Drilling my 75g and building a sump

adixon816

Jack Dempsey
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Oct 11, 2012
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Piscataway, NJ
Just got a 75g recently and am going to get it drilled on Friday. I'm going to run the drain through the rear (as the bottom is tempered) hopefully as an external durso set up. It is going down to a 40b that will be filled with lava rock for bio media and use a mag5 (that I already own) as a return pump. I guess my first question is with the return, how do I plumb the return back to the tank? I wanted to do a spray bar so do I just run it over the rim of the tank? Also how do I decide where the drain hole is drilled is there some type of calculation? Will having an external durso set my water level to low, do I have other options? I see so many things about sumps and I'm just plain old confused.
 

adixon816

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 11, 2012
627
1
33
Piscataway, NJ
Maybe I'm more lost then I think - I did not have any plans to use an overflow box I wanted the drain to set the level of the tank and drain straight down to the sump if a durso is not an option i would just use a strainer on a bulkhead into a pipe down to the sump like all the drilled 10's and 20's I have. I'm going for cheap here pretty much noise isn't the biggest issue to me but the quieter the better.
 

adixon816

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 11, 2012
627
1
33
Piscataway, NJ
Eh ended up changing my mind, going to do a DIY canister with smaller lava rocks as bio media and sponge/floss for mechanical powered by a mag7. Doesn't seem to make sense to spend so much money on a 75.
 

duanes

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Drilling spot is just a matter of preference, although the closer you drill to the edge, the easier it is to crack the tank.
I use an upturned PVC elbow as an overfow (no need for a box), and prefer to drill so the top of the hole is about 3" from the top edge.

The plumbing for the return pipe does not need to be drilled in, it can simply set on top of the tank, whether using a spray bar, or not.
 

adixon816

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 11, 2012
627
1
33
Piscataway, NJ
Drilling spot is just a matter of preference, although the closer you drill to the edge, the easier it is to crack the tank.
I use an upturned PVC elbow as an overfow (no need for a box), and prefer to drill so the top of the hole is about 3" from the top edge.

The plumbing for the return pipe does not need to be drilled in, it can simply set on top of the tank, whether using a spray bar, or not.
Thanks for the info, I decided to do a DIY canister for the simple fact of cost and limited amount of time I'll be using the tank. Will cost me less to create the canister then it would be to get a single hole drilled.
 

duanes

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That's why I drill my tanks myself, it is unbelievably easy.
I have now drilled at least 8 tanks with the same drill bit (and will probably do at least another 8 more), from as small as 20 gallon tanks, to 120 gal.
 

adixon816

Jack Dempsey
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Oct 11, 2012
627
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Piscataway, NJ
Eventually I'll tackle drilling my own tanks. For now I have decided to go with dual DIY pvc overflows down to the tank, my question now pertains to the sump. I'd like to not do a trickle system and do submerged media. My plan would be to have the water flow into the sump a bit above the waterline (splashing will help with aeration yes?), through a filter sock and into one large chamber with about 50-75lbs of lava rock. Do I need an additional chamber for the pump/heater or can they just go into one big chamber to.

Here's a picture and here's my questions



Should the heater go in position 1 or 2. Is 3rd chamber labeled as 3 necessary? I am not really interested in a trickle system so I want to keep this basic. Just trying to get everything out of my display and stop using the hob's. If the lava rock is really not ideal I can order two gallons of matrix. Just trying to save money here getting married soon and all.
 

duanes

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I prefer to not use a trickle system, and fill my sumps about 2/3 to the top.
I personally do not think compartments are needed, because filter socks can be hung on any pipe to the sump, and heaters, bags of biomedia and pumps can go anywhere.
The reason I started drilling, is because I find normal overflow boxes with siphons are easily plugged with a dead fish, or plant debris, and I ended up with tanks overflowing onto the floor, and pumps ending up in an almost dry sump, and burning out.
I still have a few siphon overflows, but will eventually drill all 20 or so tanks, I'm about half way as of now.
 

adixon816

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 11, 2012
627
1
33
Piscataway, NJ
I prefer to not use a trickle system, and fill my sumps about 2/3 to the top.
I personally do not think compartments are needed, because filter socks can be hung on any pipe to the sump, and heaters, bags of biomedia and pumps can go anywhere.
The reason I started drilling, is because I find normal overflow boxes with siphons are easily plugged with a dead fish, or plant debris, and I ended up with tanks overflowing onto the floor, and pumps ending up in an almost dry sump, and burning out.
I still have a few siphon overflows, but will eventually drill all 20 or so tanks, I'm about half way as of now.
I'm taking your advice I ordered the stuff to drill the tank today guide bit and bulkheads. Going to do a coast to coast overflow with beananimal drains on 1.5" bulkheads and 1.5" piping. Plumb the return over the top and Y it to separate the flow. I just need to decide how far apart and how far from the edge to drill. I most likely won't even do chambers then. Does your drain go into your sump above or below the water line. I'm just worried about aeration if there is no wet dry portion.
 

duanes

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My drains, drain above the water line, simply pouring into the sump with filter socks just below the pipes at the water line, or into biotowers, if there is enough room to stand them in the sump.

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