Plywood monster (sorta) tank advice needed.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

MilitantPotato

Candiru
MFK Member
Jul 19, 2006
722
2
48
Missouri, USA
Everyone hates long posts, so I'll TRY and keep her short.
The tank will be 7x4x2.5 feet, .75" plywood built on [B]this design[/B] but smaller.


#1: I like the idea of using starphire (still more than open on other ideas,) but I read somewhere that they don't do 5/8ths anymore and laminated defeats the purpose (someone tell me they make 5/8ths still!)

I'm pretty set on 5/8ths glass and it's safety factor, so my next question is type.
If starphire is out, do I go tempered or regular?
Since wood likes to flex, I'm assuming tempered glass wouldn't be a good idea, am I right here?

Anyone in love with the idea of acrylic on a plywood tank?


#2: What's the most tried and true way of lining?
Fiberglass and epoxy resin coated with epoxy paint, seems to be frequently used, but I worry about the paint cracking as the wood expands and contracts as water is put in and drained over time.

Has anyone heard of, or used Sanitred?
I read (at this link) that it's one of the best to use if coated with epoxy to prevent UV damage, anyone familiar with this stuff?


#3: What brand of pump do you guys recommend for low noise and that does serious numbers (1800gph+)?


I'll take any advice you all might have, on any of my questions or anyt experiances with building a tank. Thanks in advance.
 
You don't put epoxy on Sanitred.

http://www.sanitred.com/WaterFountain.htm

Sanitred is flexible and epoxy would crack and flake off.

This stuff cures at and thickness and bonds to itself so you can do things in stages.

I've got to contact them, We may be able to seal in the glass windows (by sanding or sandblasting the edges) with this too.

This stuff rocks.

Dr Joe

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Thanks Dr. Joe, I'm almost set on using sanitred. I've got a couple questions to ask the company myself.

I'm curious how to seal the glass to the plywood like you mentioned.
Also, the the tank will be constructed so it's able to be taken down into 5 sections (walls) so I can transport it as we move, so I think I'd need to silicon the edges to seal it up.

Hmm, if it bonds to itself even if cured, maybe I could cut the seams and add more to the seams when I re-assemble it...?
 
I used 3/4" for the box and 1" for the front so I could route an edge to set the glass into. I sanded the glass 1" around the edge surface (they suggest sandblasting and so do I now) Then used silicone to seal the glass in. Let it cure conpletely (I waited 2 wks to be sure). Then sealed over the wood and onto the glass with the sanitred filling in any gaps. Then did the rest of the inside and no problem with sealing to itself.

Sure you could cut the seams to break down the box but some will seep into the seam and it could be a little difficult to pull apart. And when you pack it up to move don't let the sanitred surfaces touch as they could stick.

Good luck.

Dr Joe

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Thanks Joe, ya really helped me out.

Do you know if the sanitred would bond to the plastic tarps used to protect carpet when painting? So I wouldn't risk them sticking when being moved.
 
Dr. Joe,

Can you post some pics?

Also, what products did you use? On the website it has LRB, TAV and Permaflex... I was wondering if you had to use all three or just one product.

Thanks!

Keith
 
i have built 11 plywood tanks over the years i have always used fiberglass &epoxy resin and have never had one fail the first tank i built is still going strong 18years later
 
if you use fiberglass and epoxy resin no need to use epoxy paint but if you use polyester resin you needto use epoxy paint as poly is not 100% waterproof:WHOA: :WHOA:
 
will-kib1;545270; said:
i have built 11 plywood tanks over the years i have always used fiberglass &epoxy resin and have never had one fail the first tank i built is still going strong 18years later
Did you use mesh in corners only or did you fiberglass the whole tank?
 
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