Looking for some advice. I'm going to sell my 20" rtc and 20" Tsn locally( Rockford Illinois ). Was looking for advice on what to ask. Time to get some monsters that actually are active.
Rtc and Tsn values
- Thread starter Ccbuilder72
- Start date
I'm sorry to say but in my area you can't even give them away
If you lived in the UK I could tell you at least 3 LFS that have been trying to give away 8 in total for over a year now
They are 2 types of fish people are scared of owning due to the well known fact they get massive
What also doesn't help matters is yours are all ready sub adults and most people want to buy them small and enjoy them as long as possible
Good lucky I hope you find them a good home
Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
You'll be lucky if you can give them away.
Unless of course you are advertising them for free and someone takes them to be made into dinner.
Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
Unless of course you are advertising them for free and someone takes them to be made into dinner.
Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
I have 2xrtc, 1xtsn, a pacu, and a black shark. They were in a 135 and very active. I moved them to a 900 gallon in October and they all sit together in one corner until the lights go out, then they are active. Maybe I should cram them back into the 135, lol!
Or maybe they don't like your new lights as you can't have the same lights on a 900gal as you had on a 135
Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
You are right. When relaxed, large RTC and TSN are quite active. Not IDS-active but not inactive at all. Something is stressing them out in your new tank. Your responsibility I'd think is to find out what. We learn from experience and from solving problems.
Perhaps T1 is right and it is as simple as too much light. Or the water is not adequate. Or aeration insufficient. Etc.
How big is the black shark and does it try to skin any of its tank mates? They are masters at that but the result is very obvious, so I don't think you'd miss it.
Photos of the setup could help us to help you. So would water parameters and other essentials.
You may be able to find someone to buy them from you if you (1) are very lucky and (2) do not particular care where they go to. Otherwise, it will be hard to give them away.
Perhaps T1 is right and it is as simple as too much light. Or the water is not adequate. Or aeration insufficient. Etc.
How big is the black shark and does it try to skin any of its tank mates? They are masters at that but the result is very obvious, so I don't think you'd miss it.
Photos of the setup could help us to help you. So would water parameters and other essentials.
You may be able to find someone to buy them from you if you (1) are very lucky and (2) do not particular care where they go to. Otherwise, it will be hard to give them away.
The black shark is about 10", he doesn't bother anybody. PH8.2, NO2 0, NO3 0, NH3NH4 0. My filtration is a 40gal. Brute can with half lava rock, half pot scrubbies, and filter cloth on top. This exits into a 100gal trough that houses my heaters and pothos plants. I have three 1.5" drains that go back to the pond(2 on at a time). I switch them periodically to change the flow in the pond. One is connected to an eight foot spray bar. My lighting is 3 t12 fixtures 6' above the pond. I have tried anything from a single 40w bulb to what I have now. I have pics, but cannot seem to figure out how to post.
Just read on another forum to check levels in different spots in pond. Did that with same results and two different test kits. Same results.
Sounds like you are quite experienced and your setup seems good (more info is needed though to be sure).
It is often not easy to figure out what stresses your fish. I'd still recommend earnestly trying.
-- How long ago were they rehomed into the pond?
-- What's the flow rate of filtration?
-- Do the fish feed as well as they should? As well as they did in 135?
-- If you turn off the pond light and just leave a dim room light or a distant light on, do they stop huddling and start moving around?
In general: Unless they are sick, I'd think of a possibility of some kind of constant, low level stress - in no particular order - toxins NH3, NO2, NO3 (including proper test kit and its application and freshness), light, bullying or predation attempts, low oxygen (too little agitation, too warm water, too much algae and plants rob water of oxygen badly at night time), contaminants like heavy metals, lubricants, detergents, cosmetics/perfumes, oils, grease, cleaners, sprays, wrong water hardness, salinity, pH, temp, large swings in water parameters, left-over tap water disinfectants, etc.
It is often not easy to figure out what stresses your fish. I'd still recommend earnestly trying.
-- How long ago were they rehomed into the pond?
-- What's the flow rate of filtration?
-- Do the fish feed as well as they should? As well as they did in 135?
-- If you turn off the pond light and just leave a dim room light or a distant light on, do they stop huddling and start moving around?
In general: Unless they are sick, I'd think of a possibility of some kind of constant, low level stress - in no particular order - toxins NH3, NO2, NO3 (including proper test kit and its application and freshness), light, bullying or predation attempts, low oxygen (too little agitation, too warm water, too much algae and plants rob water of oxygen badly at night time), contaminants like heavy metals, lubricants, detergents, cosmetics/perfumes, oils, grease, cleaners, sprays, wrong water hardness, salinity, pH, temp, large swings in water parameters, left-over tap water disinfectants, etc.
