120g FW Build, A big upgrade from my 10g!

matseski

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 30, 2014
107
12
18
United States
Hi all,

I currently have a 10g tank with a few tetra and snails just chugging along, but I am in need of something bigger. It's just no fun to go to the fish store and realize that you can only get a few fish since your tank is so small. So to fix that!

Having been inspired by all the great work here, and in an effort to make this affordable, I am starting my 120g build. Much of it is still up in the air, but it will be a freshwater system, based around a Aqueon 120g dual overflow tank. I will be building a stand, canopy, and sump, but am still ironing out all the details. I figure I am going to have to live with this system for a few years so I might a well ask those who have some experience to see if I am headed in the right direction. I have done months of reading, but now it is time to finalize some design decisions and start building! I am still debating if I want to go planted or not, so I am trying to keep my options open.

Tank: 120g pre-drilled Aqueon with dual overflows. Debating if I want to build a 3D background...

Stand: 2x4 construction with 3/4" plywood. I will post some drawings of my plans once they are finished. Matching canopy with fluorescent and blue LED moon lighting. Fans to circulate air.

Overflow: Herbie system seems to be the way to go for this size tank. The tank will be in my living room, so I want it to be as quiet as possible. Thinking of 2 drains, 2 emergencies in the overflows, with the return coming up the back and over the top. I believe the tank is drilled for a 3/4" and 1" on each side. Would it be wise to switch which size is the drain and emergency so I have a 3/4" and 1" drain and emergency? Or should they match? Emergencies will run straight into the sump, the one drain will have to have a bend to go through the filter media.

Sump: Picture of plan to come, but I want some space that I can use as a refugium. Currently leaning towards the Mag 18 pump which should give me about 1100-1200gph at 3-4' head. I have been thinking of ways to make water changes easier by using the pump to empty water from the tank by opening a valve to a hose, but am not sure if this is smart or not. Again, will post plans soon.

That's about as far as I have gotten so far. Looking for any other insight of small additions or things to save money on upkeep, make the system more efficient and upgrade friendly, and make maintenance easier.

I will post some of my current plans tonight for some feedback.

Thanks for all the help and insight in advance!
 

mudbuttjones

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2014
1,375
58
66
Wisconsin
Im working on a 90g build

Some tips-

Unless the 120 is really old it prpbably has 4 1" bulkheads. If not, make the smaller the siphon and the larger the emergency. A 1" siphon has been reported to flow well beyond 1000gph

If your doing a herbie I would do 1 pipe with a gate valve and an emergency in one overflow, the other overflow do 2 low flow (durso style) or a low flow and another emergency. Something like that. What configuration you do is up to you but tuning multiple siphons is difficult. I would stick with 1 herbie.

Your also probably going to have more than 3-4 ft of head. 5-6 is more realistic.
Make your stand tall, give your self some room to work in the sump. You'll be happy

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matseski

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 30, 2014
107
12
18
United States
I already have the tank, found it on Craigslist a few days ago for $275, seemed like a good deal for a drilled 120g.

I have a 55g that I may use as the sump but am worried about it being too tall so that I wont be able to work underneath comfortably. I am considering a 36" stand, so I may be able to have enough wiggle room though. Would be nice to save some money, and extra volume never hurt anyone.
 

mudbuttjones

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2014
1,375
58
66
Wisconsin
A 55g is an excellent size for the 120g. Extra volume is key. A lot of people also say the rule of thumb is 20% display tank volume. I think closer to 40-50% is better. That extra water has to go somewhere when the pump shuts off. I built my stand for the sump I wanted, don't hold back!

Some other things I learned messing with my herbie style overflow

-having the drains submerged 1-2" helps the pipes purge air, the back pressure helps consolidate the falling water. Also its quiet. Some people prefer to have the emergency drain above the water so it makes more noise as an "alarm" if the main siphon fails.

-avoid threaded fittings or any unnecessary plumbing, bends, tees, additional valves, etc.

