Is this possible? How hard is this to accomplish?
The owner of the vase started an article here. See link.
http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/18426-updates-on-the-reef-vase-started-2006/
A YouTube video of his reef vase
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIwyXymjyrk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
"Hello I have been looking around your site and it is filled with really well engineered reef tanks and pics. My work involves long term pico reefs that are designed to test allelopathy models among stony corals and are also aimed at uncovering the physicalities that limit the lifespan of small nano and pico tanks.I travel the boards sharing and collecting information to apply in my tanks and test the outcomes, probably the most helpful techniques Ive used from nr.com is the hamster bottle topoff system and peroxide dosing to control all algae unwanted in the tank.The vase has coralline and sps corals removed from it regularly for trade, and its been able to model several important techniques for increasing the lifespan in pico reefs ranging .5 to 3 gallons. if you look around on the internet, its hard or impossible to find pictures of a 3 gallon or less tank even just two years old but this can start to change with a change in method.its fun to come together to see what we've been doing wrong this last decade with our pico reefs, why were they so short lived?The cause of short lifespan (barring hardware failure) is using methods designed for large tanks on pico reef setups and nothing else. avoiding water changes based on fear of upsetting the ecosystem was the worst carry over.the combining factors to make a pico reef tank live indefinately:-dosing of two part solutions relative to the age and water change regimen for a given pico reef (a certain method of dosing C balance which factors diurnal carbon dioxide cycles in the reef aquarium)-a feeding system that overdrives the tank but does not cause nutrient problems for the tank (coupled feeding/water changes and stocking reef animals that adapt to weekly or bi weekly feeding)-stopping or reducing evaporation to levels so that salinity control is the easiest function of the pico reef-using non natural algae control methods so tedious water testing is not required-methods to deal with sandbed incursion and nutrient sinking in the pico reef deeps sand bed-occasional power flushing of the complete system without takedown, where 20x tank volume is poured through the reef to export accumulations (an opposite system to the 20 year old hands off approach where nutrient sinking is linear accumulative)pico reef science is its own beast, not much transfers into this realm from the work of large tank care so its fun to ride a new wave of coral husbandry. If anyone is having problems with their pico reefs, or with pico reef pests like red brush algae, cyano or bryopsis, or slow coral growth, there are easy corrections to make and its based on a decade of observations from just this one system~ lets talk nano science if anyone is interestedBhere's a quick vid I made to match the pics"
The owner of the vase started an article here. See link.
http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/18426-updates-on-the-reef-vase-started-2006/
A YouTube video of his reef vase
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIwyXymjyrk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
"Hello I have been looking around your site and it is filled with really well engineered reef tanks and pics. My work involves long term pico reefs that are designed to test allelopathy models among stony corals and are also aimed at uncovering the physicalities that limit the lifespan of small nano and pico tanks.I travel the boards sharing and collecting information to apply in my tanks and test the outcomes, probably the most helpful techniques Ive used from nr.com is the hamster bottle topoff system and peroxide dosing to control all algae unwanted in the tank.The vase has coralline and sps corals removed from it regularly for trade, and its been able to model several important techniques for increasing the lifespan in pico reefs ranging .5 to 3 gallons. if you look around on the internet, its hard or impossible to find pictures of a 3 gallon or less tank even just two years old but this can start to change with a change in method.its fun to come together to see what we've been doing wrong this last decade with our pico reefs, why were they so short lived?The cause of short lifespan (barring hardware failure) is using methods designed for large tanks on pico reef setups and nothing else. avoiding water changes based on fear of upsetting the ecosystem was the worst carry over.the combining factors to make a pico reef tank live indefinately:-dosing of two part solutions relative to the age and water change regimen for a given pico reef (a certain method of dosing C balance which factors diurnal carbon dioxide cycles in the reef aquarium)-a feeding system that overdrives the tank but does not cause nutrient problems for the tank (coupled feeding/water changes and stocking reef animals that adapt to weekly or bi weekly feeding)-stopping or reducing evaporation to levels so that salinity control is the easiest function of the pico reef-using non natural algae control methods so tedious water testing is not required-methods to deal with sandbed incursion and nutrient sinking in the pico reef deeps sand bed-occasional power flushing of the complete system without takedown, where 20x tank volume is poured through the reef to export accumulations (an opposite system to the 20 year old hands off approach where nutrient sinking is linear accumulative)pico reef science is its own beast, not much transfers into this realm from the work of large tank care so its fun to ride a new wave of coral husbandry. If anyone is having problems with their pico reefs, or with pico reef pests like red brush algae, cyano or bryopsis, or slow coral growth, there are easy corrections to make and its based on a decade of observations from just this one system~ lets talk nano science if anyone is interestedBhere's a quick vid I made to match the pics"
