700 gallon build and fishroom revamp

bbortko

Polypterus
MFK Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Northwest, Indiana
Is mending that 10" back on definitely not a possibility?
+1. Many of the plywood tank builds I've seen utilize multiple layers of plywood with the seams staggered. I wouldn't expect there to be an issue so long as the seam have a support directly underneath them.
 

Quo Vadis

Gambusia
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2014
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Wisconsin
Well not on that piece of plywood for sure - I cut it down several inches at a time trying to figure out how long I could keep it and still get it down there. I could maybe cut another 4'x8' sheet into two 4'x4' halves and bring that down, and just use the one I chopped up already for some other project...

How do you go about patching it together? What would you do to make the seam strong enough?
I wasn't expecting to have to do that, so I haven't researched it. Part of the problem is that I don't know if the two sides that would be 96"x36" (one being the frame the glass would sit in) can fit down at that length either (they may, because part of the problem was that the ply was 48") so I would have to cut and then patch them as well.
 

Quo Vadis

Gambusia
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2014
912
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Wisconsin
Thanks! I looked at the thread but I am still not super clear on how to later/ patch the seam if I cut the plywood... Just lay another price on top and screw it down all over? Anyone have any insights?
 

bbortko

Polypterus
MFK Member
Mar 3, 2010
3,163
214
96
Northwest, Indiana
Just my opinion since I've never built a tank but lets say you have supports at 20" & 40" and are doing 2 layers. First layer would get cut so the seam is centered on the support at 20" and the second layer at the 40" support. I forget what your supports are but if they are 2x#s you can sister them so that the ends are completely on a support. For sealling I dont see why it would be any different than a corner.
 

Squirtle919

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Sep 5, 2011
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Within Earth
You can use cement sheeting to level out stands, I find it great as it comes in many thickness.

Or if your happy to ditch the cinder blocks and go with a welded frame, adjustable legs can be used, I did this on my 8x4x3 as my cement is also off, they work great & are pretty much solid galvanized steel 48mm thick so there is no issue with the weight the units I use come in various lengths for the thread which runs up 50x50 RHS so if your leg is 45cm high you try to get a 40cm unit, hard to explain for me but they have a thread going 40cm up so once welded into the RHS and leveled your legs are being supported by a lot of thread 35cm+, hopefully if one does every give way it wont get far. I say this as I have seen other adjustable legs that simply weld on or are screwed in and have maybe a 8-15cm thread that is 10-14mm thick which gives me the creeps personally but they seem to work also.

I hope this helps.
 

Quo Vadis

Gambusia
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2014
912
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Wisconsin
So I have been doing a lot of messing around to try to figure out the best way to go on from here after finding out that 4x8 sheet of plywood won't fit into my basement. I have considered just cutting the sheets of plywood in two and then patching them back together once they are back in the basement. The part that concerns me though is the side piece that will a be a wooden frame for glass. On that I can't use more plywood to cover the seam. Would a 2x6 or 2x8 be big/strong enough to patch between the two pieces on the frame side where the glass is?
 
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