Help with drip system starter kit plz...

davenmandy

Peacock Bass
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Feb 1, 2012
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I am moving to a new house in November, and since I will own this house instead of renting I want to finally set up an auto-drip system. I have done some research, so I know the basics of it. My sump has a hole drilled near the bottom on both sides, one on the side with the chamber of bioballs and one on the open side of the sump. I am planning to put PVC going upwards in the open part of sump from the hole to drain and keep it at the level I want it to, think it's a 1 inch hole thats plugged right now, maybe smaller, I will use 1 inch PVC piping I think. That part is easy enough.

The tank is on a split level, it's in the walkout basement portion but right near the stairs that go upwards to my kitchen, so I am probably going to tap the water right near the sink, keep the carbon filter or whatever you guys recommend right under the sink and run the line parallel along the wall down into my sump on the lower level. Tank is a 7x4x2, 400 gal, with a 90 gal sump. 2 Mag 1800's and a 3600 GPH pump, 65 watt UV. Stock is 3 leo rays, plan to add a pbass im growing out but thats it. I live in London Ontario, PH out of tap is around 7.8 I believe, nitrates can get high in winter, but in general water quality is good and I heard that many people don't even use prime because the chlorine and chloramine is so low (though I do wonder what the flouride in our water does to our fish).

What I need advice on:

Can anyone recommend particular filter to run the water through?

How many GPH drip would you recommend for my system? Or G per day or whatever.

Any particular controllers/timers that are recommended and easy to set up?

Anything else I should know before starting this project, in terms of tapping the water, filter maintenance, effective ways of calculating the drip, etc?

I guess what I am mainly looking for is the names (or Home Depot links) to particular products you guys have had success with, and a small description of how you run your setup.

Appreciated as always.
 

Lepisosteus

Potamotrygon
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May 20, 2014
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I cant really help with this thread but I'm wondering the same. Or is there a way to put a drip system through an ro/di filter?
 

davenmandy

Peacock Bass
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Feb 1, 2012
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Also never thought of this till now, but what kind/size of tubing do you guys use from your water source?

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carl_d_c

Exodon
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Jun 21, 2014
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Just don't use a piercing valve/saddle valve, they're going to leak in time, trust me, I do renovation and repair work, and have had to repair water damage caused by them on a number of occasions. Add a "T" and proper shut off valve for your supply line.
 

vamptrev

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Apr 23, 2007
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Just don't use a piercing valve/saddle valve, they're going to leak in time, trust me, I do renovation and repair work, and have had to repair water damage caused by them on a number of occasions. Add a "T" and proper shut off valve for your supply line.
I wonder why they leak? Not installed properly?

Ive been using them for over 10 years now and never had a leak




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rodger

Polypterus
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Apr 29, 2008
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I cant really help with this thread but I'm wondering the same. Or is there a way to put a drip system through an ro/di filter?
If you do that, you have to also run a line from another water source. You can't run straight RO water.
 

DB junkie

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Jan 27, 2007
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Here's what I did -

Hookup for clothes washer - doubled it. Now 2 hot and 2 cold valves. Used appliance (T) to run hot and cold together. Ran more appliance water line over to the closet where my fish stuff is. That appliance line runs into 3 whole house water filter housings. I just use DuPont "whole house water filters" they are a 5 micron sediment/carbon filter. Now these 5 microns plug fast, so what I do is take the 3rd filter - install it first in line, then replace the other 2 (sold in packs of 2) by rotating them like this you're not subjecting the new filters to the sediment.

After the whole house housings I just went 3/4" PVC - bushings down to 1/4 valves. Think there's like 5 valves. 4 run out to tanks and 1 to the ice maker. I just use the valves to control flow. Someone looks sick or didn't eat crack the valve overnight and "flush" that tank. Just be sure your drain line can handle 1/4" line ran wide open......

I tried using various kinds of RV hose instead of appliance hose cause its safe for potable water and the hose is cheap. Well - they leak. Appliance hose is meant to be on all the time - costs more but doesn't leak.

Now by mixing the cold and hot you can use the valves to adjust the drip temp - drip cold in summer, warm in winter and this will help heat/cool the tanks.

You can look at a drip the same as an RO system minus the membrane.

This system can be a life saver in the event of loosing power. I have a gas hot water heater so if my power goes out in the dead of winter I just run the drips wide open with warm water.
 

davenmandy

Peacock Bass
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Awesome. Will be implementing this exact thing pretty much asap. I'm moving mid November, if you have time please post pictures. Particularly interested in size of your drain overflow, and how you went about doubling the faucet. How much do you drip for your system? Thanks for the post.

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DB junkie

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No idea where I'm at as far as gallons/day but roughly 17-21K gallons/month. This is for 1200, 650, and 550 gallon systems that are on continuous drips.

Looks hillbilly but has worked fine for years.....

Drains for drips are all 1" which seems to handle 1/4" line wide open no problem.

I have 1" line running out from the filters along with the 1/4 line to fill tanks but it's still crazy slow due to the dinky appliance line running to the filters. My house is a rental so I can't get too crazy with the pluming. :(

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davenmandy

Peacock Bass
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Feb 1, 2012
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I am moving it in a few weeks, will be a month tops before this is up and running for me. I think i found a way to get my sump into the level below the tank, right beside my basement sink. Thinking about doubling the tap and dropping it via valve through a filter sock into the sump, through a carbon filter along the way I assume (this is what I am least sure about, if anyone has any links to a good one or what to look for). Anything I am really missing out of that? What kind of filter socks to keep the ppm tds down out of the tap? My tap water is pretty good in the city (assume a 15 minute distance to new place will not make a difference in water quality).

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