Water change volume: MATH SOLUTION!!!

Yoimbrian

Dovii
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Feb 11, 2013
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So I'm pretty new to aquariums, but old to chemical engineering. If you think about an aquarium like a chemical reactor the food would be the reactant, the nitrate would be the product, and the fish / bacteria would be the catalysts. In that regard it is easy to calculate how much water to change, if you measure a few things first:

First pick a time frame, how often you want to change the water
Next, measure the nitrate build in your tank over that period of time
Then decide the max nitrate your fish can tolerate and be healthy
Finally, use this math

I = initial nitrate level (ppm)
G = gain in nitrate over your period of time (ppm)
F = Final / max nitrate level (ppm)
V = volume left after water is removed

Then we have

I + G = F, rearranged gives I = F - G
At steady state we want F x V = I so that it is the same change after change
substitute in you get F x V = F - G
So then solve for V = (F - G) / F

Water change % = (1 - V) *100%

For example you measure G to be 10 ppm per week and your max level is 40ppm

V = (40-10)/40 = .75 => % = 1-V *100% = 25% water change per week

This is assuming nitrates are the key thing to determine water changes.

Also, clearly, the G will change as your fish get bigger, so will need to be re-measured occasionally.

I just decided to do this because of all the threads asking for advice on how much water to change, and people seem to respond with pretty wild guesses based on their UNIQUE system. I looked for something like this and couldn't find it, if it's already been done o well. So the big question then becomes what F should be, and if you read the first sentence I'm way too new to aquariums to know that.

Any thoughts?
 

Anchovie

Feeder Fish
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Sep 19, 2012
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Elegant solution. I have never seen it laid out in an equation, but this is more or less what most of us have to figure out through experience. The equation would certainly help some newcomers, and I'd vote for this to be a sticky on the FAQ section. Assuming of course that the people asking this question can follow along. I feel like the majority of the new hobbyists asking basic questions like this tend to be younger people.


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Thelatinofishlover

Plecostomus
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Oct 17, 2012
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no math on mfk! thats what schools for! lol sorry man but i got kinda lost after "so im pretty new to aquariums"
 

Aquanero

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Ammonia should be 0. Nitrite should be 0, Nitrate should be 20ppm or lower and here lower is better as some fish are more susceptable to the toxic effects of nitrate than others (think Discus, Altum Angelfish, Oscars to name a few) once you start to approch the 40ppm mark your reaching the red zone. Depending on your stocking level, feeding schedule, filtration etc this could require more or less frequent water changes and general overall maintenance. This is where a good test kit comes in useful, test your tap water as a controll so you know what you are putting in the tank and test every couple of days to see where you are, once you see the nitrates rising to the max level for your stock do a water change. After a while you'll know how long you can go between water changes. Most people find a weekly 50% WC does the job add some Prime and your good to go. When it comes to water changes more is better.
 

duanes

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I agree with Tom, and try to keep my nitrate level at between 2-5 ppm, I believe nitrates levels of 20ppm to 40ppm causes low level stress, which leads to disease, or allowing normally benign bacteria to become problematic and cause bloat and HITH.
How many times have we seen the post "is this, or why does my Oscar holes in the head?"
My water source, Lake Michigan tap water has a nitrate level of <1ppm in the lake, but treatment with chloramine takes it up a bit.
The other factor, is the alkalinity of the tap water, mine leaves the tap at about 100ppm, but because of fish, their waste, decomposition of plants, and bacteria it normally drops by about 1/3 after a day or 2 in the tank without a water change.
This is acidification, so to me more water changes mean more stability, 20%-40% every other day does not seem too heavy to me.
 

rodger

Polypterus
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Apr 29, 2008
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Change 50% weekly and save test kits for when you think there might be a problem. No calculator needed.
 

Yoimbrian

Dovii
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Feb 11, 2013
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You guys apparently missed the point.

My example was an example, not what to aim for. If you want 5ppm, plug in 5ppm for F. The point was a way to actually calculate how to keep it at 5ppm without empirically figuring out how many and how big of water changes.


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