Water changes

screaminleeman

Jack Dempsey
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Nov 27, 2009
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Waste of water and it can shock the fish.
While this is 100% true, it can easily be taken out of context. Several variables should be weighed before it is concluded that water is actually being "wasted".
- The fish keepers should be acutely aware of the general water conditions in their local. If the fish keeper is in a generally drier area with less than average rainfall it is seriously immoral to even be in this hobby. (PERIOD!). You DON'T steal water from another Human Being's life and death needs because you like to keep fish. MOVE to an area with an adequate water supply on a normal basis!
- The seasonal drought condition and source of the water supply should be known.

I live in a rural area with above average precipitation. The water table is currently excellent in the county. My water comes from my personal well. I pay zero for water (except the electricity to pump it up from the well). In addition I have a spring fed farm pond with several 100 gallons per hour feed 24/7/365. Since 1979 the spring has NEVER ran dry in any drought condition faced in Central MD in that time span.

I drain my tanks directly into gardens and plant beds. The water from the change is actually being "recycled" to feed the plants.

I change my 30+ tanks at least 100% per week for 3/4 of the year as I have no good reason not to. I go easy in the Winter because I am a wuss that hates getting cold.
 

RD.

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Think of when you bring a new fish home,you don't just remove it from the bag and drop it into your tank...
Generally speaking, that's exactly what I do, as do many others who know how to properly acclimate a fish, including many large importers in this industry. You can read my comments about this in a previous discussion on this subject.

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/f...********s-acclimation-guide-just-dump-them-in


Large WC is stressful only if you do it infrequently allowing the tank water chemistry to drift away from tap water.
Exactly ........
 

piscavore pisces

Gambusia
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Nov 23, 2005
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I dump them in right away as long as temp is close. Better in my tank than in a small ass bag filled with the fishes own waste and amonia that's been building up.
 

viejafish

Plecostomus
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Jan 31, 2013
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I dump them in right away as long as temp is close. Better in my tank than in a small ass bag filled with the fishes own waste and amonia that's been building up.
I have the same philosophy that it is better in my tank earlier than any longer in the bag. If my hand feel a huge difference in temperature which rarely the case, I will alow 5 min temperature adjusting acclimination. If there is a huge difference in pH or hardness, a one or two hour acclimination will make a difference. You either don't buy the fish from the source, or you prepare your water to match the source ahead of time.
 

viejafish

Plecostomus
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What I really meant is that one or two hours acclimination will NOT make a difference if there is huge difference in pH or hardness. It can happen if you ship fish from remote sources, say from Texas to the northeast where the water chemistry is very different. Fish accliminate better if you can buy them locally with similar water chemistry.
 

RD.

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There's actually a sticky on this subject ......

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?5350-Acclimating-LARGE-Fish/


The only caveat that I would add to that info is, acclimation is generally only required when fish are going from a high pH and more importantly a high TDS, to a low TDS, which can cause osmotic shock. This is where the term "pH shock" comes from. It's not the pH that cause the shock, it's the sudden drop in TDS, which in turn causes cells in gills to burst as they take in too much water. Going from a lower TDS to a higher TDS causes dehydration, but is generally far less fatal. But in these situations the tank water for the new fish can be adjusted in advance, no need to run drip lines into bags, buckets, or otherwise.

That, and if there's a significant difference in water temps. Otherwise most fish are better off using the net and dump method. Even water temps are generally a non issue as going from a cold bag, to a warm tank, does not generally shock a fish. One really just wants to avoid a sudden drastic drop in temperature.
 

predatorkeeper87

Potamotrygon
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Sep 8, 2014
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When I was a kid and not yet into fish keeping I saw it done that way plenty of times and I suspect some old timers who haven't grown with the hobby still do_One fellow does that annually.
100% water changes infrequently is a different story. every 6 months or anually wouldnt be terrible on the fish I suppose, but its still senseless.
 

viejafish

Plecostomus
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pH shock alone can kill fish, not just TDS. I once over stocked a tank with Tang fish without buffering substrate. All the fish started to die off mysteriously. When I tested the water, the pH has dropped to 6 due to excessive waste loading and lacking buffer.


If you don't do WC for a long time, the TDS will continue to increase without limit even though the pH may only drop slightly if buffer is provided. If you do a large WC, then the fish may be subject to TDS shock which is essentially an osmotic pressure shock as if you were throwing salt water fish into fresh water..
 

RD.

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I'm not going to get into a debate about the science behind pH shock vs shock from TDS, I'm fully aware of what they are and are not. When acclimating new arrivals, generally speaking IF a fish goes into osmotic shock, and dies, it will be from a sudden swing in TDS values, not pH.

Osmoregulation has nothing to do with pH, and everything to do with controlling the balance of water/salt concentrations. pH has nothing to do with regards to if ones water is a hypertonic solution, hypotonic solution, or if it's isotonic. The shock part of the equation comes in when a fish has difficulty reaching equilibrium



Wenz ...... Excessive waste in a closed system creates acidity that can push pH values down. How much, and how quickly, depends on the alkalinity & buffering capacity (pH) of the water.
 
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