Dwarf caiman care sheet

Lepisosteus platyrhincus

Polypterus
MFK Member
Nov 9, 2008
6,765
17
92
In the caiman den
This will cover both species of caiman that are best suited for captive care. This means Cuvier's dwarf caiman( Paleosuchus palpebrosus) and Schneider's dwarf caiman (Paleosuchus trigonatus) with the later being covered first. Let it be known that I am far from an expert, simply a hobbyist that enjoys caiman and all kinds of crocs.




First up is Scheider's dwarf. They are a simple caiman to keep with a manageable size. Males can achieve sizes of 2.3 m(7.5 ft) with an average of 1.7m(5.5ft) or slightly larger. Females are a good bit smaller with an average size of 1.2 m to 1.4m (approx 4ft to 4.5ft). Both sexes have a notorius temper and constant handling is NOT gonna solve that problem. Please do not get into these thinking you can cuddle up with them. With enough work an american alligator may become super tame but these are not gators. These have a legendary temper. Keep this in mind when choosing your species. Cuviers is supposed to be a bit more calm. I have zero first hand experience with Cuviers so I am not sure on this.

Adults of both sexes prefer to spend copious amounts of time in burrows. They will spend most of the day in these burrows only coming out at night. Night is when they tend to venture into the water as well as explore the rest of their surroundings. This is not always the case. Some keepers have experienced caiman preferring to spend their time in water. This may be an issue linked to other problems such as temp, etc. Maybe not but maybe so. They can cover large amounts of land in the night, so be sure to provide enough land. A hide is a must. More land than water is actually preferred with this species. A temp of mid to high 70s for the entire enclosure is acceptable. Water should be low 70's. Some keepers(such as my self) use multiple ponds to provide two different water temps. This allows the caiman to choose what temp they want and simply allows for better thermo-regulation.

In the wild juveniles tend to eat a large amount of insects and fish. Adults tend to eat more large rodents, snakes etc. In captivity diet should be varied. Rodents, fish, organ meat, commercial food, etc. Do not, and i mean do not, feed just steaks, ground beef, chicken breasts etc. This does not have the best nutrients available. A diet consisting of just that will result in serious consequences for the animal. Improper bone growth etc. Be aware when purchasing your caiman and bringing it home with you, that it may not eat for awhile. This is not a cause for concern as caiman can stress quite easily. Give it time. During this time leave it alone as much as possible. Be advised that some caimans are also finicky on home they except food. Some want basking lights, some want it in the burrow, some even in their water. Every caiman is different so try different places until it eats.

While captive breeding is possible it is not common. These tend to be solitary in the wild, but can stand enclosure mates in captivity. Not always but sometimes. Another reason is the age. Males tend to be 10 to 20 years old before they are ready for breeding, with females being similar. They do not breed often, with an average of a single clutch 3 to 4 years. 10 to 20 eggs per clutch is average. Incubation is quite long with an average exceeding 110 days. Hatchings are much more sensitive than adults. Adults are quite tough. Something that also should be considered when purchasing.

Now that we covered all that lets cover the big things. Yes these are very aggressive. As hatchlings and sub adults they are a bit more skittish. As they grow they will come after you!! Do not get complacent with them. Even at a small size these have a very powerful bite and can do significant damage. If bitten do not pull back. Hold in place and carefully pry open the mouth. This will limit the damage done to you, but if done incorrectly can harm the caiman. Of course at the time its what is more important, you or the caiman. Housing can be quite complicated. The proper size can be difficult to figure out. For this species more land than water is preferred so 3 to 4 times the size of the animal should be sufficient for land with 2 to 3 times for water.

Enclosure mates can include but not limited to other caimans of similar size(if there is sufficient space) turtles(painted, sliders etc but no aggressive turtles such as snappers) and sometimes fish. These are likely to be eaten so don't put your favorite fish in with them. Smaller fish have a good chance at being left alone when the caiman is larger.

I'm sure i missed stuff as this was typed quickly. I will cover cuviers at a later date unless someone wants to beat me to it. Any questions, comments concerns feel free to state. Be advised that caiman are not a pet for everyone. They take perseverance and patience. Nothing I said here should be taken word for word. There always is leeway this is just suggestions. I may have missed some stuff if so I will add it when I get the chance.

