Plywood 4x2x1.5 started - pics - step by step

Griller

Gambusia
MFK Member
Designed primarily to test my ability to make these and use some new methods shown on the internet for sealing these tanks. I'll likely give this to my girlfriend for housing oscars.

Planning to seal with tank with liquid rubber with a mating of epoxy and liquid rubber on the front panel to seal the glass to, as per this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kli-bNye6_s
I haven't done anything like this before so input is welcome.

I couldn't find the epoxy at bunnings, anyone know a good source?

4' build 1.jpg
Tools I had to purchase (all from bunnings):
Jigsaw $39
Reverse jigsaw blades $15
Square combination trojan $16
Clamp trojan (corner clamp) $9
Countersink bit $8
I already has the power drill and bits for it.
TOOLS TOTAL SO FAR: $87

4' build 2.jpg
Laying base in front of girlfriend's current tank to give idea of size.
Materials I've purchased so far:
Plywood structural CD 2400mmx1200mmx17mm cut to size $65
250ml exterior adhesive aquadhere selleys $11
100 galvanized countersunk timber screws 10 - 8x65mm $14
MATERIALS TOTAL SO FAR: $90

4' tank, 1 sheet cropped.jpg
I had the plywood cut at Bunnings as per top diagram. The guy was very pleased to get such detailed instructions and pointed out that the blade would take 3mm to 5mm off for every cut. We decided to slightly reduce the height of the tank to account for this difference.

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Started by clamping the base and face together with tank on it's side. I'll drill and screw the faces together, make sure they're all square, then pull apart to glue and screw back together again.

4' build 3.jpg
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The face has a slight bend in it so I decided to screw the face onto the base at the end, then middle, then side to get most of the curve out of the face.

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Marked 8mm and 8mm in
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Drilled and countersunk. Was worried I wouldn't get the drilling straight by hand but it wasn't a problem.

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I found through making mistakes that the countersunk hole needed to be bigger than the head of the screw. when the head fits neatly inside the countersunk hole then it goes in nicely. Screw doesn't seem to embed itself in the ply well, unlike MDF.

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Flipped the tank into normal position and clamped the left panel onto the front panel then screwed at the top corner - MISTAKE - didn't quite line up when I screwed the bottom. Next time I'll start at the base, not sure how to get it tight yet.

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Tank flipped upside down to screw side panel to base. Will try to get more done today before I have to go to work...

4' tank, 1 sheet cropped.jpg

4' build 1.jpg

4' build 2.jpg

4' build 3.jpg

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Griller

Gambusia
MFK Member
DSC_0023[1].jpg
First side panel screwed on, now adding the second. Screwed these on starting at the base and upside down seems to get them fairly tight. If I wasn't doing it by myself I'd have a second person help push the panels tight into the corner while I drill and screw them. Doesn;t seem to be any way to clamp them in place to I just tried to balance them in place.

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A couple of splitters. Need to drill deeper, not countersink too deep and ensure everything is lined up properly. It's hard to do by eye. Maybe I should drill a block of wood and use it as a guide for the rest of my drilling. I'll also re-drill each hole after countersinking them to ensure the hole is deep enough.

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A couple of problems but box is successfully screwed together - next to unscrew and glue it all up.

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Griller

Gambusia
MFK Member
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Unscrewed the front panel first

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Applied the glue and screwed back onto base. Got a lot of drips.

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Drips wiped up easily with damp sponge

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Glued and screwed the side panels back in, fixing a few dodgy holes while I was at it.

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Flipped the box over and pre-drilled the entire base by eye.

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Countersunk the base then screwed. MISTAKE - lots of splitters! I need a guide and obviously can't drill straight enough by eye.

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Made a guide with a piece of scrap and screwed it together in the clamp. Used it to make sure the drill but was straight and was amazed how far out I was just using eye. Drilled and screwed the front of the tank with no splitters at all - thank god!

I've run out of screws to need to make another trip to bunnings. Also my new jigsaw's roller fell out when cutting the scrap so will take that back too.

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Griller

Gambusia
MFK Member
While doing research on epoxy I read that aquarium silicone adheres directly to wood. I may be able to do a liquid rubber gasket with silicon and run the bead over onto bare wood to secure the glass to the tank. Will get some wood and silicone to see if it's possible.
 

noside

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 6, 2014
164
1
16
NJ
Can't wait to see the final results!

From prior experience if you have them available decking screws with a torx head on them are a lot easier to work with. They are rustproof have a fatter thread and countersunk themselves on my ply.
 

Griller

Gambusia
MFK Member
Can't wait to see the final results!

From prior experience if you have them available decking screws with a torx head on them are a lot easier to work with. They are rustproof have a fatter thread and countersunk themselves on my ply.
Thanks mate. Did you post your build?
I'll look at using decking screws for hood since everything else is done.
Also do you know a good source of two part epoxy?
 

Griller

Gambusia
MFK Member
Update - spoke to liquid rubber Melbourne. They have no product in stock and their tech is away. He'll call me when he gets back in mid Jan to explain best method to seal glass into tank. Apparently no epoxy is needed and it can be done with liquid rubber and a polyurethane caulk.
 

Griller

Gambusia
MFK Member
More tools purchased (all from bunnings):
Jigsaw replaced due to missing roller Free
Magnetic drive guide set $10
Caulking tool & gun $8
Cutting guide clamp $25
TOOLS TOTAL SO FAR: $130

More materials purchased:
100 galvanized countersunk timber screws 50mm $12
1 tube selleys silicon $11
MATERIALS TOTAL SO FAR: $113
 
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