Sani-Tred coatings for DIY tanks...

zennzzo

Feeder Fish
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Oct 18, 2005
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Mile High in Northern AZ, baby!~
wizzin has a great thread on a 1000g. concrete tank he's building.
Sani-Tred was mentioned so I e-mailed the company to get some
ideas for my own 480g (96x48x24) project...
Excellent advice, in only about 3 hours...
this is what they sent bacck

Sani-Tred said:
Plywood - Acrylic Aquarium:

1) The first thing you would do is prepare the substrate.
Make sure the substrate is clean, dry,
free of any previous applied product, and foreign matter.

2) Prime the Plywood with 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal).
Prime the acrylic with 1 coat of 2-part epoxy primer.
The prime coat of PermaFlex will penetrate into the
plywood then cure tough as a truck tire inside
the plywood to achieve permanent adhesion.
The 2-part epoxy primer is used to better adhere to the acrylic.

3) Patch and profile any plywood joints, seams,
cracks, holes, etc... using LRB/TAV mixture at a ¾” bead.
This mixture is 2 parts LRB to 1 part TAV.
LRB/TAV mixture will molecularly weld to the
prime coat of PermaFlex and permanently adhere to the epoxy primer.



4) Apply a coat of LRB (Liquid Rubber Base)
to the interior of the tank to create a thick
impervious membrane (80 sq ft per gal) 20 mils thickness.
LRB will cure at any thickness.
The LRB membrane will overwhelm any imperfections
within the plywood, guarantee an absolute seal,
allow ultimate flexibility, and durability.
This membrane will molecularly weld to the previous applications.
LRB can also be thickened to any viscosity by mixing it with TAV.
This will give you thicker vertical cling if the tank can not be
flipped onto its side.

5) Topcoat using 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal)
which will molecularly weld to the LRB membrane.

If VHO lighting or any other intense UV lighting
will be used or would like a special color,
apply 1 coat of a good 2 part epoxy paint.
This paint will give you the color desired and extreme UV resistance.
This coat will not aid or inhibit the
waterproofing/sealing of the aquarium.
Wash the Sani-Tred surfaces before filling the tank with water.


01) 02)




03)



04) 05)





LRB/TAV “Round Bead Consumption Chart”
http://www.sanitred.com/roundchart.htm

Product Price List:
http://www.sanitred.com/pricelist.htm

Online Order Here:
http://www.sanitred.com/productprice$.htm

Our website www.sanitred.com is the location of
all product literature, life time warranty, product prices, tech data, references, rate of use charts, etc... All products come with complete application instructions.

PermaFlex:





LRB:




LRB/TAV Mixture:


Our website www.sanitred.com is the
location of all product literature, life time warranty, product prices, tech data, references, rate of use charts,
etc...


Looks great to me...
 

eh1421

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Dec 14, 2005
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*indiana*
good info what i could read
any way to make it bigger

mike
 

IITUFFTOBEATII

Gambusia
MFK Member
Nov 6, 2006
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At my desk
:thumbsup:
 

Phixer

Gambusia
MFK Member
Jan 14, 2007
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Thanks for posting this. Are you lining the plywood tank with acrylic then applying the Sanitred over the acrylic?

I wonder how well it would work over fiberglass. Might use fiberglass as a redundancy in case I get a tear in the Sanitred. I really need to see how tough this stuff is when dry. If its like a polyurethane bushing then I see nothing to worry about. But if its a soft like an inner tube the potential for a small puncture could turn catastrophic. The only thing I can see about painting a flexible coating like this with epoxy is that the epoxy paint dries hard and would crack on top of a flexible surface. Kind of like painting over a tire.
So far this stuff looks like a better method of sealing then plain fiberglass/epoxy paint.
 

zennzzo

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Oct 18, 2005
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Jovial;658354; said:
Thanks for posting this. Are you lining the plywood tank with acrylic then applying the Sanitred over the acrylic?

I wonder how well it would work over fiberglass. Might use fiberglass as a redundancy in case I get a tear in the Sanitred. I really need to see how tough this stuff is when dry. If its like a polyurethane bushing then I see nothing to worry about. But if its a soft like an inner tube the potential for a small puncture could turn catastrophic. The only thing I can see about painting a flexible coating like this with epoxy is that the epoxy paint dries hard and would crack on top of a flexible surface. Kind of like painting over a tire.
So far this stuff looks like a better method of sealing then plain fiberglass/epoxy paint.
Their suggestion, to use perma-flex as the primer coat (1 coat)
If you need the fiberglass as a structural component then I'd say use it...
I gave then my dementions and they suggested 3/4" plywood...
I'll be using a 2"x 2" angle iron frame to hold my plywood like a regular glass configuration, as well as the verts on the corners.
Then I'll cut-out and replace the front viewing pannel with 1/2"thick Acrylite GP, priming it with 2-part epoxy primer...
Check out the cured product on the concrete blocks...it's flexability and sealing properties
are robust I think
The wicker basket tells all about sealabilty too...

wicker.JPG
 

Phixer

Gambusia
MFK Member
Jan 14, 2007
254
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CO & CA
This looks like good stuff, I think I'll give it a try. How thick are you putting it on?
 

zennzzo

Feeder Fish
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Oct 18, 2005
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Mile High in Northern AZ, baby!~
Like this...


I'll have a single coat of "Perma-flex" fpr a primer coat,
the the corners done with "LBR-thickened with TAV"
20/1000" thick or 20 mil of the "LBR"
then a black "Permaflex" topcoat...

front panel.JPG
 
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