Want to setup a large saltwater tank and I'm new to it

Mythic Figment

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 27, 2012
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So I have been doing months of research on discus care. Partial because of a bad experience getting information in another forum and partially because I read its easier (from a maintenance perspective), I have been toying with the idea of doing a saltwater tank instead. I am a marine biologist, so I have a decent amount of understanding of the ocean (even though I have never owned a saltwater tank), but my job centers around marine mammals. Now I understand the ocean is not an aquarium (well....it kind of is a REALLY big and complex one LOL) and there will be several things I haven't got a clue about, so teach me just like any other newbie. :)

So I will be looking to acquire a large gallon tank around 125 gallons soon since I understand larger water volumes are more forgiving with rookies. I would slowly building up the equipment I need to successfully run the tank. I have thought about just buying an entire used setup, but I would rather have a clean slate without having to worry about if someone else's equipment works properly or if it might hold disease. I want to start off relatively easy with a fish only tank and work my way into corals and such down the road once I have enough experience to confidently run a fish only tank.

I know I will need 1 pound per gallon of live rock, 1 pound per gallon of live sand, a protein skimmer, filter(s) (can anyone recommend a good one for salt because I haven't the slightest what works best for saltwater?), heaters, a refractometer, powerhead(s)(?), and salt mix. So beyond what I already have listed, what else will I need to setup a fully functional saltwater tank? Also, please give any pointers you have on the type of equipment I should buy (either a best brand/model or a better design aspect).

Now how is the salt mix used? Clearly you add it to water before you add it to a tank, but do I need another tank to age/mix the water in or do I just mix it in a bucket until I get the right refractometer reading?

I also would love any pointers on stocking. So far I have picked some of my favorites and done a lot of research into compatibility. I have studied for 3-4 hours just to see if the three types I picked out are compatible. LOL The only things I have planned for stock are a flame angelfish and a school of Bangaii cardinals. I know the cardinals do best in numbers, but how many is enough to make them happy without picking on the weakest one all the time? I love tangs and definitely want one in my tank. My favorites are the blue hippo, the powder blue, the lieutenant, and the sailfin. However I know some of these get too big for a 125 gallon tank. Would any of the four I mentioned work and if not, can you make some recommendations for small tangs? I know yellow tangs are a common small tang, but I don't really want one. Yellow isn't my favorite color. LOL I also know the tang can't be too big or it may try to go after the cardinals. Beyond these three species, I don't have anything planned out. Is there a best cleanup crew? Any other recommendation on stock that will work with the three I have in mind is greatly appreciated.


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Zoodiver

As seen on TV
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Aug 22, 2005
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Sounds like you have a good start. The pound per gallon on rock and sand is only a guideline - not something that is a 'need to have'. The reality of it is you need enough surface area for bacteria to grow into a large enough colony to break down the ammonia produced by your live stock load.

For filtration, I'd suggest a good sump to house filter socks or a filter pad (mechanical filtration), bio balls (biological and gas exchange), a pt skimmer (more mechanical filtration and gas exchange) and space for your heater (if you even need one). For power heads - only use those if you don't have a pump big enough to move the water enough in the tank itself.

Salt mix is just like you think. Mix it up outside the tank and have it ready to go when you are going to do a water change.
 

Mythic Figment

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 27, 2012
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Sounds like you have a good start. The pound per gallon on rock and sand is only a guideline - not something that is a 'need to have'. The reality of it is you need enough surface area for bacteria to grow into a large enough colony to break down the ammonia produced by your live stock load.

For filtration, I'd suggest a good sump to house filter socks or a filter pad (mechanical filtration), bio balls (biological and gas exchange), a pt skimmer (more mechanical filtration and gas exchange) and space for your heater (if you even need one). For power heads - only use those if you don't have a pump big enough to move the water enough in the tank itself.

Salt mix is just like you think. Mix it up outside the tank and have it ready to go when you are going to do a water change.
Thanks.

With the salt mix, should I mix it and let it settle/rest for any period of time or is it good to go as soon as I get the gravity correct?

Also, if I don't have room for a sump, what would be the next best filter type to use? I have never used a sump, but wanted to get into one when I was setting up my 125 gallon SA cichlids tank, but there wasn't room for one in the bottom or anywhere around it. I won't have room around the tank in the location I have picked out and the tank stand will be hit or miss as far as room for a sump goes.


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CanadianEH

Banned
May 5, 2013
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any type of filtration is great for saltwater, it only becomes a negative when you don't maintain them properly. Canisters are known to be the worst because they are a closed loop that doesn't get a lot of oxygen and derbis sits. I'd suggest the bio wheel HOB filters or AQUEON Quiet filters. The Aqueon I have come to love, even on my salt tank.
 

Zoodiver

As seen on TV
MFK Member
Aug 22, 2005
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South FL
Yeah, without a sump, I'd look into a good hang on the back style. Surface movement is HUGE with marine tanks to get proper gas exchange. I have both Aqueon and AquaClear HOB styles on my home tanks.
 

luv4scjjt

Feeder Fish
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Jun 12, 2012
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upstate ny
Something i found as very important and vital in the life of your future fish is patience. Dont rush out to get your fish untill yoru tank has been up and running for a few months. Then start with the hardiest fish and go from there. It takes a long time for a saltwater tank to become stable enough to give you warnings when something is wrong and not just crash and kill everything in your tank. I regretably not knowing what i was doing wrong lost way to many fish in the first yr because i went to the pet stores and brought home fish every weekend. My lack of patience killed many poor fish. So wait till it is done cycling (longer is always better) and only 1-2 fish at a time every month or so till stocking is complete. As for a tang. I have an orange shoulder tang and although they start of yellow they turn 2 beautiful shades of grey as they mature and he is an awsome fish. A 125 would be fine for them at maturity. And he dont mess with anyone in my tank.
 

CanadianEH

Banned
May 5, 2013
13
0
0
Dallas
I quit cycling tanks when I can afford bio spira and live sand right off the bat. It use to be spotty with the refrigerated stuff but they've gotten a lot better.
 

Mythic Figment

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 27, 2012
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Florida
Now I know that live rock can be expensive and many people buy plain old rock, put it in with some live rock and it will become live. If I were to go that route, how would I go about cycling the tank? And what ratio of live to "dead" rock should I do to ensure good growth to the dead rock without having to wait more than 3-4 weeks for it to be fish ready?

I know I have to wait on the flame angel to be the last fish I add to the tank because of its potential aggression, so I am wondering what to get first. How many Bangaii cardinals will I need to ensure they get along well without beating each other to death? I am thinking a group of 6 unless I need more.


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