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  1. #91
    iHate Apple jcardona1's Avatar
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    Alright! I ordered one of these to test it out and see if I'll like it. And of course, they sent me warm white even though I added a specific note on their website to send me white! So I called and they're sending me the white.

    I love the look of the fixture, would look very cool hanging. But, I wasn't too impressed with the light spread. I put one over my 57g and it didn't give me good light coverage front-to-back in a 18" wide tank.

    So to evenly light a tank with a 60x30 footprint would get quite expensive. Guess I'll have to look into other options They are great though, and I definitely intend on using them on tanks that wouldn't require so many.
    Quote Originally Posted by SumoNinja
    if you are offended[...], leave this thread, use the "ignore" feature on me and go join the mickey mouse club.
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  2. #92
    Peacock Bass ArttyFish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcardona1;4837311;
    Alright! I ordered one of these to test it out and see if I'll like it. And of course, they sent me warm white even though I added a specific note on their website to send me white! So I called and they're sending me the white.

    I love the look of the fixture, would look very cool hanging. But, I wasn't too impressed with the light spread. I put one over my 57g and it didn't give me good light coverage front-to-back in a 18" wide tank.

    So to evenly light a tank with a 60x30 footprint would get quite expensive. Guess I'll have to look into other options They are great though, and I definitely intend on using them on tanks that wouldn't require so many.
    Hey Jose. I talked with the store owner of ledwholesalers and he said they are coming out with a 50 watt version of this style led module! Oy boy! I cant wait to see how bright 50 watt is because 10 is blinding bright aleady. Maybe you should check out the 50 watt ones in the near future for your set up.



  3. #93
    Arapaima Conner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcardona1;4837311;
    Alright! I ordered one of these to test it out and see if I'll like it. And of course, they sent me warm white even though I added a specific note on their website to send me white! So I called and they're sending me the white.

    I love the look of the fixture, would look very cool hanging. But, I wasn't too impressed with the light spread. I put one over my 57g and it didn't give me good light coverage front-to-back in a 18" wide tank.

    So to evenly light a tank with a 60x30 footprint would get quite expensive. Guess I'll have to look into other options They are great though, and I definitely intend on using them on tanks that wouldn't require so many.
    I would think you could get away with using 6 of them, couldn't you? 3 end to end, 2 front to back? It may not evenly light the whole tank, but I think tanks look better when there are area's of light and shadow for the fish to swim through.
    Jacund
    Quote Originally Posted by dlobom;4742014;
    As per the urban dictionary:calling one "weak sauce" compares an individual to the "mild" sauce found at Taco Bell; weak, insignificant, attempting to be like the other, lame, bad, performing poorly, opposite of money.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sylvias;4494354;
    lol ....yet another thing herp keepers have in common with drug dealers.....



  4. #94
    iHate Apple jcardona1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArttyFish;4837403 View Post
    Hey Jose. I talked with the store owner of ledwholesalers and he said they are coming out with a 50 watt version of this style led module! Oy boy! I cant wait to see how bright 50 watt is because 10 is blinding bright aleady. Maybe you should check out the 50 watt ones in the near future for your set up.
    Ooooh 50w?? Any idea on timing?
    Quote Originally Posted by SumoNinja
    if you are offended[...], leave this thread, use the "ignore" feature on me and go join the mickey mouse club.
    A gun is like a parachute. If you need one and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.



  5. #95
    Redbelly Piranha H20Boy's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear that you can you are not getting a good light spread.
    Artyfish has a tank that is 2' tall I would think that your tank is around 1' 6".
    The hight of his tank may work in his favor, That being said I would think that there is a way to spread/defuse the light. I would buy a 2'x4' sheet/light defusing material--the type you would use in the standard drop ceiling 2x4 light.

    I will also see if I can up load a drawing for another idea I have.
    I want this to work.
    Poverty stinks, But the view's great-I love my tank!



  6. #96
    iHate Apple jcardona1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conner;4837405 View Post
    I would think you could get away with using 6 of them, couldn't you? 3 end to end, 2 front to back? It may not evenly light the whole tank, but I think tanks look better when there are area's of light and shadow for the fish to swim through.
    Yeah, it may work. But that's $200 right there, and if I'm still not happy I'll have to buy more!! I doubt I could return them once I strip the wires to hook them up.
    Quote Originally Posted by SumoNinja
    if you are offended[...], leave this thread, use the "ignore" feature on me and go join the mickey mouse club.
    A gun is like a parachute. If you need one and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.



  7. #97
    Peacock Bass ArttyFish's Avatar
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    I mean i know you spend thousands of dollars on all your pro photography equipment. Whats $200 for leds. Th only other led lights that even compare are those special multi bulbed one used for growing corals and reef tanks. But i have looked into those and for one they are super duper expensive and two they always have white and blue led mixed together and not just all super bright white bulbs like how i want it to be. Its like half white led and half blue led so that sucks for my freshwater fish set up.



