fish? I know a little about how they are made, compacting rock, sand, dust, clay, etc.
Clay bricks (red or brown) are ok in a fish tank. Cinder blocks (what you just described) are not ok. The reason is they contain calcium chloride and many caustics in ungodly proportions. The leach out will cause fish kills every time you get relaxed on the water changes. You know you have to do water changes, right?

Demonfish;492033; said:
... If it's a matter that this will just make the water hard, not a problem. If this will poison the water and fish, then I've got a problem. What do you think?
Ummm…once again, you know you have to do water changes, right? And some fish are very sensitive to water hardness and many have strict pH requirements. In addition to hard water, the pH will skyrocket as the bricks leach out. Every time you change the water, your surviving fish will have to tolerate extreme changes in pH…which itself can be deadly. Stick to clay bricks but do not use mortar (same issues).

If you must use cement products in your fish tank, you should separate the water from the cement. You can use clear outdoor paint or epoxy paint if it comes in clear. Also I have heard that you can cure the cement in a salt bath for several days. I do not know the effectiveness of this though.
 
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