can u list all the pros/cons of various filters/systems? Welcome all to comment

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

sushiray

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
May 11, 2009
628
4
0
new windsor/cormwall, ny
if you can include avg. initial purchase price ranges, cost of media replacement, cost of replacing other stuff/parts, ease of maintenance, issues/disappointments, etc. in your choice/option

add your choices if you want, comment on all or some, duplicate/add to others comments. the more frequency we see similar comments pros/cons the better feel we all can get on general experiences.

I think this will be helpful to many. Your experience will be valuable to others.
of course opinions will abound & welcomed but let's keep it friendly, no attacking other members opinions. it is what it is.

thks all



1. AC's - $23-$80
A) Pros - performance/water flow, reasonable initial cost, self priming - no pumping, ease to remove & clean, media lasts long time, quiet operation espec. if water level is hi enough

B) Cons - need 2 for tanks > 55gal (but that holds true for all types of filters), intake tube not long enough (AC110/70's comes with 2 tubes but still not long enough for larger tanks to reach the bottom), can be noisy if water level is too low, & air pockets can develop in elbow of intake tube if water level is not hi enough

2. penguins
A) Pros

B) Cons

3. emperors
A) Pros

B) Cons

4. eheim canister
A) Pros

B) Cons - expensive

5. fluval canister
A) Pros

B) Cons - expensive, crud accumulates in intake/return coiled tubes - backwashes upon priming/pumping, so duh - have to clean the tubes!, parts can break easier

6. sumps
A) Pros

B) Cons

7. UWG
A) Pros

B) Cons - to remove all crud must disrupt gravel/plant set up

8. sponge filters
A) Pros - great media for BB

B) Cons - not strong enough for larger tanks

9. box filters
A) Pros

B) Cons - not so efficient, can't catch heavy debris on bottom, not enough water flow, even for 2.5-5g tanks
 
Sumps
Pros:
Easy to clean for some designs
Best Bio filter(aside from fluid beds)
If you have an overflow it skims the surface
Returns can be made to use like a power head, creating flow.
You can put some equipment like heaters in there.
Allows huge bio loads.
Cons:
Water evaporates very quickly.
Check Valves aren't always good enough to stop back flow durring power outages and if the sump isnt large enough to hold water up to the overflow, your gonna have a fun time mopping.
Some designs take more work to clean than other filters do.
May not fit certain stands or may require a steel stand to use in some circumstances.
Requires drilling of holes in the tank or one of those crappy hang on back overflow units.
Will leak or potentially flood the house if you don't design it correctly (piping, etc)
 
:popcorn:Are you writing a book or building a sticky? Your list is certainly not inclusive of all options. What is your goal ?
 
DiY sump

Pros: Cost effective to build, fun to work on. Huge bio filter, ability to hide heater(s). Maintenance is usually pretty easy. can be built specifically to your needs. Do not see evaporation in the tank, only the sump. Buying bulk mechanical filter media makes maintenance cheap. Greater water volume than that actual tank, can be more stable.

Cons: Depending on style of overflow, may not pick up crap from the bottom of the tank. As stated, much easier to have an "accident" in the house.
 
sushiray;3882431; said:
1. AC's - $23-$80
A) Pros - performance/water flow, reasonable initial cost, self priming - no pumping, ease to remove & clean, media lasts long time, quiet operation espec. if water level is hi enough

B) Cons - need 2 for tanks > 55gal (but that holds true for all types of filters), intake tube not long enough (AC110/70's comes with 2 tubes but still not long enough for larger tanks to reach the bottom), can be noisy if water level is too low, & air pockets can develop in elbow of intake tube if water level is not hi enough


whoever told you that you need 2 ac110s for a 55g was lying to you. or maybe just trying to get you to spend more money. a single AC110 is more than enough to filter a 55+ tank.while a second filter can be beneficial, it is absolutely not "needed".

as far as your other "cons", those have absolutely nothing to do with the filter itself.

the noise of the "waterfall" (or even a spraybar if you let the water evaporate enough) is the same for any HOB filter. it is the owners job to keep the water level in the tank at the right height.

