Installed a drip, just need final advice.

mscamp02

mscamp02

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Sep 13, 2011
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Mt. Sterling KY
Alright I finally got around to setting up a drip system on my 300 gallon, I have a 3 stage filter coming off at around 75 gallons right now, I'm planning to drop it down once I get a good water change over the next few days but what should I drop it down to? I was thinking maybe 30 gpd but I'm not sure, I can technically leave it at the full 75 gpd if that high of a daily change wont hurt anything.

Has anyone experienced issues with water temps due to a continuous cold water drip? I have two 150 watt heaters and usually maintain around 78 79 give or take a degree.

Also, what do you guys do for regular water changes after installing a drip. Right now all I plan on doing is vacuuming out the sand as needed.

Thanks in advance.
 
jim barry

jim barry

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Jun 21, 2006
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I drip on a timer twice a day to reduce how much the temp drops and it allows the water to heat again before the next change. Once in the morning and once late afternoon the timer kicks in and waetr change starts,. Each time the water comes on for about 3 hours at a time. I have the tap open half way that comes off the last canister/pod. No idea how much i change but it works for me. In the summer when weather is better i turn up the flow full bore as the temp does not drop so much but i still leave it at twice daily changes.
I do no other water changes besides this and this has worked for 3 years now. I have around 600 UK gallon system. All params remain constant buy i live in a hard water area so do not have to worry about PH swings as much as soft water users.
Hope that helps.
 
HarleyK

HarleyK

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I found water timers to only work above a certain flow rate, and mine didn't work at 10 gph.

I have a constant drip. No problem with temperature.


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mscamp02

mscamp02

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Sep 13, 2011
604
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Mt. Sterling KY
Alright I ran into a problem last night, my exit line froze so I ended up ok overflowing out of the top of the tank

My overflow system uses two pvc overflows to 1/4 in hose then to a tee to put it to one hose. The hose then exist through a hole in the floor in the water heater closet, then it runs about 20 ft till it makes it outside to the garden area.

Stupidly I just the left line hanging on top of the ground outside so of course it froze. So with all that being said, how do you guys have it exit out of your homes so it doesn't freeze?
 
D

deeda

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I'm fairly certain that people that drain water to the outside in cold weather climates increase the diameter of the piping to at least 1-1/2" PVC pipe to avoid the freezing problem.

Does the hole in the floor from the water heater closet end up in the crawl space? If so, what are the foundation walls of your home made of?
 
mscamp02

mscamp02

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Sep 13, 2011
604
163
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Mt. Sterling KY
deeda said:
I'm fairly certain that people that drain water to the outside in cold weather climates increase the diameter of the piping to at least 1-1/2" PVC pipe to avoid the freezing problem.

Does the hole in the floor from the water heater closet end up in the crawl space? If so, what are the foundation walls of your home made of?
Click to expand...
Yea this was just a huge oversight on my part, I have a concrete foundation with brick on the exterior of the foundation, crawl space is about 3 feet. I didn't bother to check but I'm fairly certain it didn't freeze underneath the house, I plan on checking tomorrow on the underside.
 
D

deeda

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I am assuming that you have at least one screened vent in the concrete foundation for your crawlspace, if so, you can probably install some PVC pipe, hung from the ceiling joists, and properly sloped and then exit out through the vent.

A more permanent installation would be to drill a hole through the foundation wall and install the PVC through the wall to drain to the area in your yard that you want. I would still install all PVC in the crawl space area and connect it to the hole you drilled in the floor.

We did a similar through the concrete block wall drain using 2" PVC pipe to allow the water softener effluent to drain out to field tile and we occasionally also drain the aquariums through this same drain during the winter months when it's too cold to open the door. We used a concrete hole saw and a hammer drill to drill the hole. I'm not sure if that will work for brick though.
 
mscamp02

mscamp02

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Sep 13, 2011
604
163
61
Mt. Sterling KY
deeda said:
I am assuming that you have at least one screened vent in the concrete foundation for your crawlspace, if so, you can probably install some PVC pipe, hung from the ceiling joists, and properly sloped and then exit out through the vent.

A more permanent installation would be to drill a hole through the foundation wall and install the PVC through the wall to drain to the area in your yard that you want. I would still install all PVC in the crawl space area and connect it to the hole you drilled in the floor.

We did a similar through the concrete block wall drain using 2" PVC pipe to allow the water softener effluent to drain out to field tile and we occasionally also drain the aquariums through this same drain during the winter months when it's too cold to open the door. We used a concrete hole saw and a hammer drill to drill the hole. I'm not sure if that will work for brick though.
Click to expand...
Yea there are a few and that is what I used for the 1/4 hose. It actually exits pretty close to the ground right by my garden area so it is a really good location and I will most likely just cut out the screen and use that instead of cutting into the foundation and brick
 
D

deeda

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Sounds good! Just make sure you support the piping so the screening doesn't tear and allow wildlife to access your crawlspace!!!! There's nothing worse than skunks living under your house.
 
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