Another "Cloudy Water" thread but...

Hi Folks - So it's been 3 weeks today since I started cycling my (~260 gallon tank). First some background:

* Kicked-off the process using Seachem Stabilize (following the directions for dosing for the 7 days) and API Water Conditioner as prescribed.
* Added a couple 2-3 inch parrots and one 3-inch gold nugget and one 3-inch blue phantom between day 3-8.
* Since I started I believe I've gone through to what has been a bacterial bloom between week 1 and 2 which was expected. That wasn't too bad and didn't mind the clouded water.
* I suspect that given the tank size, and relative light waste production, my ammonia and nitrite continues to be 0 (using API Master Test Kit). Even had it test at LFS.

Since the cycle started I've had 2-3 inch black polish rock for substrate and driftwood/plants. After a week I added another piece of driftwood/plants as I felt it need more to "balance" the look of the tank.

Since I was reading 0 for the nitrogen cycle, I decided to add a small pieces of (cooked) shrimp to 1) let the plecos nibble on and 2) potentially create more ammonia.

My problem now is for the last 4 days, my water has been extremely cloudy to a point where I can barely see the fish. One of the parrot has formed "black spots" (not sure if there's a direct correlation with the cloudy water). I'm committed to going through this cycle process, but I'm really at a point now where I feel I at least need to a do a 25%-50% PWC. We're talking some really cloudy water here with traces of brown/green algae.

My question is can I/should I perform a PWC without negatively impact the cycling process? I figured it won't be worse given that I'm reading 0 still. Again, I was expecting the bacterial blooms and all during the cycling, but it's at a point where I don't want to sit idle.

I would appreciate and advice as to what my next steps should be here...

Thanks guys...so I've not done any water changes in the last 3 weeks. Are you suggesting that I not, or, go for the 25-50 % change? Either way, I'll be sure to leave the sump filtration alone, just thinking about replacing some water. Anyone else?

Thanks Pops. Yes, I have fish in hence more of a concern with the cloudiness and black spots on one of the parrots, etc. I just wanted to also better understand if PWC will slow down the cycling even more given the fact I was reading 0 across the board. Given the situation w/fish, I suppose that is more important and won't put me any worse off than I am.

I just realized that I may have not been clear after all that information. I wanted to clarify that my tank has not shown any signs of ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. I don't think it changes any of the responses but didn't want folks thinking I had spikes and back down to 0. I actually want the spikes to get started. Thanks for reading...

Drstrangelove said:

It's somewhat hard to tell, but your data suggests your tank hasn't cycled at all. No nitrites and no nitrates is really the indicator. No ammonia however makes less sense so I don't really know how that's being tested.

1) Did you feed the fish after you placed them in the tank at least a little bit? Fish don't make ammonia without being fed since ammonia is a waste product from food that fish eat. No food means no ammonia and no ammonia means dead bacteria. The lack of readings for anything indicates no food or ammonia has been added to the tank, although it could also mean that the amounts placed in the tank were so tiny that they can't register on the tests.

2) Bacterial bloom is a result of excess nutrients (food) in the water. The shrimp tails were probably in the tank rotting if they weren't ingested immediately. Dead fish are the same as is uneaten food, so none of that should be in a tank. The bacteria in the bloom are not the same bacteria as the ones you want to handle ammonia and nitrites. Those will compete with the BB you want, so blooms are not a way often suggested to cycle a tank.

If you have zero's across the board on ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, that seems like a sure indicator that you have an uncycled tank. Remove uneaten food in the tank and don't worry about doing a water change as that won't solve a true bacterial bloom. Don't feed until the bloom is gone and until you have gotten exact water readings. IMO, the main concern is lack of a confirmed cycled tank.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your observations and taking the time to share your opinions. I am certain, that my tank has not started the nitrogen cycle - at least not enough where the API Master kit is detecting (as I've indicated that I'm using the test above).

I did not explicitly call out but I have fed my few fishes since I've had them, but I have been feeding twice a day actually up until the last 3 days. I specific called out the piece of shrimp (not shrimp tail) as I do suspect that leaving that in the tank is what triggered the bacterial bloom, or what I/we think it is. Although I've provided a fair amount of food relative to my number of fish, I think it's likely low when considering the size of my tank - and why I called out above.

I originally was looking for inputs on WPC to help with my water clarity against the bacterial bloom, while not disrupting the nitrogen cycle (or lack there of in my case). Based on your response doesn't look like water change won't help my situation. Looks like rodger hit the nail...sit back and watch the blooms and be patient...

Thanks all.