diy stand on concrete floor with hump

monkeybike

Aimara
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Mar 13, 2015
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I've got my 180 on order and I am ready to frame a stand. It's going to be set through a wall in my basement. I am cutting out an existing dividing wall and framing the stand behind. The floor isn't exactly level, there appears to be a hump right where the middle of the stand will rest. I can tell the floor has moved in the 50 years since its been poured because there is a crack running through that spot. Should I grind that spot down a bit and shim the rest of the stand level? Or should I pour some self leveling compound in a form in that spot? I'm concerned that over a long period of time that spot could still shift causing uneven pressure on the tank. Am I really over thinking this?
 

davenmandy

Peacock Bass
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Feb 1, 2012
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I wrestle with this concept myself. My research has told me that a floor leveler can be used, but how they work and if they work on concrete i have no idea because I never went that route. I always used composite shims making sure they are placed directly under any structural supports of the stand, your "beams" going up and down. Always wondered how all the weight sitting on ships is affecting things. If I were in the position you are, get a bag of powder concrete or tile Thinset or whatever the compound is called (your hardware store will help you with what's best, sorry don't have a name for you just a concept) mix it in a bucket, apply where you need it to with a trowel, and when it dries you may need to do it once or twice more. I wish I had that luxury, i feel like that would be a really easy job, once floors are down it becomes harder. Good luck, leveling is important in the long run.

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mudbuttjones

Fire Eel
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Jul 29, 2014
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I'm no mason but from what I've read self leveling concrete is pretty difficult to work with.

I'd probably go with a stand with legs versus something with solid runners on the bottom and shim it appropriately.

I'd doubt the concrete would shift. I mean it's always a possibility in any basement especially if your in the north, but I wouldn't worry much about it

I shimmed a stand on an uneven cement basement floor. I used a steel rack with 4 legs and shimmed the feet with cut up pieces of 1/16" of flat metal stock. I was going to use wood shims, but I'm glad I used something more robust, and impervious to water

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monkeybike

Aimara
MFK Member
Mar 13, 2015
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I'm thinking about pouring a pad on top of the floor. Maybe some rebar and mesh will keep the crack from transferring into the pad. I just did a concrete bar top so I have a bunch of forms and tools leftover.
 

jimmie d wad

Candiru
MFK Member
Jan 20, 2011
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what i have done is lay cinder blocks down, build your frame, brace though out, 3\4 plywood on top. after you have this. you can level it using whatever, i used 2x4. then you can hold a board on one side and trace where the two boards meet. this is your cut line. sorry all i have is a video. but if you look at the stands of my tanks. you should be able to see. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6-EGB--HKc
 

monkeybike

Aimara
MFK Member
Mar 13, 2015
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I get what your saying, that board between the cinderblock and the frame is what you tapered.
 

appak

Candiru
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Apr 2, 2014
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I'm thinking about pouring a pad on top of the floor. Maybe some rebar and mesh will keep the crack from transferring into the pad. I just did a concrete bar top so I have a bunch of forms and tools leftover.
Likely this is easier and much cheaper than self levelling. Giant pain in the behind to work with, especially for such a small job.
 

monkeybike

Aimara
MFK Member
Mar 13, 2015
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I think a concrete pad is probably how I will go. I was initially concerned about building the pad too high that my trickle filter wouldn't fit under the tank, but I think I will just plumb it next too it.
 
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