-for the love of god use an intake strainer

-obviously use a gate valve

Im experimenting with using 1.5" stand pipes over my 1" bulkheads. Ive done some research on some saltwater forums and apparently the additional volume / weight of water helps push air out and restart the siphon easier. Also large diameter pipes are less prone to "vortexing" or sucking air.

I have a similar thread. Its longwinded, over detailed, and full of nonsense regarding my 90g/40 breeder herbie, diy stand and everything on a budget.


:edit:

Forgot to mention my mag9.5 @ 5ft head approx 600ish gph requires my 1" gate valve to be about 75% CLOSED for the siphon to stabilize


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mudbuttjones

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2014
1,375
58
66
Wisconsin
Sorry matseski, didn't realize that was you who indeed replied in my thread before, didn't mean to plug it on your thread.

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matseski

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 30, 2014
107
12
18
United States
Looking at the tank, now that I finally have it home, it does have equal size holes. I searched for many hours online and came up with so many different answers to that question...not sure why you can't get a technical drawing of a tank from the manufacturers with so many custom installers and DIYers...

mudbuttjones, no worries! I have been following your thread and will be very grateful to hear of anything you learn or changes you wish you had made as you finish up.

Anyways, here are some renderings of what I plan to build. The sump tank is what a 55g would be. It will sit approximately 8" off the front and I will have 6.5" between the top of the tank and the bottom of the 2x6 top horizontal (naturally, I gain another 5.5" inside) I have planned 2 additional front to back 2x6, that I will drill holes into for any horizontal plumbing and electrical runs so I can try to keep everything as secure and out of the way as possible. I guess I could go 2x4 and gain another 2", but I am not sure if it is worth the added risk of sagging. I already decided to lay the 2x4 joists on the ground on their sides to gain an extra 2". I have a single sheet of 3/4" plywood under both tanks to ensure everything is level.

Planning to buy lumber this weekend. Any additional suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Stand Overview.jpgStand transparent sides.png

Stand Overview.jpg

Stand transparent sides.png
 

welsher7

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Apr 20, 2006
682
26
61
Fort Wayne, IN
The added volume off the 55g sump would be nice, but i think it will be way too tall to work on. 6.5" openning will barely fit most pumps, and what if you need to change or tweek the plumbing you will never be able to do that in that limited space. If you have never had to work under cramped a stand you don't know what you are getting into. I used to have a 125 on a noraml 30" AGA pine stand and it made it impossible to work on. If it is hard to work on you won't do the required maintenance. I think you should really aim for at least 12" of space between the top of the sump and the cross support on the stand. I would wait for the petco $1 per gallon sale and buy a 40g breeder to use a sump, or if you can't wait pick up a 30g long or 40g long.
 

xraycer

Arapaima
MFK Member
Sep 5, 2013
5,383
2,571
203
Southern NH USA
The added volume off the 55g sump would be nice, but i think it will be way too tall to work on. 6.5" openning will barely fit most pumps, and what if you need to change or tweek the plumbing you will never be able to do that in that limited space. If you have never had to work under cramped a stand you don't know what you are getting into. I used to have a 125 on a noraml 30" AGA pine stand and it made it impossible to work on. If it is hard to work on you won't do the required maintenance. I think you should really aim for at least 12" of space between the top of the sump and the cross support on the stand. I would wait for the petco $1 per gallon sale and buy a 40g breeder to use a sump, or if you can't wait pick up a 30g long or 40g long.
Agree for the most part, but a 40 breeder will require widening the stand. It would be easier and nicer looking to increase the height and use the 55. Plus, its more enjoyable to look into a tank that's closer to eye level without having to hunch/bend over too much. I would think a minimum of 12" clearance is idea for pump maintenance.....it make life a lot more enjoyable when it comes time to clean the filter pads/socks
 

welsher7

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Apr 20, 2006
682
26
61
Fort Wayne, IN
With the tank having a 48"x24" footprint there would be no need to make the stand wider. The stand will easily fit a 36"x18" 40g sump.
 
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