  8. #98
    Arapaima Conner's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about buying 3 of these to try out on my 6 foot tank with gar, cichlids, catfish, and bichir. Seeing the gar gliding through those shimmering beams of light would be awesome!
    Jacund
    Quote Originally Posted by dlobom;4742014;
    As per the urban dictionary:calling one "weak sauce" compares an individual to the "mild" sauce found at Taco Bell; weak, insignificant, attempting to be like the other, lame, bad, performing poorly, opposite of money.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sylvias;4494354;
    lol ....yet another thing herp keepers have in common with drug dealers.....



  9. #99
    Peacock Bass ArttyFish's Avatar
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    Connor. I have been advocating these great led modules since day one! You will be very happy withe the effect and with the electricity you save. You can have them on all day long without wasting energy. But a word of advice, call the company directly and talk with Wayne. He is the owner and order directly from him over the phone. A lot of people who ordered have gotten the wrong led color sent to them when ordering online. But if you call and talk with him directly, there should be no miscommunication. Ps get the 6000k bright white. NOT the warm color light!!!



  10. #100
    iHate Apple jcardona1's Avatar
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    Yeah the shimmering effect was AMAZING when I held it over my tank, even with the fugly yellow light they sent me.

    To be honest, I'm thinking of going the DIY route. It will cost me about $500 for a 48" fixture w/ 48 LEDs, but the result is stupid awesome. Still not sure though. This will be able to grow plants and corals

    Here's the details:

    Many of you have seen my preview. This is the full instruction sheet. I hope it's clear enough but feel free to ask any questions. I will try to respond as soon as possible.

    Enjoy!


    What you will need:

    24 Cree White LEDs mounted on star boards - ~$173.00 from www.LEDsupply.com
    24 Royal Blue LEDs mounted on star boards - ~$173.00 from www.LEDsupply.com
    4 700mA wired buckpucks (3023-D-N-700) ~$60.00 from www.LEDsupply.com
    4 1000mA wired buckpucks (3023-D-N-1000) ~$60.00 from www.LEDsupply.com
    Heatsinks €“ more specifics on this later ~$60.00 from www.heatsinkusa.com
    Power supplies €“ more specifics on this later ~45.00 from www.mpja.com
    Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy ~$13.00 €“ find this in a local computer parts store or eBay
    Fans for cooling ~$20.00 €“ find this in a local computer parts store or eBay
    Aluminum project box from Radio Shack ~$3.99
    Aluminum stock
    Drill and tap set
    Stainless machine screws €“ I used #6-32
    16 gauge wire
    Precision electronics soldering iron and solder

    DISCLAIMER: This project involves both low voltage DC current and high voltage AC current. Risk of electric shock should be obvious and if you are not comfortable with basic electronics wiring, leave this to someone more experienced. As with any project like this, mileage will vary.

    Feel free to make any changes or improvements to this design. My main focus is to provide you with instructions on wiring and all the parts needed for a lighting fixture that can save you tons of money and provide just as much light as halides.

    I claim that this saves money. Why is that? To begin with, LEDs last for 50,000 hours. After that, they drop about 30% in brightness. How many times would you need to replace halide or PC bulbs in 50,000 hours of burn time? Also, power consumption is far less than even PC lighting for the output.

    Getting Started

    I have a 75 gallon tank, therefore, I needed a light fixture of 48€ in length. I found some 1€ angle aluminum in 4€™ sections at my local hardware store. I picked up two of them along with 3€™ of 1€ square aluminum tube. The heatsinks that I used were 12€x8.5€. I cut the square tubing to 8.5€ lengths and screwed them to each end of the aluminum angle and to the middle for further support.

    NOTE* - The heatsinks can be purchased in varying lengths. Check out www.heatsinkusa.com for sizing.

    The heatsinks were easily attached by drilling through and tapping them to allow for the stainless machine screws to securely attach the heatsink to the aluminum frame.



    Mounting the LEDs

    I studied the array of the Solaris fixtures and saw that the LEDs were in an alternating blue/white pattern. This seemed like a winning combination so I did just that. Each buckpuck can safely handle 6 LEDs. This is where I got my array of 24 LEDs in each array VS the 25 in each Solaris array. (6x4=24) I arranged the LEDs in a crisscross pattern as shown.

    To attach the LEDs to the heatsink, use the Arctic Alumina heatsink epoxy. As the packaging states, the bond is PERMANENT so make sure you have the LEDs aligned before attaching them. It€™s best to save the wiring job until the LEDs are mounted and the epoxy has cured.



    The LEDs need to be arranged so that they can be wired in series. For example, the first LED, closest to the buckpuck driver, needs to have the negative lead facing the buckpuck direction. The positive of that LED needs to be connected to the negative of the next LED and so on until the string of 6 is complete. The positive of the last LED in the string runs back to the buckpuck.



