Reducing phosphates without chemicals possible RO in fresh tank

Undertheradar

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 22, 2011
154
0
0
oxford england
Hi there I'm asking for opinions for a solution for reducing algae growth from keepers experience.

I have algae growth for a few reasons most of which I can't change.
1) I perform two 300 ltr water changes a week on a 1000 ltr tank which is needed for the stock to keep the nitrates down and replenish minerals etc. The water here has elevated phosphates because I live in a river valley and last year we have had so much much rain the fertilisers have run off into the water system . So effectively I'm charging my tank with a algae food.

2) the position of the tank is next to large 9 FT x 6 ft glass door so sun light is increased. I'm unable to move the tank as it ways 1.3 tonnes and its the only position to fit in room and my fish demand a 7ft long tank.

3) in the sump I have tried to establish a Refuge which has been a 50% success the underwater plants don't last no matter which type I put in because the flow is high and placing in tank would be destroyed by the ray and aro. The Malaysian vine was doing really well although a few of the plant spectrum bulbs were out due to ballasts blew, no replaced so full capacity nitrate and phosphate removing should be back ina couple of weeks.

4) algae scrubbers seem a good idea but the tank is in the living room and underneath is full with sump fadditional canister filters etc ( there is space for additional kit but the size of scrubber require particularly head room is out as will be to small to be effective)

Sooooo finally I was looking at removing the phosphates at source ie RO. From reading previous threads as I understand it 100% RO causes ph to crash and fish to die though lack of essential minerals. So the main idea I wanted some feed back was by designing a sys where in a 24 hr period say 70% was RO and 30 mains. Using timers solenoid to bypass RO unit etc. This would also give me near on perfect nitrate levels no.

What's people thoughts experiences on RO on a 1000 ltr sump setup?

Long one but everyone likes the info before helping thanks ina advanc
 

Undertheradar

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 22, 2011
154
0
0
oxford england
It's not the most interesting post but I have seen references to the above idea but finding it hard to find start to Finnish on a scale of 200 gallon + 40 gall sump. Having a drip feed of RO in seems easy enough once plumbed but is a gravity drain used all ways to keep the levels correct and safety? Are people wiring in some thermostats and ph monitor as safety devices? Is a 70 RO/ 30 mains ok? After direction of the fool proof / non loan requiring method.
 

Aquaticfan

Gambusia
MFK Member
Feb 27, 2013
871
3
16
Colorado
Using more then a 50/50 mix I think would be to much. Think about it.. If someone took away 70% of your quality environment you need to survive how well would it work out for you?

Also... The Phosphates arent the issue with your algae. I always hear this over and over. I do planted tanks and i actually dose large heavy amounts of phosphates and get no algae. BUT what makes the difference is controlling the light. If you have higher amounts of light and its on the tank for several hours. PLUS are you lighting the tank with any kinds of light on top? Add that to it and there is your algae issue.
 

burbon44s

Candiru
MFK Member
May 13, 2012
919
1
48
milwaukee
Using more then a 50/50 mix I think would be to much. Think about it.. If someone took away 70% of your quality environment you need to survive how well would it work out for you?

Also... The Phosphates arent the issue with your algae. I always hear this over and over. I do planted tanks and i actually dose large heavy amounts of phosphates and get no algae. BUT what makes the difference is controlling the light. If you have higher amounts of light and its on the tank for several hours. PLUS are you lighting the tank with any kinds of light on top? Add that to it and there is your algae issue.
U said the same thing when I replied to a different thread. But u have to remember , tap water is going to be different from city to city.
Plants don't do well in hard water. So if the water is too hard and there's a lot of phosphate, your going to get algae.
O.P. check your kH. If it's high. Start using R.O to reduce. Maybe 30% R.O with every W.C. for a couple weeks. Reduce light and make sure the frequency of light is for plants
U need to watch for pH swings.
If u use co2 with a programmer, pH should stay pretty steady.
Keep using plant foods. Nutrients are needed the most.
I'm not a science kind of guy. I just know what worked for me.
Good luck. Some plants are harder to keep than fish
Imo
Sent from my DROID4 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 

Aquaticfan

Gambusia
MFK Member
Feb 27, 2013
871
3
16
Colorado
U said the same thing when I replied to a different thread. But u have to remember , tap water is going to be different from city to city.
Plants don't do well in hard water. So if the water is too hard and there's a lot of phosphate, your going to get algae.
O.P. check your kH. If it's high. Start using R.O to reduce. Maybe 30% R.O with every W.C. for a couple weeks. Reduce light and make sure the frequency of light is for plants
U need to watch for pH swings.
If u use co2 with a programmer, pH should stay pretty steady.
Keep using plant foods. Nutrients are needed the most.
I'm not a science kind of guy. I just know what worked for me.
Good luck. Some plants are harder to keep than fish
Imo
Sent from my DROID4 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
Actually in this case hardness doesnt matter. Thus why i wasnt worried about it for plants. From reading the OP's original post he isnt doing live plants in the tank due to the inhabitants living in the tank and he has tried them in the sump but the issue there is the flow so it makes it hard for them to work in there. Just an algae issue. He also mentions lots of issues with light. Thus why im curious about if he runs lights on the tank. If the light coming in the windows are there for enough hours and intense enough and then the OP runs lights on top of that during that time or when it gets dark he turns on the lights for a few more hours, your going to end up having a algae issue no matter what your Phosphates are at.

As far as hardness and plants, it can be done. Ive got several tanks I had that were on well water. GH around 18 and KH around 15 and I grew plants in it just fine. Of course there are some plants that did better and some that didnt. BUT still I had thriving tanks low light and high light with Co2 and doing dry ferts EI dosing method.
 

burbon44s

Candiru
MFK Member
May 13, 2012
919
1
48
milwaukee
Aquaticfan: your right, sorry. I thought op was still trying plants.
Light is main factor then
Maybe try a polarized shade for window or door. Try keeping some of the light off your tank

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backpack

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 14, 2012
116
0
0
Fl, USA
Why not just go to a uv setup? Usualy this knocks out algea issues. If your phosphates are that far out why not use a reactor as well?
 

Aquaticfan

Gambusia
MFK Member
Feb 27, 2013
871
3
16
Colorado
Aquaticfan: your right, sorry. I thought op was still trying plants.
Light is main factor then
Maybe try a polarized shade for window or door. Try keeping some of the light off your tank

Sent from my DROID4 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
No worries All Good!!
 

Aquaticfan

Gambusia
MFK Member
Feb 27, 2013
871
3
16
Colorado
Why not just go to a uv setup? Usualy this knocks out algea issues. If your phosphates are that far out why not use a reactor as well?
UV will work on some but not all algae. Most the Algae that it helps with is green water issues. But if the OP is getting BBA, GSA, Hair, Staghorn or other it may not do anything. Even eliminating Phosphates very well may not do anything if your light exposure is high and a long photo period. There is always some form of food for algae. They key thing that always can be said about algae is its light triggered.
 
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