Hi there I have a 3300 freshwater set up ive plumbed in a avast mutiny ozone reactor 3 and a newjet 3000 and a cleartides 300 reactor,as carbon scrubber, I have a bigger one comeing avast mr16,my problem is my orp drops when I run it all up, if I run the air at 2scfh I get 4-500mv at reactor exit so I know its working if I crank the air up more I get say to 3-4 scfh I get 750 ish which is good right? So why does the orp drop away am I not scrubing the ozone enuf bigger carbon reactor coming, or pump for or air flow to fast? I dont get whats going on .help,.thanks
ozone freshwater help!
- Thread starter candle1212
- Start date
heres a few more results I turned the water pump to minimum put the phrobe into the exit and ajusted the air to 1scfh which gave me 550mv odd and turned it to 2scfh which gave me 75o
heres a few more results I turned the water pump to minimum put the phrobe into the exit and ajusted the air to 1scfh which gave me 550mv odd and turned it to 2scfh which gave me 750 ish and then started tank readings again, at first it starts to drop and then picked up very quickly, which I shut it off to bring orp up slow, then on restart the same happend again , why the drop before the pick up,at this point I stopped and replaced the silicone air drying beads with new ones, and then nothing again just drops away,! ! So played with the air up down lol driving me mad , so checked again at the exit point with the phrobe and it was only 400 at the 2scfh weird the new beads changed things , this time I had to give it 4-5 scfh to get it back up to the 750mv replacing the the phrobe back into the tank I will have to wait for it to settle to try again i rushed the last settle in time last time and hit 400 odd opps,it seams slow water flow was good, and a good psi air pump I have aqua medic needle valve linked to the avast scfh gauge to ajust air flow, I have two mv units so they could keep an eye on each other the aquatronica and a aquamedic but the new aquamedic one was faulty and waiting for a replacement phrobe but it looks like i will need one in the tank and one on reactor exit so I can ajust this as needed. the water is looking clearer now the mv is around 275-300, does the water take time to change and get used to being modified the drop before the pick up is stange , I also plumbed the carbon exit to a bottle or chamber if you like to separate the air and water drilled a hole in the bottle top float on its side with hole in top and 4 in the bottom runs sweetnow the hole in the top runs to outside very simple and no in door smell at all now.
From what I can make out on the net ozone in freshwater is a lot more effective I think I need to get a manual test kit from some were as well my monitor is taking time to settle backdown its bouncing up and down 275 to 308 but getting more stable and im waiting for the second phrobe, also I think I did not dry the silicon beads out enough colour was not as it should have been , I now dryed the original set out ,color is better, think I need to step back a bit and let it all settle in , frustration got in there, at first i brought my ozone reactor from ebay a new one I will not say the name not very robust ending up having pressure leaks crap seals and very thin materials that drove me mad and chucked it in then end and got the avast mutiny 3 lot better more robust better main seal just a joy to set up really just have to put the pump in a filter sock because the spray nozzle blocked up twice with sand particles which drops pressure which stopped it from producing any usable ozone, probably wait till the mr16 carbon reactor comes now and I will convert the cleartides 300 to separate the water and air to go out side.i put more result on later as finding threads on freshwater ozone is almost not there it seams, a few discus/ray keepers may be,im on a water meter so i cant flush the system through like I used to , and soaking away the waste water ,and I wanted that crystal clearwater that ozone gives.
Although I do not use ozone in my aquariums, I worked at a drinking water treatment plant that uses ozone as its initial disinfectant.
Because the water is constantly changing the orp readings would also fluctuate (just as water would in aquaria due to metabolism etc), and because an ozone reactor creates it own ozone, due to slight fluctuations to nitrogen in the air (one of the most important gases in its creation) the concentration of ozone also fluctuates.
Our ozone meters numbers were always in constant flux, and we came to expect this bouncing around of numbers.
For capturing a moment in time read of ozone concentration, we used the Indigo Blue trisulphonate method, and found it to be most accurate. The Indigo reagent had a limited shelf life, and we found a weekly batch was the best way to get accurate measure for daily testing.
Each test also had to be in tandem with a DI blank, beside the aliquot to maintain accuracy.
The problem I see for most aquarists that want accurate measure, is that the computer chip colorimeter device cost more than my truck, and needed very high tech maintenance for calibration.
