positioning of floor supports for larger tanks

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

wolf13

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Apr 8, 2008
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I am back to house shopping and was looking at a house today that I might be making an offer on. Now, I know this is generalization and i will need it to be checked out by a pro before actually putting a tank on it (standard inspector be able to do that, or do I need an actual contractor or engineer?), but what am I REALLY looking at? the basement is rough so I'd be looking at putting the tank on the main floor (sides, I like to watch my fish).

call the tank range 220+ gal, MAYBE as high as a 350, but at this point that's more wishing then probable. probably acrylic since I have to move the damn thing and man power will be an issue. either ways, I know we are talking a ton plus. foot print will be L x W rather then H.

I had a tape measure and still didn't think to measure the joists, but they are at least 2x10's and more likely 2x12's. this is a 100 year old building (actually was an old bank, and No, the vault room is not a very good option)) and is in excellent structural shape. the joists are rough sawn oak, NOT pine (this is the stuff you pull out of 200 yr old barns and still be good). the room I would want to put it in is 14x18 and there are structural supports (actually, the center of the house is insanely reinforced, but no place to put it there) at the both ends with the joists spanning the 18 feet.

Now, one of the places to position it is running parrall with the joists with one end at the outside wall, so would definatly need supports added. how many are we talking? one per foot? one per 2 ft of tank length? one at querter or third marks?

the other postion is the outiside wall perpendicular to the joists so is more favoriable. on a 2 ft wide tank, would I need extra support? on a 3 ft wide tank, would a beam and a jack at each end be enough?

support jacks are pretty cheap, but i'd like a real idea on what i'd actually need gooing in.

other question is the floor is hard wood, with rubber padding down is it going to destroy the flooring just from the weight?
 
span as many joists as you can.. you can always add more even if they dont span the whole length of the basement (i want to say the term is "blocking" but i could be wrong") then just add a support beam or 2... jackstands/posts at all contact points and you are good...


i just did this today with my house... only there was only a small hole to get under the house and then less than 2 feet of work space... and when i say "I" what i mean is a fellow mfker who is smaller than me because my tubbybutt did not fit through the hole to get under the house..
 
My home is also in the 100 year old range. My tanks are set up against outside walls running perpendicular to the joists. For me this seemed the best way to support the weight. The tanks sit only a few inches from where the joists are supported by the concrete foundation.

For added piece of mind you could add some 2x4 or 4x4 between each joist and the basement floor (if it's a concrete floor). This is what I did .
 
might want to give this article a read:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/aquarium_weight.php

it explains a lot and dispells a lot of common myths out there..

the best way if you are considering going that large is to consult a structural engineer. its been done by forum members before. can't remember who though.
 
I put 4x6 treated timbers running across my floor joists with a jackstand on each end to support the weight of my room. I did this under all my tanks. if my tanks were running parallel with my floor joists, i cut one 4x6 into 3 equal pieces and put them perpendicular to the floor joists and then put the long one underneath running parallel with the floor joists with jacks to support.
 
Here is my beam job, might give you some ideas.

I went the "better to be safe than sorry" route. My kids can also jump and play next to the tank and there is absolutely no bouncing of the floor.

mkh987.jpg
 
looks like you did a good job Bud8Fan
 
yeah, looks like a good route to go. you bracketed every joist to the beams it looks like?
 
Thanks and yes, I used "hurricane straps" to connect them to prevent the any laying over or twisting of the joists under load.

I have a bad habit of over doing things. :)
 
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