Is it possible a tank can fail to cycle?

4D3

Gambusia
MFK Member
Jan 21, 2013
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Australia
Hi,

I have 2 tanks running 1 is 6x2x2 and the other is 2.5x2x1 and both have cloudy water.

The 6x2x2 is running a 2260, and a 2080 (currently broken but the bio media is in the flow of the water in the tank. When i test with the kits the ammonia is reading, on the 6x2x2 the liquid test is at about 8ppm the seachem ammonia alert in the tank is reading 0.02ppm (Safe) nitrate is 0 and nitrite 2ppm


The smaller tank is running a classic 2217 the ammonia is 0,25ppm, nitrate and nitrite is zero.

the tanks have been running for a months and the cloudyness is not subsiding
 

E.C.

I'm looking at your soul
MFK Member
Jun 28, 2013
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in the Living Water
Do you perform WC on it? Or maybe it's because of the substrate? Pics pls.
 

4D3

Gambusia
MFK Member
Jan 21, 2013
911
14
18
Australia
Do you perform WC on it? Or maybe it's because of the substrate? Pics pls.
both tanks are bare bottom, I did a water change a few days ago, but it has been like this for about 2 months, constantly milky water
 

js302

Candiru
MFK Member
Dec 4, 2005
650
10
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England
Hi,
I have 2 tanks running 1 is 6x2x2 and the other is 2.5x2x1 and both have cloudy water.
The 6x2x2 is running a 2260, and a 2080 (currently broken but the bio media is in the flow of the water in the tank. When i test with the kits the ammonia is reading, on the 6x2x2 the liquid test is at about 8ppm the seachem ammonia alert in the tank is reading 0.02ppm (Safe) nitrate is 0 and nitrite 2ppm
The smaller tank is running a classic 2217 the ammonia is 0,25ppm, nitrate and nitrite is zero.
the tanks have been running for a months and the cloudyness is not subsiding
hi

the 6x2x2
so how many times does the tank turn over per hour?
the appearance of nitrite implies cycling and bacterial colony establishment
but I agree that is a slow rate (2 months)
maybe get an airstone in, nitrifying bacteria are aerobic, I don’t know how much surface agitation you have but it is important.
Solution – get some bactozyme capsules in there (if available in Australia). There (or similar) are products available from any lfs to speed up cycling

the 2.5x2x1
Same as above although you cycling progress seems even worse here.

Could anything be killing your bacteria ?
Did you clean the tank with bleach or anything?
Are you w/c-ing with chlorinated water – surefire way to kill your bacteria.
You must have no uv filtration - which I don’t think you do.
Can you get some filter media from a friend ??
 

pigoo

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 25, 2013
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United States
I was just about to post the same thing as "fish n chips" above. It helps to have some small fish in the tank to create some "bio-load". The bacteria in the "Nitrogen Cycle" need "food" to survive. Ammonia excreted in the waste of fish is the "food" for the "cycle bacteria".

With no "ammonia food"...the cycle bacteria cannot thrive & multiply. Just like fish cannot thrive without food.
 

deeda

Silver Tier VIP
MFK Member
Mar 26, 2008
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If the ammonia is actually 8 ppm you need to bring it down to at least 3 ppm. The high ammonia is stalling your cycle.

What are you using to cycle the tanks?
 

David R

Blue Tier VIP
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Apr 26, 2005
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What are you using to provide ammonia for the cycle?

What is the temp?

What kind of test kits are you using and have you double-checked the readings with another test? I know I would struggle to get as accurate a reading as 0.02ppm with my liquid API test kit.
 

4D3

Gambusia
MFK Member
Jan 21, 2013
911
14
18
Australia
hi
Could anything be killing your bacteria ?
Did you clean the tank with bleach or anything?
Are you w/c-ing with chlorinated water – surefire way to kill your bacteria.
You must have no uv filtration - which I don’t think you do.
Can you get some filter media from a friend ??

My cycle broke down about 3 months ago, for some reason and has never recovered, I have UV but it is off.


I usually run a 2262 and a 2080, but the 2080 is currently out of action with a broken head....


If the ammonia is actually 8 ppm you need to bring it down to at least 3 ppm. The high ammonia is stalling your cycle.


What are you using to cycle the tanks?
like i said above my tank is already populated with fish, and cycle crashed for some reason months ago and it has never recovered.


In the 6x2x2 i have 3 30cm+ americans in there and 6 20cm americans in there also. I have nowhere to house the fish while the cycle fixes up
in the smaller tank there is 2 hoplo catfish 6cm each, 2 bristlenose about 5cm each and 1 zonatus about 6cm

What are you using to provide ammonia for the cycle?


What is the temp?


What kind of test kits are you using and have you double-checked the readings with another test? I know I would struggle to get as accurate a reading as 0.02ppm with my liquid API test kit.
as above, the cycle crashed on a populated tank and i have big fish.


the temp is 25 degrees on both tanks, I have double ceacked with another liquid kit and they are the same, i get the 0.02ppm reading from the Seachem Ammonia Alert disk that sits in the tank, it shows a "Yellow" colour that means "Safe"


I am unsure of what to do....my cycle crashed because my house is on rain water, my wife didnt tell me the tank was emptied and that she refilled it with town water which has chlorine and chloramine, I did an 80% water change with no Prime and everything collapsed.


now when i water change i turn off my canister for 10-15 mins while i add the new water and allow the Prime to mix through..


Should i do more water changes?
 
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