My experience with tank cycler (Turbostart)

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abortedsoul

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Sep 4, 2008
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MD, USA
I remember the weeks of painstaking waiting starting the nitrogen cycle for the first time on such a big tank. After my tank seemed balanced, I added my new ray and hoped for the best.

I somehow restarted the nitrogen cycle in my first stingray tank. The ammonia spikes began at .25 ppm after a big water change / partial media change, and I began to worry. I began daily 20% water changes, and the ammonia rose again to about .50 ppm. I implemented a 25% water change 2x/day schedule and began doing some research. What I found was amazing!

There is a product by a company called Fritz Pet called Turbostart. I had tried StressZyme (worthless, btw) and was rather skeptical, but the person I talked to on the phone seemed very confident and I had read quite a few positive reviews. I decided to order it, as I was fairly worried about my ray and tired of doing massive amounts of water changes.

A couple of days later I received a small brown package in the mail. It was in insulation and chilled, and the bottle was still very cold. I read the instructions, poured in the proper amount of fluid into the tank, and went about my business.

I ceased the water changes and continued checking the ammonia. The next morning (I had only put the Turbostart in the night before) the ammonia was reading somewhere a bit below .25 ppm. I was excited, but still rather skeptical. I fed my ray a bit more than I had been (as I was worried about ammonia and reduced the blackworms by about 50%) and watched. Later on that day I checked the ammonia and, to my surprise and endless joy, it was sitting firmly at .00 ppm.

I was so excited that I danced around the apartment, breathing a sigh of relief that a small aquatic member of my family was once again living in healthy water!

My advice to anyone with a similar problem, if it ever comes up (and I don't know how often that is, exactly), is to consider a product similar to this. I hear Biospira (which I was having difficulty obtaining) does something similar.

In short, don't by unrefrigerated "nitrifying" bacteria. You will be sorely disappointed. If you are having trouble getting your tank started, would like to start sooner rather than later, or your tank mysteriously starts the cycle over, consider using a refrigerated tank cycler.

Note: I will continue to monitor the ammonia levels. It has been stable for a few days, but any changes in the long term will be posted here.

turbo700.jpg
 
how much was it???? bio spira and seachem stabilty are all i use... proved themselves 1000x over with me...
 
Nic;2379192; said:
how much was it???? bio spira and seachem stabilty are all i use... proved themselves 1000x over with me...

The bottle I bought was $70 plus $15 for shipping. How much is biospira? (BTW, what is seachem? Is that an ammonia remover?)

UPDATE: It is day 4 on my Turbostart test run; I just tested the water and detected 1.0 ppm of Nitrites. Nitrates are trace, and there is no ammonia on the radar (even after relatively heavy feeding.)
 
Update. Day 12 of the Turbostart test run; ammonia is still at zero, and nitrates completely flatlined on day 9. Daily water testing indicates no change.

Note: Bioload was increased by adding one 10" Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) and the water parameters didn't budge. 5 tests were done over the following two days, two of which after heavy feeding. No change.
 
abortedsoul;2413256; said:
Update. Day 12 of the Turbostart test run; ammonia is still at zero, and nitrates completely flatlined on day 9. Daily water testing indicates no change.

Note: Bioload was increased by adding one 10" Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) and the water parameters didn't budge. 5 tests were done over the following two days, two of which after heavy feeding. No change.



you mean nitrites are flatlined???
 
this product is kinda expensive man.

i prefer to go to lfs and get some biomedia or sponge filters to help a new tank cycle
 
I am paraniod and this is how I start my new ray tanks.

2 days. Clean tank with warm water, a sponge and bicarbonate soda. Add water. Add anti parasite, fungus medication and run filtration to kill any nasties esp if you are getting a second hand tank wiped out by disease.

1 day. Do a 100% WC and add anti chlorine/chloramine, and active carbon (after rinsing with hot water). A few hours later, add bacteria in the form of water from your old (cycled and healthy) tank, old slum media, old filter wool etc.

4 days. Make sure water is well aerated, warm and has a high flow rate, and allow for the natural ammonia spike, depending on conditions as the bacteria reaches equlibrium. It should turn from cloudy to crystal clear.

1 Day. Test for PH and adjust accordingly.(Maybe high if you are using new media.) Add small cheap sensitive fish like barbs to test the water and observe. Plants would be great.

2 Days. Add your favoured water conditoners and minerals. If the barbs are healthy and PH stable, risk your cheapest ray 2 days later, and add a new ray every day as your system slowly adjust to the increasing bioload.

I would remove the activated carbon in this period as water conditioners are added as they maybe loaded with toxins and absorb the good stuff too. Once overloaded, everything may be released.

Do the standad PH/KH/GH/No2/3 test every few days to make sure water is stable.

Always keep your old tank still running 2 for weeks if possible in case of any unforseen diasters and you need to transfer the rays back.
 
here is how i cycle a tank... fill with water and turn on filter... add something to rot...no waterchanges on top off as needed.... 2 weeks later 50% water change add fish..dose daily or just dump a whole bottle of stability in there... 1 week later 50% water change add stingray.... no crying involved no test kits just simple... dont this for quite a few tanks and rays now and havent had a problem....
 
lincolngoh;2414404; said:
Always keep your old tank still running 2 for weeks if possible in case of any unforseen diasters and you need to transfer the rays back.

That was really thorough, and there were some really good tips in there! I haven't tested anything like that myself, but I think I will use a lot of that for my new tank!
 
Nic;2414935; said:
here is how i cycle a tank... fill with water and turn on filter... add something to rot...no waterchanges on top off as needed.... 2 weeks later 50% water change add fish..dose daily or just dump a whole bottle of stability in there... 1 week later 50% water change add stingray.... no crying involved no test kits just simple... dont this for quite a few tanks and rays now and havent had a problem....

Short and sweet. It seems a bit... unpredictable? I might just have a stingray version of "new parents disease" where parents try to keep their new baby's living space like, crazy sterile. Those people creep me out, constantly worrying about their baby so much. Not that children aren't precious, especially to the parents, but there is a point where it might do more harm then good- not to mention waste an incredible amount of time and energy.

I hope to strike a good, healthy balance with my rays. You say it has worked for quite a few tanks; does it work for ponds, too?

Edit: what is the "something" you add to rot? Food? A dead fish?
 
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