Diy acrylic tank.

milkman407

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Jul 15, 2006
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I've built 4 acrylic tanks so far, all over 100+ gallons using this method. and my oldest tank has been up for 1 year without problems.

Step One:Tools

You will need;
1.) something to smooth the cuts of your acrylic ( a razorblade, back of a knife, or a carving tool. Make sure that when doing this you keep it nice and flat, do not chip the edges.
2.) Towel, For when you try and fill it up, You dont want any water on the floor;)
3.) acrylic cement
4.) syringe
5.) a small needle that they use to give you a shot ( incase your syringe gets blocked )
6.) a torch ( if you decide to polish the acrylic )
7.) a router
8.) a drill to start your cuts on the lids
9.) hole saw ( to cut your holes for the bulkheads )
10.) a hand saw to cut your lids with.
11.) acrylic cement # 16
12.) spray bottle


Step two : work area
1.) you will need a decent sized work area if you plan on doing a big tank, If you can do this outside or in a garage, that would be perfect. You dont want your house smelling like a nail salon, because thats what acrylic smells like when being cut.

Step three : Finding the cheapest acrylic.
1.) Finding a cheap acrylic dealer near you will save you alota money, I called 12 places before I found a local dealer who sells acrylic. And trust me you save alota money. Look in your yellow pages, or check online for local dealers. I would suggest ordering some extra acrylic just to practice.
Also dont forget blue and black acrylic sheets are 1/2 the price of clear acrylic.

Step four : start building.
1.)Now that you have everything you need to start building, I would first take a step back and think. You dont wana mess up or scratch the acrylic so take a big breath, hold it, let it out, than lets get to work.

2.) first off, Take the base of your acrylic sheet, and set it down on a even level area. tape it to the ground so it does not move when your working with it.

3.) Take your tool you decided to use and smooth the joints of the acrylic so that when you apply the acrylic cement, there will be no air bubbles ( they can cause your acrylic to seperate once filled with water, and or leaks ).
A companys cut most of the time will not bond well.

4.) Next, take your front ( or back ) peice of acrylic and set it ontop of the bottom peice. Tape it or clamp it down if possible.

5.) Take your syringe bottle and fill it with the acrylic cement, be careful with this stuff it dries amazingly fast.


6.) I would suggest having some one aim a flashlight, or be in a very bright area, so you can see the acrylic cement being sucked into the joint. I would suggest starting with 1/4 the length of the acrylic, just incase you get an air bubble you can go back and fix it. Make sure the clamps are on tight enough, so that no air bubbles appear. this dries quick so be careful

7.) now that you have your front ( or back ) of the aquarium on. Let it sit for 4 hours before Moving it. even though it dries amazingly fast, it still isn't that strong yet.

8.) while your waiting, why not put another side of your aquarium on ( left or right ). Do the same thing you did with the front.

9.) same step as 7 and 8, untill you have all 5 peice of acrylic on. ( bottom,all sides,)

10.) now that all you have left to do is the top of the aquarium, I would suggest leaving the papper on while cutting so that you dont get any scuffs or heat marks from cutting into the acrylic.

11.) cut the tops of the aquarium to fit your needs, ( or you can have your strips pre ordered so that you dont have to cut the tops ( cuz it's very time consuming ).
Make sure to keep spraying the blade with water so that the acrylic dosn't melt while your cutting it.


12.)Now that your top is cut, its time to place it on. I would flip it upside down, and if possible stick your arm and hand in there to apply the acrylic cement ( with the syringe ). If this isn't possible you can just apply the acrylic cement # 16 on and lay the top over it, if you decide to do it that way, than make sure your clamps are on very tight, and have something to clean off the extra goop.



13.) and now that you have an aquarium, you can start drilling it. I would only drill it if you plan on using a wet / dry filter.



14.) First figure out what size bulkhead you will be putting on the tank, Than from there get the correct size hole saw and start drilling, Dont drill all the way through on one side. Drill about halfway through the acrylic, than go on the inside of the tank and finish it off. This way you dont get any pressure cracks in your acrylic.


