PH shock vs Tds Shock

I can add Baking Soda to my tanks, raise the pH from 6 or less to 7 or more, and none of my fish appear to even notice. In the past I accidentally dropped the pH in a discus breeding tank by over 2 points, then raised it back up (I was running a continuous pH monitor so I knew exactly what happened). The discus spawned a couple days later. This isn't "proof" by the scientific definition of the word but it's good enough for me.

The only inhabitants of my tanks that appear to care about the pH are the filter bacteria who slow down when the pH drops below 6.

IMO, people call it pH shock because they don't measure GH when fish are killed by a change in water params.

Scott - it would be much easier for me to explain this over the phone.

Osmoregulation has nothing to do with pH, and everything to do with controlling the balance of water/salt concentrations. pH has nothing to do with regards to if ones water is a hypertonic solution, hypotonic solution, or if it's isotonic. The shock part of the equation comes in when a fish has difficulty reaching equilibrium.

This might help...........

http://www.angelsplus.com/ArticleOsmosis.htm

http://www.shrimpnow.com/content.ph...ce-on-Acclimating-and-Quarantining-New-Shrimp

http://www.mtfb.com/MTFBJUNE/MTFB2 pages/jacobsarticle2.htm


In your/our area the biggest issue with pH is ammonia toxicity, as at higher pH values as found here ammonia can be much more lethal, especially when higher temps are involved.

Maybe a bit off topic but when ever i have imported rays it always seems a week or a few days after is when i notice and encounter difficulties .do you guys think it's a combo of both or maybe tds shock takes a few days to really mess with them.i still after 8 weeks have a ray suffering from something.from what i would love tobe able to correct it but something is slowing this one down from coming around

I might be the wrong guy to chime in on this, but I'm a true believer in stable water vs jacking around to try and make the water parameters settle into a preset range.

I'll manage temp and that's about it. I've had FW rays breeding and thriving in what some would consider 'pure crap' for water. Remember what they are living in out in the wild. Systems tend to establish themselves and maintain themselves based on the build and bio load. Once it's stable, leave it alone.

PeteLockwood;5124934; said:

I can add Baking Soda to my tanks, raise the pH from 6 or less to 7 or more, and none of my fish appear to even notice. In the past I accidentally dropped the pH in a discus breeding tank by over 2 points, then raised it back up (I was running a continuous pH monitor so I knew exactly what happened). The discus spawned a couple days later. This isn't "proof" by the scientific definition of the word but it's good enough for me.

The only inhabitants of my tanks that appear to care about the pH are the filter bacteria who slow down when the pH drops below 6.

IMO, people call it pH shock because they don't measure GH when fish are killed by a change in water params.

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One time I make a mistake measuring quantity of baking soda to my tank, a put couple more than I should. PH was 6, after more than 8...

My Rays and my Black Arowana where fine.

Zoodiver;5128739; said:

I might be the wrong guy to chime in on this, but I'm a true believer in stable water vs jacking around to try and make the water parameters settle into a preset range.

I'll manage temp and that's about it. I've had FW rays breeding and thriving in what some would consider 'pure crap' for water. Remember what they are living in out in the wild. Systems tend to establish themselves and maintain themselves based on the build and bio load. Once it's stable, leave it alone.

Click to expand...

More and more experienced aquarists tell me exactly the same

That why I remove my RO/DI Unit couple days ago and so far so good !

Zoodiver;5128739; said:

I might be the wrong guy to chime in on this, but I'm a true believer in stable water vs jacking around to try and make the water parameters settle into a preset range.

I'll manage temp and that's about it. I've had FW rays breeding and thriving in what some would consider 'pure crap' for water. Remember what they are living in out in the wild. Systems tend to establish themselves and maintain themselves based on the build and bio load. Once it's stable, leave it alone.

Click to expand...

I have to agree with Zoodiver,because the best long term luck I've had with rays staying happy & healthy has been by finding a drip rate that fits my bio-load and tank size...AND LEAVING IT!

On my 600gal. I have been dripping between 4-5gph for about the last six months,this keeps my Nitrates between 20-30,and TDS at about 150 (TDS out of tap/112-120). I could probably even turn it down a bit and still have very healthy rays,but these levels have served me well,so that's where they stay.

I would constantly adjust the drip,always trying to attain a lower Nitrate,TDS,etc.... when it was'nt really that critical in the well-being of the fish...point being,just find a healthy level and maintain:}

(600 gal. stock:5 rays-12"to16" & 27" Black Aro)