Cleaning a tank help needed.
- Thread starter Andy02793
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Water and vinegar and let it soak for a couple of hours. Then drain and refill with just water a couple of times
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I always use bleach when cleaning a used tank just make sure you rinse it well drain it then refill and add 5X the dechlorinator i use prime let sit for an hour or so (until you cant smell bleach) drain tank. Move tank to final position refill add the normal amount of prime add fish. Ive done this with all my used tanks and never had a prob.
Hello; I like to find a place outside if the weather is decent. (Usually the tailgate of my pickup for smaller tanks) I fill a tank up and let it stand with water for a while, this should soften up the stuff that can be softened. Rinse out the easy gunk.
A tank full of water is heavy and bulky, you may want to siphon out the rinse water to avoid potentially breaking of the glass from extra handling. I like to use a long clear plastic siphon hose of 1/2 to 5/8 inch diameter. After siphoning as much water from the tank while it is sitting flat, I raise up one end of the tank and with care place a piece of 2x4 under that end (the board needs to be longer than the tank is wide) (tall edge up to give 3 1/2 inches rise.) This sends the water to the other end where the siphon can pick it up while you spray water in the other side with a hose and flush the remaining loose junk.
You will likely have to start the siphon several times in water that you do not want in your mouth ( especially as this was a lizard tank - salmonella). This is why I use a clear plastic siphon that is plenty long so as to see where the water is. You can also often start a siphon by completely submerging a hose and then holding a thumb over one end and avoid the potential for water in the mouth.
I usually give a tank a good cleaning with a paste made from ordinary table salt (Without iodine) and a soft sponge. (Do not use a sponge or cloth that has been used with soap or chemicals.)(I have buckets and sponges that are used only for my tanks.)The salt paste does not scratch glass (be sure the sponge or cloth used to apply the paste with is not coarse enough to scratch the glass on its own and watch for bits of gravel that seem to jump into the salt paste.) The salt paste does a fair job at removing the deposits from the surface of the glass with a little rubbing. (Letting the salt paste dry to a haze should desiccate most critters if you want to somewhat disinfect a diseased tank.) I have used such a salt paste many times over the decades. Be sure to use NON-IODIZED table salt that can be found in grocery stores. The salt is cheap and rinses away well.
For stubborn mineral deposits, a razor blade in a holder that gives a firm grip is useful. Use a shallow the angle on the blade and keep an eye on the corners of the blade. The corners sometimes get bent and will scratch a thin line. A bit of vinegar can also help soften mineral deposits.
Rinse the salt paste out.
After I get a tank clean and it is still outside is a good time to fill it up and let it sit for several hours to a day or so. This gives leaks a chance to show up.
Another thing that has saved the bottom of an all glass tank is to be very careful in the handling of a tank. Be sure any place you plan to set the tank down has no raised bits that can contact the bottom of the glass. I often cut a sheet of plywood to place a tank on when moving and also under the tank when on the stand. Watch going thru doors for things like door knobs and such.
I also like to glue to the outside corners of a tank some clear plastic corner protectors. I have found such protectors that are made to protect the outside corners of wallpaper applications. They are often a bit wide so I trim them down and silicone them in place on the outside of an all glass tank. This helps prevent chips on a glass edge.
Good luck
A tank full of water is heavy and bulky, you may want to siphon out the rinse water to avoid potentially breaking of the glass from extra handling. I like to use a long clear plastic siphon hose of 1/2 to 5/8 inch diameter. After siphoning as much water from the tank while it is sitting flat, I raise up one end of the tank and with care place a piece of 2x4 under that end (the board needs to be longer than the tank is wide) (tall edge up to give 3 1/2 inches rise.) This sends the water to the other end where the siphon can pick it up while you spray water in the other side with a hose and flush the remaining loose junk.
You will likely have to start the siphon several times in water that you do not want in your mouth ( especially as this was a lizard tank - salmonella). This is why I use a clear plastic siphon that is plenty long so as to see where the water is. You can also often start a siphon by completely submerging a hose and then holding a thumb over one end and avoid the potential for water in the mouth.
I usually give a tank a good cleaning with a paste made from ordinary table salt (Without iodine) and a soft sponge. (Do not use a sponge or cloth that has been used with soap or chemicals.)(I have buckets and sponges that are used only for my tanks.)The salt paste does not scratch glass (be sure the sponge or cloth used to apply the paste with is not coarse enough to scratch the glass on its own and watch for bits of gravel that seem to jump into the salt paste.) The salt paste does a fair job at removing the deposits from the surface of the glass with a little rubbing. (Letting the salt paste dry to a haze should desiccate most critters if you want to somewhat disinfect a diseased tank.) I have used such a salt paste many times over the decades. Be sure to use NON-IODIZED table salt that can be found in grocery stores. The salt is cheap and rinses away well.
For stubborn mineral deposits, a razor blade in a holder that gives a firm grip is useful. Use a shallow the angle on the blade and keep an eye on the corners of the blade. The corners sometimes get bent and will scratch a thin line. A bit of vinegar can also help soften mineral deposits.
Rinse the salt paste out.
After I get a tank clean and it is still outside is a good time to fill it up and let it sit for several hours to a day or so. This gives leaks a chance to show up.
Another thing that has saved the bottom of an all glass tank is to be very careful in the handling of a tank. Be sure any place you plan to set the tank down has no raised bits that can contact the bottom of the glass. I often cut a sheet of plywood to place a tank on when moving and also under the tank when on the stand. Watch going thru doors for things like door knobs and such.
I also like to glue to the outside corners of a tank some clear plastic corner protectors. I have found such protectors that are made to protect the outside corners of wallpaper applications. They are often a bit wide so I trim them down and silicone them in place on the outside of an all glass tank. This helps prevent chips on a glass edge.
Good luck
well first you should actually find out if its a fish tank lol otherwise it wont hold water at all and bust or leak
Skjl48, does the salt paste work on the plastic frames or is it a no no.
I want to set back up my 26 and it looks terrible.
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I want to set back up my 26 and it looks terrible.
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Hello; Some of the tanks cleaned with a salt paste have had black plastictop and bottom frames. I have not noted any issues.