    Drivers

    As I said, I used 8 buckpuck drivers that can be had at www.ledsupply.com. I used the non-dimmable versions because I didn€™t care about that feature. The dimmable versions are slightly more expensive but can open up a few features. For example, you can dim each string to fit your needs. This could be helpful in the acclimation process.



    This is a fairly simple setup. All of the negative leads from the buckpucks driving the BLUES will be connected and all of the positive leads will be connected. The same goes for the WHITE drivers. Each LED output from the individual buckpucks goes to an individual string of LEDs.

    NOTE* - I used 700mA drivers on the BLUE and 1000mA drivers on the WHITE.

    You will need a place to hide the buckpucks. An aluminum project box from Radio Shack worked perfectly for this, keeping with the all aluminum theme. The buckpucks produce no heat and can be thrown in the box indiscriminately if you wish. However, to keep the wiring (which there is a lot of) in order, the buckpucks can be epoxied to the inner walls of the project box. It would be smart to keep the 700mA on one side and the 1000mA on the other.



    Drill some access holes in the box as you will need to route wiring through them. I made 4 holes in the front, all 3/8€ to both run wires through and allow for the wire loom to fit securely inside the hole. On the back, drill whatever size hole you need to run the power and fans. This is where you get to be as creative as you want. I drilled holes, inserted rubber grommets and ran the wires. You can use whatever you want as the control center and make it look like whatever you wish.





    Power

    For power, you will need to acquire a 24V power source that can handle the load of the LEDs. I found the perfect power supply at www.mpja.com. It is a 24V 6.5A CNC power supply. You will need one for each type of LED. The BLUES get one and the WHITES get one.



    NOTE* - You can use any type of 24V DV power supply you want. Just make sure that the amperage draw from the LEDs does not exceed the amperage available from the power supply. For example, running 4 strings of 6 LEDs being driven at 1000mA is a total draw of 4 amps. Using a 24V 3A power supply, will, in my experience, kill the power supply. The buckpucks can handle up to 32V but only 24 is needed for a string of 6, which is the recommended maximum number of LEDs per string.

    The wiring of the power supply is rather simple as well. You will need an AC cord with a ground. If you can find a few old computer power cords, just cut the end off and wire that to the power supply.

    NOTE* - ALWAYS TEST your connections before just plugging the cord into the wall!

    The output of the power supply is in a simple positive/negative DC fashion. These will run to the respective positive and negative leads on the buckpucks.

    Cooling

    High power LEDs generate heat. It€™s not a ton of heat, but the cooler they run, the longer they last. I found some 120mm fans on ebay and purchased 4 of them. Check the fan noise rating which is listed as DB. The ones I purchased were listed at 20DB. This is barely audible in a silent room. I found that when they arrived, they were larger than I thought. I only used one on each heatsink and the cooling effect is substantial. Without the fans, the heatsinks would reach a feverish forehead feeling. With them, they are cool to the touch after hours of run time.



    To mount the fans, I used some flat 1/2€ wide lengths of aluminum. They were bent to the shape of the heatsink and mounted with the same drilling and tapping method.

    NOTE* - Be sure to raise the fan off the heatsink by at least 1/4€ to allow for air flow.



    So, now you€™re looking at this and thinking that the fans are 12V and the power supplies are 24V. How does this work? I had the same problem and the fix is simple. Wire them in series. The positive from one fan goes to the positive of the 24V power to the buckpucks. The negative of that fan goes to the positive of the other. That last negative goes back to the negative of the same buckpuck circuit.

    The power supplies get warm, as well. I don€™t know if they absolutely need cooling, but I happened to have two extra fans. I added them to the box that I mounted the power supplies in.

    Optics

    I am fully aware that optics will increase the output of LEDs. However, I decided not to use them because they cut down on the spread of the light. In order to use the optics, successfully, you will need to keep the LED arrays closer together and , most likely, need more LEDs to get the desired spread.

    Closing

    That€™s really about it. You can build this exact fixture for about $600 and never have to replace any bulbs. After 11 years or so, the LEDs will lose some of their intensity. But, that€™s 11 years down the road. Consider the cost of replacing bulbs in standard MH or PC fixtures over the span of 11 years. This type of lighting pays for itself over time. Your electric bill will thank you, as well.

    As always, your mileage will vary. You can make whatever you want and have it look like whatever you want. The important things here are the wiring and cooling. Other than that, the canvas is yours to paint.

    I hope this will help those of you interested in LED lighting but don€™t want to spend the incredible prices out there for pre-manufactured LED fixtures.

    Thank you for reading this and enjoy!


    More pictures and PAR readings!







    Quote Originally Posted by SumoNinja
    if you are offended[...], leave this thread, use the "ignore" feature on me and go join the mickey mouse club.
    A gun is like a parachute. If you need one and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.



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