15.) Test it with water for 2-3 days to see if there are any leaks ( dont be supprised if there is, its your first time and easy to fix ).


16.) if there is a leak You can either do 2 things. You can order some type of acrylic cement # 6-16. Or you can do it the wrong way and get aquarium silicone from a local hard ware store. Note : silicone does not stick to acrylic so you will have to replace it around every 1-2 years.

Now add fish


I'm not done with this thread, but feel free to post.

I will go back and edit with pics, spelling etc... once I have more time. If a mod decides to edit this, than be my guest, it would help me out alot. But If not I plan on finishing it up by friday.

And photo bucket is being slow so pics will be up very shortly.
 

Tongue33

Feeder Fish
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Feb 11, 2006
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www.davescichlids.com

prophets

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 13, 2006
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Excellent post. You did a great job of describing the process of building a acrylic tank. :clap :thumbsup:

Everything you typed was well written...words spelled correctly...unlike many posts here...:irked: :ROFL:

Will be awaiting to see your pics of the last 4 tanks you made. :grinno:
 

Tongue33

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Feb 11, 2006
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www.davescichlids.com
prophets;1034812; said:
Excellent post. You did a great job of describing the process of building a acrylic tank. :clap :thumbsup:

Everything you typed was well written...

Will be awaiting to see your pics of the last 4 tanks you made. :grinno:

Agreed :)
 

milkman407

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Jul 15, 2006
5,154
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in a house
I'm a lil pissed. I just uploaded around 34 pics onto this in under 30 mins. I go to upload the last pic. and an error comes up that says you can only edit after 30 mins. so i hit cancel and it deleted everything...
I'll upload all the pics at once and have a mod edit it later on.

Its only been 7 months? you sure? damn my arowanas went from 4" to 24" in 7 months !


Here are more pics That I need to add to it.


























 

milkman407

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Jul 15, 2006
5,154
192
120
in a house
I'm pming a mod about this, to see if he can help me set it up. I dont think this would become a sticky though. Not that much information, i could have put alot more.
But if it happens to become a sticky cool.
thanks for all the comments. :)
 

maseyferguson05

Candiru
MFK Member
Jan 21, 2007
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Somethings i think you left out.

Why acrylic?
What size acrylic?
What # cement and what all the different acrylic cements do
Explain how to smooth out the sides a little more.
What is the router for?
What is the best type of saw to use, and what blade.(80 tooth carbide cutting tip?)
What do you mean by " see the acrylic cement being sucked into the joint"

Things of that nature

So how much did it cost for the acrylic and cement?
 

milkman407

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Jul 15, 2006
5,154
192
120
in a house
maseyferguson05;1034911; said:
Somethings i think you left out.

Why acrylic? acrylic is much lighter than glass and imo easier to work with
What size acrylic? the first tank that is on the stand is 6x4x2 ( 3/4" thick )
What # cement and what all the different acrylic cements do ( acrylic cement #16 i use like silicone put a beed on the joints of the tank when its together and even it out with my finger. the acrylic cement with the syringe bonds the acrylic together.
Explain how to smooth out the sides a little more. ( you can use sand papper to smooth out the joints ( or sides ) of the tank. You basicly just run the selected tool over the side untill its smooth, and dosn't have the factory cut look.
What is the router for? ( the router is used to smooth the ouside edges of the tank, and gives it the round look rather than the square look.
What is the best type of saw to use, and what blade.(80 tooth carbide cutting tip?) ( a cutting tip is to have a lazer or something to keep your hand and the saw straight. Not sure which is the best type of saw or blade, I'll ask my dad tomorrow ( he just bought this one so i have no clue what type it is).
What do you mean by " see the acrylic cement being sucked into the joint" ( the acrylic cement, will run under the sheets of acrylic and dry, therefor bonding the 2 peices together.

Things of that nature

So how much did it cost for the acrylic and cement?
Not exactly sure on a price we built this one awhile back. I think the tank stand + everything was around 600$. But we could have made it alot cheaper.
 
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