That "tar like substance" had a very high lead content. If you get the idea you'd like to melt that stuff w/ a torch it's best done outside. The old school method when you ran into a slow leak was to mix a couple handfuls of dirt in the tank and swirl it around hoping the dirt would seal the leak. It almost never did.The original material is a tar like substance. You can pour very hot water into the tanks and it will sometimes reseal them. There are recipes to make the substance if you really want to go old school. The real value lies in the hoods/lights more then the tanks because they are often lost or broken - unless they are large tanks. Silicone as a direct replacement won't work so good because it won't form a good seal to the slate bottom. Most people get thick or tempered glass and make a new bottom and let the slate sit on that.
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Hey just point out this thread is over 8 years old. Not bad advise though.That "tar like substance" had a very high lead content. If you get the idea you'd like to melt that stuff w/ a torch it's best done outside. The old school method when you ran into a slow leak was to mix a couple handfuls of dirt in the tank and swirl it around hoping the dirt would seal the leak. It almost never did.
Better yet, replace the bottom slate and silicone the whole shooting match. If you decide to go that route I recommend not getting too OCD about it. The material that's been in there for 50 years is now very hard and if you start removing it you'll be at it for a long time. I'd just cut the sealant from the inside, replace the bottom pane and silicone the interior. Once that's done a dremel tool or a battery powered drill and some abrasive polish will get that stainless back up and looking good again. They sell a kit of three different cutting polishes at Home Depot.
Yes Sir. In my case it's ok for two reasons though...Hey just point out this thread is over 8 years old. Not bad advise though.