A litlle nitrate into my fishtank

tankbusterlover

tankbusterlover

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Nov 21, 2006
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Hi,

Ok i have a 10 gallon there's 3 danios and 3 gold barbs in there. The ammonia is 0. I just did a water change and tested the water and found a little nitrate. The result is just a little purple. I am guessing no more than 5mg of nitrate into my tank.

My tank maintenant rountine is that i test for ammonia and when i see some ammonia i change the water. When i change the water i also change the carbon catridge of the filter about every 2 weeks or once a month.

I don't really understand what is nitrate though. What should i do about my nitrate level ?

Berthierville-20130828-00135.jpgBerthierville-20130828-00136.jpgBerthierville-20130828-00137.jpg

Berthierville-20130828-00135.jpg

Berthierville-20130828-00136.jpg

Berthierville-20130828-00137.jpg
 
D

doomiedee

Fire Eel
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Nov 13, 2011
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David R

David R

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Apr 26, 2005
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In an established and properly filtered tank you should never see ammonia or nitrite regardless of how long it has been since you did a water change. Nitrate will always be detectable, and this is what you are removing/diluting by doing water changes.
 
Hydrocyanide

Hydrocyanide

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Mar 14, 2012
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Nitrate cycle:

Initial stage: The cycle begins when fish are introduced to the aquarium. Their feces, urine, as well as any uneaten food, are quickly broken down into either ionized or unionized ammonia. The ionized form, Ammonium (NH4), is present if the pH is below 7, and is not toxic to fish. The unionized form, Ammonia (NH3), is is present if the pH is 7 or above, and is highly toxic to fish. Any amount of unionized Ammonia (NH3) is dangerous, however once the levels reach 2 ppm, the fish are in grave danger. Ammonia usually begins rising by the third day after introducing fish.

Second stage: During this stage Nitrosomonas bacteria oxidize the ammonia, thus eliminating it. However, the by-product of ammonia oxidation is nitrite, which is also highly toxic to fish. Nitrites levels as low as low as 1 mg/l can be lethal to some fish. Nitrite usually begins rising by the end of the first week after introducing fish.

Third stage: In the last stage of the cycle, Nitrobacter bacteria convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not highly toxic to fish in low to moderate levels. Routine partial water changes will keep the nitrate levels within the safe range. Established tanks should be tested for nitrates every few months to ensure that levels are not becoming extremely high.
 
screaminleeman

screaminleeman

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Nov 27, 2009
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Don't worry about the nitrate at that level. That is stellar.

All local business establishments in a town right outside of where I live are required to post warning signs for citizens that the nitrate level of the water is .15 which is around twice what you have there.

I am not as bad a Finksburg, but my water comes out of the tap with a higher nitrate level than you have amassed in the picture. I don't however keep discus!
 
Chicxulub

Chicxulub

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Aug 29, 2009
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Hydrocyanide said:
Nitrate cycle:

Initial stage: The cycle begins when fish are introduced to the aquarium. Their feces, urine, as well as any uneaten food, are quickly broken down into either ionized or unionized ammonia. The ionized form, Ammonium (NH4), is present if the pH is below 7, and is not toxic to fish. The unionized form, Ammonia (NH3), is is present if the pH is 7 or above, and is highly toxic to fish. Any amount of unionized Ammonia (NH3) is dangerous, however once the levels reach 2 ppm, the fish are in grave danger. Ammonia usually begins rising by the third day after introducing fish.

Second stage: During this stage Nitrosomonas bacteria oxidize the ammonia, thus eliminating it. However, the by-product of ammonia oxidation is nitrite, which is also highly toxic to fish. Nitrites levels as low as low as 1 mg/l can be lethal to some fish. Nitrite usually begins rising by the end of the first week after introducing fish.

Third stage: In the last stage of the cycle, Nitrobacter bacteria convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not highly toxic to fish in low to moderate levels. Routine partial water changes will keep the nitrate levels within the safe range. Established tanks should be tested for nitrates every few months to ensure that levels are not becoming extremely high.
Click to expand...
Great post :thumbsup:

OP, 5ppm is a good number to have. No worries there, your filtration is functioning as it should.

Moved to setup and filtration.
 
tankbusterlover

tankbusterlover

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Nov 21, 2006
141
25
61
Quebec,CAnada
Hydrocyanide said:
Nitrate cycle:

Initial stage: The cycle begins when fish are introduced to the aquarium. Their feces, urine, as well as any uneaten food, are quickly broken down into either ionized or unionized ammonia. The ionized form, Ammonium (NH4), is present if the pH is below 7, and is not toxic to fish. The unionized form, Ammonia (NH3), is is present if the pH is 7 or above, and is highly toxic to fish. Any amount of unionized Ammonia (NH3) is dangerous, however once the levels reach 2 ppm, the fish are in grave danger. Ammonia usually begins rising by the third day after introducing fish.

Second stage: During this stage Nitrosomonas bacteria oxidize the ammonia, thus eliminating it. However, the by-product of ammonia oxidation is nitrite, which is also highly toxic to fish. Nitrites levels as low as low as 1 mg/l can be lethal to some fish. Nitrite usually begins rising by the end of the first week after introducing fish.

Third stage: In the last stage of the cycle, Nitrobacter bacteria convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not highly toxic to fish in low to moderate levels. Routine partial water changes will keep the nitrate levels within the safe range. Established tanks should be tested for nitrates every few months to ensure that levels are not becoming extremely high.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for this information. There is a lot of stuff to learn in fishkeeping. Just wondering since my fish are not in the correct schooling numbers, if i upgrade to a 20 gallon could i keep 6 gold barbs and 6 danios in there ? The 20 would already be overcrowded i think if i follow the one inch a gallon rule.

I just want to make sure than my chest of drawers could hold the weight of the tank

There is about 3 or 4 small fish i am interested in

Gold Barb
Odessa barbs
Zebra danios
tiger endlers

I seem to really like zebra danios. Guppies and platies are pretty but not my thing
 
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