Question about best, and still safe overflow piping for my 240 Tank. Please Help me

Stang725

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 11, 2015
43
0
6
Austin, Tx
So I have a 240 I am in the process of setting up. I have a 70G sump and 2 holes per overflow (x2 boxes in my tank)

Per corner Overflow, I have (1) 1" and (1) 3/4" drilled holes (was already drilled and not brave enough to enlarge them)

I went ahead and connected the two overflows at the bottom by putting in a 1" bulkhead near the bottom of each and connected them so water levels should be somewhat balanced.

I will be returning water over the side of the tank via a spray bar.

I want max flow without running the risk of flooding my place (well as safe as possible but still moving a lot of water).

I was thinking:

Going straight-shot into sump for right-overflow via 1" using a submerged full siphon and using the 3/4" in that box as the highest drain in the system for a last line of defense (I may even wire up a contact for shutting off the pump if water goes down it.

In the other box, I would also use the 1" as a submerged drain with a nice spears gate to tune the system with the 3/4" in that box acting as my skimming pipe, in what you would find in a herbie set up.

So I would have two 1" drains under full Herbie style siphon (one of which would be tuned with a gate valve to maintain the water level in the overflow using that one 3/4" drain... with the other 3/4 drain being my true emergency drain. I realize that 3/4" is doing little to nothing if I get a clog in my fully open 1" line, but I would think the two 3/4" could support the half-way closed (via gate valve) 1" if it were to clog and I would assume this would be the more likely event to ever take place.

I have about a 24" drop and will be using 2" pipe in the overflows for all drains down to the bulkheads and expending back out to 1.5" going into the sump. drains.jpg

Any thoughts on how I could better pull this off and it still be near silent. I'm basing it off of the Herbie design, but with an extra emergency drain that should never get wet (unless xxxx is about to go South).

Obviously, I will prob meet closer in the middle for drains going into sump, but bare with me on my MSPAINT at work image... I do want the fully open 1" to be doing most of the heavy flow, so I will try to keep that one pretty close to straight down.

I also expect to get some pretty good flow through that balancing pipe, going towards the fully open 1" so I could prob put some bio balls in the sumps as well since I will get constant water movement in the overflows, good idea?

I have a beast of a pump, a Laguna Max-Flow 4280.. and will probably have to put a valve on the output to reduce it some... just trying to get some good water movement... and not flood my house :)

I'm new to wet-drys in terms of DIY, so please help me if you have any ideas. As I said, max-flow and silence are what I am looking for, as long as I can have some confidence that I won't flood my place. Does the relay/contact sound like a good idea, as it would be easy to wire for me and I could even prob wire up a rasberry pi to monitor for that event to send out an email alert.

drains.jpg
 

DN328

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Aug 14, 2014
2,416
1,097
164
Fish Tank
Some of your descriptions is hard to follow, but I provide some food for thought based on what I could interpret.

* I'm not following the 2" pipe in the overflows, can you clarify that?
* It sounds like you'll have 2 pipes in each overflow. Using a Herbie AND Beananimal approach. Each overflow will have 1 fully siphoned standpipe. 1 overflow will have a trickle standpipe and the other one will be truly dry stand-by, correct? Personally, I've not had hands on experience with a dual overflow, but what you're planning seems logical and should be relatively quiet. Good idea with the gate valves for tuning. Be sure to use true unions in case you need to break apart any hard plumbing/pvc.
* Bio-balls for biological filter in the sump should be fine

rasberry pi to monitor for that event to send out an email alert: Sounds interesting, can you elaborate more on this?
 

mudbuttjones

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2014
1,375
58
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Wisconsin
Id join the two 3/4" bulkheads together under the tank with a tee and a single gate valve on some enlarged plumbing like 1.5" and run the other two pipes as low flow durso style drains up higher than the siphon in each box with it's own plumbing. You'll be able to get around 1000gph through each 3/4" bulkhead under full siphon. I've never ran dual overflows but I can tell you that tuning one overflow with a gatevalve is fairly difficult, not impossible but kind of a pain.

I have a beananimal set up and my 3/4" low flow drain will flow 700+ gph on its own with the siphon shutoff and it still won't reach the 3rd dry pipe. But this is in a single overflow.View attachment 1071715 right now i run a mag 9.5 but during testing i doubled up on pumps and through this setup I was running about 1700gph it without getting the third pipe wet. It's a standard reef ready with 2x 1" bulkheads on the bottom and I drilled a 3rd hole on the back pane for 3/4"


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Stang725

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 11, 2015
43
0
6
Austin, Tx
* I'm not following the 2" pipe in the overflows, can you clarify that?
So I was thinking that since I am using overflow strainers on my submerged 1" drains... I would up-size the pipe to 2" before it hits the actual 1" bulkheads so I could use 2" strainers. In my eyes, my most limiting flow rate will be at the bulkhead and I simply want to maximize the flow rate at that point in the system. So going 2" before the bulkhead and 1.5" after the bulkhead (to the sump) should help reduce any loss of flow that is not coming from the momentary restriction at the bulkhead. I could breakout some old physics textbooks to calculate out what sizes I should go with to be sure, but I think my current size choices will yield better overall flow than going 1" throughout the whole system (3/4 in case of the smaller drains)
 

Stang725

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 11, 2015
43
0
6
Austin, Tx
rasberry pi to monitor for that event to send out an email alert: Sounds interesting, can you elaborate more on this?
There are several Pi-compatible i/o boards that can monitor for a circuit being closed (leak sensor), I would write up or borrow some code that would generate an email to be sent off when that event takes place. I was thinking a Pi because I am also thinking about setting up some webcams (reason I would prob not use just an Arduino).

I was also thinking about just picking up a Apex controller... but me being a DIY'r... I think I could come up with something with more functionality, for less money...

I will be starting a build thread soon, just waiting on my custom 3D background to come in from universal rocks. Should be here tomorrow :)
 

mudbuttjones

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jul 29, 2014
1,375
58
66
Wisconsin
Putting an Oversized stand pipe over the bulkheads works good. The Extra volume/weight of water in the pipe puts more pressure and velocity on the draining water and in theory it should flow better. I run a 1.5" emergency pipe over my 1" bulkhead

strainers are a limiting factor for flow aswell.

I have my siphon dialed in with a 1" strainer on the pipe. If I pop the strainer off the water level instantly drops. They impede some flow so running an oversized standpipe strainer would be beneficial.

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DN328

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Aug 14, 2014
2,416
1,097
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Fish Tank
Thanks for sharing on the monitoring, Stang. Keep us posted as it sounds like a cool project.

I just posted a question related to possibly increasing stand-pipe...lol. Sounds like Mudbutt has had good results. I'd like to hear more on the improvements as I'd like to try it to (or you can respond to my other thread). But I think it's relevant to what Stang is proposing to do as well.

Thanks.
 
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