the intake length (with the second tube) is more than large enough for even 6' + tanks. on a 125g the AC110 (w/ both intake tubes) will go about 3/4 of the way to the bottom of a bare bottom tank. if you have substrate, add another 1-3".
there is really no need for the intake to go further down than that. but if for some reason you wanted the intake to go all the way to the bottom (or even to the bottom, and then across the tank), the AC110/70 uses a 3/4" pipe. you can buy 10' of 3/4" PVC at home depot for $2, and you can custom plumb the filter any way you like (see the link in my sig).

this is not an option with other HOB filters that use a ridiculous rectangle shaped intake. so you can add customization to you list of "pros". ;)

slapnutz;3883645; said:
DiY sump

Pros: Cost effective to build, fun to work on. Huge bio filter, ability to hide heater(s). Maintenance is usually pretty easy. can be built specifically to your needs. Do not see evaporation in the tank, only the sump. Buying bulk mechanical filter media makes maintenance cheap. Greater water volume than that actual tank, can be more stable.

Cons: Depending on style of overflow, may not pick up crap from the bottom of the tank. As stated, much easier to have an "accident" in the house.

indeed :)
 
bitteraspects;3884501; said:
whoever told you that you need 2 ac110s for a 55g was lying to you. or maybe just trying to get you to spend more money. a single AC110 is more than enough to filter a 55+ tank.while a second filter can be beneficial, it is absolutely not "needed".

as far as your other "cons", those have absolutely nothing to do with the filter itself.

the noise of the "waterfall" (or even a spraybar if you let the water evaporate enough) is the same for any HOB filter. it is the owners job to keep the water level in the tank at the right height.

the intake length (with the second tube) is more than large enough for even 6' + tanks. on a 125g the AC110 (w/ both intake tubes) will go about 3/4 of the way to the bottom of a bare bottom tank. if you have substrate, add another 1-3".
there is really no need for the intake to go further down than that. but if for some reason you wanted the intake to go all the way to the bottom (or even to the bottom, and then across the tank), the AC110/70 uses a 3/4" pipe. you can buy 10' of 3/4" PVC at home depot for $2, and you can custom plumb the filter any way you like (see the link in my sig).

this is not an option with other HOB filters that use a ridiculous rectangle shaped intake. so you can add customization to you list of "pros". ;)



indeed :)

thks for your reply. no one told me I needed 2 AC110's to run on 55g or bigger tanks. that was my based on my experience with my 72g bow so I highly recommended it. unless one's tank has lite bio load.

but reason being, with heavier loads like my discus tank, their poop is heavy so will never reach the midlevel intake tubes. that's why my step dad helped me DIY one unit to extend to the bare bottom & furthermore into a tee for a double inlet. otherwise, I must resort to vacuuming more often than not.

now I only vac when I do w/c. my filter media/floss in both units is clearly doing a great job - midlevel particulates & bottom pooper scoopers!

& with my 20g using ac70 & carbon my tank is crystal clear, but alas w/o extending to the bottom again, the pleco poop can't be sucked up. tho waterflow is very strong not enough to clear out pleco poop. so I do need to vac when doing w/c.

so this is just from experience, others I am sure may have differing experiences but going with mine, I would still recommend ac's & double ones at that for larger tanks.

the pros & cons I asked for can represent anything related to running the filters with directly related or indirect/intangibles.

you are right with other HOB's shapes of their intakers.

thks to all for their feedback. keep it coming!

btw - this is not a debate. experience counts for sharing!
 
I know it's commonly considered a "con" for Eheims as to the cost, but considering that they typically run for many years w/o trouble, can use relatively inexpensive media, and can go several weeks between changes, I think they are well worth the up-front cost . . . and they are very quiet, and power-efficient
 
dawnmarie;3882754;3882754 said:
:popcorn:Are you writing a book or building a sticky? Your list is certainly not inclusive of all options. What is your goal ?
Hey Sushiray,My question is neither rhetorical nor disruptive.

7. UWG
A) Pros

B) Cons - to remove all crud must disrupt gravel/plant set up
Are you by chance referring to a "UGF/RUGF" ? If so I could share my unpopular minority "opinion".

sushiray;3907615;3907615 said:
btw - this is not a debate. experience counts for sharing!
OK , I get it it's not a debate, so what is it?
 
dawnmarie;3910801; said:
Hey Sushiray,My question is neither rhetorical nor disruptive.

Are you by chance referring to a "UGF/RUGF" ? If so I could share my unpopular minority "opinion".

OK , I get it it's not a debate, so what is it?

IDK - maybe share your experience of your good & the bad with your filtering?
 
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