Auto water change with float valve help

piscavore pisces · Oct 12, 2014

Ok so I have a tank that shares a wall with a bathroom. I have a few questions on an auto water change set up. The tank is only 75 gallons but has a 55 gallon sump ha. Anyway I plan on using a pump on a timer to pump out excess water from my sump a few times a day. I then plan on refilling the sump with the use of a float valve. I got the idea by reading threads on this forum. Anyway I have a few questions. I already have a 1/4" T that goes from my sink's water supply (near where you can turn the valve on or off for the cold water supply under the sink). I had it for my DI/RO system when I kept a nano reef. Anyway I plan on using that to supply the 1/4" line to the float valve. What I want to know is if I can just run straight line from my filter that removes chloramines directly to the float valve or will I need some kind of pressure regulator? If the water is there but the valve is closed most the time will it cause a build up in pressure with the potential to possible burst?

My next question is about which filter to get. I see that a lot of people get the chloramine remover from the filter guys. I already have an RO/DI unit from bulk reef supply. Can I just swap out the contents of the containers with the chloramine package from the filter guys? This is the unit I have http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-75gpd-2.html

Also this is the float valve I was thinking about getting http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077RAUTA...=UTF8&colid=4PCWESVCVLOT&coliid=IM6Q10LIX0G1K Any input or do you have a link to something better?

Thanks in advance

Drstrangelove · Oct 12, 2014

I haven't done what you're trying to do, so keep that in mind as I just might have totally misunderstood your post.

But it seems to me that you might have 2 things that could turn into a disaster:

1) the pump comes on and doesn't turn off
2) the float valve gets stuck

If I'm wrong, or you are doing something that keeps those 2 from not failing, then I'm right there with you.

Yoimbrian · Oct 12, 2014

Don't do it that way.

Just plumb a hose from your sump to a drain that is always open, at the water height you want to maintain. Then plumb a line from your fresh water line to the sump with a throttling valve. Set the valve to drip at a rate you want.

With that method there is no worst case scenario as long as the drain line is bigger than the fill line (except maybe reallllly clean water).

As per your other question RO filters work differently than chloramine filters. They pass the water through and send half to the drain, chloramine just goes through a cartridge. So I doubt they are interchangeable, but maybe you can rig something.

Good luck.

Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app

reptilerescued · Oct 12, 2014

As Yoimbrian said the two filters are different.
The RO unit is semipermeable with a rejection rate. The chloramine filter is most likely a charcoal filter that is 100 % permeable.

The filters are not interchangeable the RO unit is also under considerable pressure. There should be a gauge in the intake and one on the out flow to measure delta pressure. This is so you know when you need new RO filters. The chlorine filter won't be under any more pressure then your standard water pipe pressure. You will also need a outlet valve on the chlorine filter to check for your chlorine ppm daily.
Once you know how often you need to replace the media in the chlorine filter you can check it less often.
BUT if you don't have a back up chlorine filter and you DO have a "blow through" yer gonna know it. A chlorine blow through will happen fast and sudden.

It's also good to know the math for the RO unit so you can figure your rejection rate. That would also be a good indicator for when it's time to replace the semipermeable filters.

Rich

Gill Blue · Oct 12, 2014

Yoimbrian said:
Don't do it that way.

Just plumb a hose from your sump to a drain that is always open, at the water height you want to maintain. Then plumb a line from your fresh water line to the sump with a throttling valve. Set the valve to drip at a rate you want.

With that method there is no worst case scenario as long as the drain line is bigger than the fill line (except maybe reallllly clean water).

don't forget a shutoff at the feedpoint.

however, as far as the filter goes, I'm not familiar with either product personally, if both are standard sized it should be feasible. I removed the reverse osmosis membrane and storage tank from this filter and just run one standard paper and 2 standard charcoal filters so I'm not dumping all that water. I use it for ice and drinking water. works great.

you might be able to use something like this.

piscavore pisces · Oct 12, 2014

Drstrangelove said:
1) the pump comes on and doesn't turn off
2) the float valve gets stuck

If I'm wrong, or you are doing something that keeps those 2 from not failing, then I'm right there with you.

Well the drain pump will be set to a timer to only come on at set times throughout the day. Only when it comes on and drains will the level drop and float allow the incoming water in. If the power goes out then no water is changed. If the float gets stuck i imagine it getting stuck closed. I worst case scenario if that happens is the sump runs dry and my pumps burn out but that's better than a flood.

Yoimbrian said:
Don't do it that way.

Just plumb a hose from your sump to a drain that is always open, at the water height you want to maintain. Then plumb a line from your fresh water line to the sump with a throttling valve. Set the valve to drip at a rate you want.

With that method there is no worst case scenario as long as the drain line is bigger than the fill line (except maybe reallllly clean water).

Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app

I'd love to do it this way only I have no floor drain. Hence the need to pump out the water. The height my sump is at I'd have to tap the sink drain below the trap and that doesn't seem wise imo. I wish I could drill a hole in the wall to lead outside but that's not an option either.

piscavore pisces · Oct 12, 2014

reptilerescued said:
As Yoimbrian said the two filters are different.
The RO unit is semipermeable with a rejection rate. The chloramine filter is most likely a charcoal filter that is 100 % permeable.

The filters are not interchangeable the RO unit is also under considerable pressure. There should be a gauge in the intake and one on the out flow to measure delta pressure. This is so you know when you need new RO filters.

Rich

This was an excellent explination thanks a bunch. Do you have a link to a chloramine filter I should use? For n some reason I can't find it on thy filter guy site.

Also not sure if it was answered but would I need some sort of pressure regulator for the new water coming in?

reptilerescued · Oct 12, 2014

Thanks I work with commercial medical RO units on a daily basis.
Our RO filters are under 180 PSI going in and 142 to 160 coming out. Anything greater then 160 and we change the filters.

I don't have a link to any filters. The very few times I've needed RO water for a hospital tank I just brought it home from work.
Also if you want heated/warm water just just add blending valves. One on the hot one on the cold both lines into a single line and and a temp gauge on that.

For your pump I would just use a new high quality sump pump with a float. and put the intake water on a timer.
water comes on and rised sump comes on. Water shuts off then, the sump shuts off when the desired water level is reached.

Your chlorine filter is going to be the biggest filter out of the bunch. Ours are right @ 6 ft tall.
And no we don't use special charcoal and again no it can't be regenerated like the DI tanks can.
( two bigest questions I get about our RO rooms @ work)
For a look @ one of the smaller RO rooms I work in see link. To me it's MOST IMPRESSIVE.
Most find it so technical that they call it boring as they don't understand how it works.

I know way more about water then anyone should, but then again I like the water room.
The other RN's just shake their heads @ me.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/f...at-work-for-you-hard-core-Revers-Osmosis-guys

Any questions on RO just ask away. I either will know or I can log into works intraweb and find out.

Rich


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Auto water change with float valve help

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