For our purposes the machine paid for itself, as it was also used for ammonia, phosphate and testing many other neede water perameters
It seems you must be typing on your phone, because the sentences run together, and may be why your post is hard to understand
Because the water is constantly changing the orp readings would also fluctuate (just as water would in aquaria due to metabolism etc), and because an ozone reactor creates it own ozone, due to slight fluctuations to nitrogen in the air (one of the most important gases in its creation) the concentration of ozone also fluctuates.
Our ozone meters numbers were always in constant flux, and we came to expect this bouncing around of numbers.
For capturing a moment in time read of ozone concentration, we used the Indigo Blue trisulphonate method, and found it to be most accurate. The Indigo reagent had a limited shelf life, and we found a weekly batch was the best way to get accurate measure for daily testing.
Each test also had to be in tandem with a DI blank, beside the aliquot to maintain accuracy.
The problem I see for most aquarists that want accurate measure, is that the computer chip colorimeter device cost more than my truck, and needed very high tech maintenance for calibration.
For our purposes the machine paid for itself, as it was also used for ammonia, phosphate and testing many other neede water perameters
It seems you must be typing on your phone, because the sentences run together, and may be why your post is hard to understand
Arr thanks for that its still going up and down almost 1mv every few minute but not as high /low now tho.
do people running ozone in marine get this bounce or is it just freshwater , or just my probe settling.
im not going to run it any more till I can up the carbon to the correct amount.
The water looks lots clearer now and I will try to get a test kit,I was worried I was putting ozone into the tank becuse of not enough carbon, but the pump was on its slowest setting and I get my other phobe and see what that one does.im using a tablet not a pc I try to space things better.
sorry I was never good at school in the English hand writing lessons.
do people running ozone in marine get this bounce or is it just freshwater , or just my probe settling.
im not going to run it any more till I can up the carbon to the correct amount.
The water looks lots clearer now and I will try to get a test kit,I was worried I was putting ozone into the tank becuse of not enough carbon, but the pump was on its slowest setting and I get my other phobe and see what that one does.im using a tablet not a pc I try to space things better.
sorry I was never good at school in the English hand writing lessons.
Having ozone carry over into the main tank is the often the most serious problem.
If I was running ozone in aquarium, I would have the ozonation unit effluent, exit to the mechanical media in the sump, as opposed to directly in the tank. That way, any excess ozone would be used up oxidizng detritus, instead of doing damage to tank inhabitants.
As to its reaction in sea or fresh water, I don't have that knowledge.
To quench excess ozone in drinking water, we use calcium thiosulfate injection (drip).
If I was running ozone in aquarium, I would have the ozonation unit effluent, exit to the mechanical media in the sump, as opposed to directly in the tank. That way, any excess ozone would be used up oxidizng detritus, instead of doing damage to tank inhabitants.
As to its reaction in sea or fresh water, I don't have that knowledge.
To quench excess ozone in drinking water, we use calcium thiosulfate injection (drip).
After the mr16 carbon unit which is as big as the ozone unit , I was going to use the cleartides 300 and modd it, cut a 20mm hole in the bottom for water exit,and cut the return pipe that runs from bottom to top and now and use that as the in let pipe and the air will rise to the old in let to the out side hope that makes sense and I spose I could also add some do you mean like plastic bio balls for mechanical media or like porous filter balls?or /and to slow things down more.
its is sat in the sump and after the 300 unit the exit of that I was going to run a pipe to the uv pump.
I have 4 large newjet pumps in the last sump 3 power the main water flow and one runs 2 tmc vectron 600 uvs I was going to sit the pipe next to the intake I hear uv scrubs ozone well?
thanks for your ideas
its is sat in the sump and after the 300 unit the exit of that I was going to run a pipe to the uv pump.
I have 4 large newjet pumps in the last sump 3 power the main water flow and one runs 2 tmc vectron 600 uvs I was going to sit the pipe next to the intake I hear uv scrubs ozone well?
thanks for your ideas
I did see in one internet write up that ozone in freshwater kills upto 90 percent of bacteria were in seawater it was like 50 percent for the same test becuse of the salt, but dont quote me to much on that I know nothing really lol.
so it seams more dangerous in freshwater easier to sterilize.
so it seams more dangerous in freshwater easier to sterilize.
