Looking for help to improve moving bed K1 filter in 100 gal stock tank

I have a 100 gallon stock tank as a moving bed filter. Water comes in through 200 micron filter socks, agitated in 100 liters of K1 by a Pondmaster AP100 air pump and returned to aquarium. Water parameters are fine but water isn't crystal clear. If I use 100 micron socks they need changed daily and I'm still not happy. I am considering using a sand pool filter to just polish the water. I don't need any help biologically, just need to collect the fine dust that makes it past the socks. I think a sand filter requires a huge pump because the sand compacts so easily. I don't have an issue with backflushing twice a week since that will take care of water changes. I know that a bead filter is standard for this application, but I don't have a concern about making this a bio filter just particulate matter. I currently have this hooked to an overstocked 240 and have 2 filter socks collecting turds. I am in the process of building a 600+ that will run on the same sump. I can (in theory) have about 55 lbs of fish running off of this MB sump. I planned on 4-6 socks catching the turds from the additional tank.

I am a tightwad, but I don't want my cheapness to cause me to spend more in the end, so here is the plan in my head. An 18" Hayward pool sand filter. It is designed for 2600 GPH flow. I have zero foreseeable problems with the current filtration system taking future upgrades biologically. I will use this pump, or similar: http://www.calponds.com/Elite-Pumps/Elite-800-Pumps-p-6703.html I will split the flow between the two tanks. I will use circulation pumps to move water and make sure all turds go to overflows and socks. For the big tank I have two used MP60WES Vortech 7000 GPH tidal wave makers In the 240 I will get something more in line with the size of the tank.

I can also send some water filtered in the current manner by my current Laguna pond pump that won't be polished if that is needed. I intend to add a drip system to this as well. I haven't figured out all of the logistics to this, yet. So........ what do you who know more than me think? Am i putting a urine stream up a rope, or will it work?
Thanks

LOL......the problem is I am returning particulate filled water. I am using a Laguna Max Flo 4280 in a 240 gal tank. Turnover ain't an issue. Biologically the water is clean.

I will be adding the big tank in a couple months, after it is done.

No, just before. How do you use socks after the MB?

If I can incorporate that I would run 50 or maybe 25 micron socks. There are no compartments in the sump, just a Rubbermaid stock tank. Water comes in a pipe, pours into socks and churns till it returns.

DIDYSIS said:

How many filter socks? And what size?
Can you use the 7x32 inch socks?
I have found the 32inch long socks are great for high loads. Each of my overflow pipes are split for 2 socks each. On a 600 gallon tank with 4 socks 7x17 they were lasting about a week. 100 micron. Since going to the 32 long I get much more time out of them.
Also how are you washing your socks?
Are your socks 90 percent submerged or out of the water at least 50-75 percent?

Sent from the Monster Fish Keeping App

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My socks are about 1/3 submersed. I use two 7X16" socks. If I went with the long socks I would have a good amount just laying on the bottom. The top of the socks are about 28" off the bottom. I wash them in the washing machineon a gentle load, cold, inside out. I think maybe I am beating them to death as I pull a lot of pilling off of them. Should I just use a hose to know most off and bleach them> I use the propolyne instead of the polyester. I was told they hold up longer, but I have nothing to compare to.
How deep is your sump? 32" is mighty deep!

DB junkie said:

I build stand alone reactors....... The one on my big system is fed from the sock tank (55 gallon acrylic with 4 2" in drains) I use (4) 200/100 micron socks in there. Water gravity flows out of reactor through 2" drains into the sump, a 100/50 sock hangs there to catch all the dead bio from the reactor.

The smaller system uses an auxiliary pump in the sump after the socks to pump up to the UV then drains into the reactor, reactor then drains into the sump where there's a 100/50 sock prior to hitting the return pumps.

I always had issues with K1 sticking to the return pump intakes, water level fluctuation, along with the added bonus of being able to use the gravity fed incoming water to help boil the media were all factors that pushed me to run them this way as opposed to a reactor and sump in one.

Would it be possible to add another stock tank as the "sump"? I imagine that 800+ gallons worth of tank with a 100 gallon sump would lead to issues at power cuts, given the volume I'd expect large water level fluctuations...... Mite not be an issue now, but would think it may be once the other tank is added......

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Sounds like a very complicated system as well as taking up a lot of real estate. Yes, I am going to have to be very precise in the water level in the sump to not have overflows when the other tank is incorporated. I have thought about having all of the water going into a barrel / settling chamber and then into the sump. I am going to be very limited with space and not sure I have room. No way can I fit another stock tank.
How do the dual micron socks work? Do you have to clean with bleach, because I don't see how to clean the smaller micron layer.