If I missed anything, please tell me what. Thanks!!
 

Lepisosteus platyrhincus

Polypterus
MFK Member
Nov 9, 2008
6,765
17
92
In the caiman den
I did forget to mention UV. As these spend a majority of the time in burrows UV is not necessary. In fact it does zero extra benefit.
 

A. gigas

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Apr 19, 2010
2,886
2
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i think someone's hoping to get his thread stickied.. ;)

good job, looks like a good care sheet
 

snakeguy101

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jun 29, 2009
5,431
7
62
posting bail
We should make a series of care sheets to sticky. Common things like ball pythons, corn snakes, beardies, some monitors, common turtles, iggy's, and then some odd balls for the advanced keepers like this. I think combining those into a sticky would be a great resource for people.

Any volunteers? I will get started on an iggy care sheet and a frilled dragon sheet. I know Varanio or Vicious Fish could make a killer monitor care sheet, Chloe could do burms, and I know there are some ball python people out there. This could be an awesome resource.

LP, great write up btw.
 

brooklynboy521

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Nov 4, 2010
374
1
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United States
I made this ball python care sheet a while back if you want to use it snakeguy :)

Name of Animal: Ball Python, Royal Python (UK)

Scientific Name: Python Regius

Similer Species This Care Sheet May Cover: Woma Python

Range/ Status In Wild: Ball pythons range from Senegal to Togo in West Africa and eastward to the Nile River in southern Sudan. They are found in dry grassland, savanna, and forest edges. They are not endangered but are at risk due to exporting from their native land. They are also killed for food and leather in Africa.

Diet: Ball Pythons are notorious for being picky eaters. This is not always true however. If you buy a captive bred ball python they are usually good eaters. In the wild they eat a variety of rodents including African Soft-Furred Rats and Gerbils. In captivity they will thrive on feeder rats. It is best to feed frozen/ thawed rats found at your local pet store. Some balls may not eat frozen and your only option would be to feed live. Ball pythons have been recorded going for up to a year without eating. They also go on feeding strikes for weeks at a time. This is not a problem unless they start loosing weight, than consult your local reptile vet. Feed ball pythons once a week as juveniles and once every two weeks as adults.

Care Level: Great beginner snake if you buy a captive bred specimen.

Temperature: The temps are vital for a healthy, happy, and eating ball python. The temperature should be around 90-92 on the hot end and 80-82 on the cool end. This is best achieved by under the tank heat pads because they will aid in digestion.
ALWAYS USE A THERMOMETER WITH A PROBE. IT IS MOST ACCURATE.

Handeling: Yes. Ball pythons in general are pretty calm. Hatchlings may be a bit nippy. Regular handling would make them super tame. Don't handle your snake for 48 hours after eating. They may regurgitate their food.

Enclosure Requirements: A baby ball python can live about a year in a 10 gallon tank. After that move them up to their adult size enclosure, either a 20 Long, 30 gallon, or a 40 breeder would be more than enough for one adult. For substrate you can use aspen, coco fiber, reptile bark, or newspaper. Aspen works best because they like to burrow. NEVER USE CEDER OR PINE. Always use a hide box for your ball python. If a ball python doesn't have a hide box it would feel insecure and most likely would not eat. Your snake should fit snugly in his/ her hide box. Provide a hide on each side of the cage so they do not have to choose between security and warmth. A water bowl should be provided on the cool end on the enclosure. Change water daily. Your snake should be able to soak in the water dish. Also they would appreciate a stick for climbing, I know mine does. Fake plants are also a good idea as they not only look nice but provide security for your snake.

Other Notes: Ball Pythons are a great beginner snake! They are very interesting and come in a variety of color morphs. Always buy a CB snake to be sure they do not have parasites or mites. If you notice anything wrong with your reptile bring it to a vet as soon as possible.

Written By: Peter DiSalvo aka brooklynboy521
 

Lepisosteus platyrhincus

Polypterus
MFK Member
Nov 9, 2008
6,765
17
92
In the caiman den
A. gigas;4882967; said:
i think someone's hoping to get his thread stickied.. ;)

good job, looks like a good care sheet
Yep. How did ya know? Lol.

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